nzkaosnz

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About nzkaosnz

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  1. also - there is bugger all space left once all parts are in.... http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/nzkaosnz/eg33/Update%203/ http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/nzkaosnz/eg33/Update%204/ http://s125.photobucket.com/albums/p79/nzkaosnz/eg33/Update%205/
  2. hahaha DRFVDR - Sounds like we shoulda worked together. I started with an Incomplete EG33, and put it together with a Megasquirt ecu. Got it running - but it wouldnt rev nicely - spent ages tearing hair out - with no idea where issues were coming from... Megasquirt is homebuilt - so possible dodgy point Own wiring Engine was unknown origin. If i had started with a complete - known going engine/ecu setup (e.g. whole SVX) - would have been sweet. radiator - a "rotary radiator" works well... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=355420571 Fits between headlights, under radiator support panel. Exhaust - never had issues with crossmember? I did start with a NA chassis - so already had cutouts for headers. Powersteering pump was a bit funky- had to trim bonnet to clear. Also got stuck on the "making it turbo" bit - the twin throttle bodies make it a lil tricky. And on top of this - another project popped up (v3 sti - current hack) - so this went on backburner.
  3. i THINK 250T and GT share crossmember. 250T exhaust follows the same path as a single turbo one (comes up past drivers side head then back down)
  4. thats me. to give you an idea, im about to scrap the body/motor minus a few parts (seats/alarm/speakers), and would be getting $300 for it. So if you are interested in picking up a CHEAP part project. with a lot of the thinking done, flick us a text. o21 742 7o5 Also reg is still live on the car. Hell, if your in auckland near syliva park, and want to pop past and have a look, you can have a squizz at what ive got here/what obstacles you need to get past. Youd probably still want to pick up a whole Svx to scrap for the motor/ecu to get going...
  5. hmmm. try replacing TPS If its intermittant, then it may behave perfectly for a scope. I did that on mine, then took to the old one with dremel, cutting top off. Turned out the copper track had corroded off the PCB. Also, do you have an AFM?
  6. I have a set of aftermarket tuned/equal length NA EJ20 Headers available.... Made a fair difference (suit stock sump, bolts up to std mid pipe) Mt wellington, akl.
  7. there is a reason and place for ACC. New Zealand has the ACC to pay for all accidental injuries, be it through work, sport, or other random stuff. This then limits liability claims/suing for neglect etc. If you injure yourself in america, your health insurance pays for you to get repaired. Your health insurance then sues the people that may have had something to do with your injury, claiming that it was "their neglect/fault" which directly caused your incident, therefore they have to pay - to claim their money back *enter courtroom/long drawn out case* The success of the suing came down to who had the biggest lawyers etc. Same with sports accidents, if we had that, then no-one would run a track day, as if a person spun a car into a wall, they would sue you for not taking all proper steps to stop that from happening, and would sue the track for putting a wall there. Same with ski-fields, same with kids rugby etc In NZ, you hurt yourself, ACC pays. ACC then gets OSH onto the accident site/workplace, and OSH make the call as to whether there was a safety hazard that was un-notified/protected etc, and then either require the company to make changes (a foward thinking approach) and/or fine the company for continued neglect - this frees up the courts, and limits the "woman sues mcdonalds for providing a hot coffee she spilt on herself" retardedness. Dont look at this as me being a tree-huggy acc fan, hell, i have 3 cars to try and register/insure, my 2003 Commodore auto v6 (nana spec -only winder windows in the back) due to the engine size is a "hi capacity-high performance car" that costs as much as a v5 sti type R coupe to fully insure As an engineer, we have a lot to do to appease the OSH regulations, to the point of retardedness. I.E. everything we design has to be "suicidial idiot proof". The OSH inspector has an "ISO finger" on a stick that he basically tries to get stuck. So yea, acc rises suck, but acc is a necessary evil.
  8. anyone else see the weight saving feature -unbolt rear wiper blade but leave motor?
  9. hmmm. my problem is i keep breaking the little metal strap that holds them together... also, has anyone got pics of how they wrapped the bit around the bend on true equal length headers?
  10. Look for pics of any mid-mount ej20 - either fwd box, or 4wd box, welded centre, capped rear output. (e.g. Crowesport justy, some mad Imp at hampton downs etc) Measure up the available distance in front of the honda's front wheels and check against any subaru - biggest project stopper
  11. but one needs to strip the caliper back (remove pistons etc)
  12. random qn... are you sure it hasnt got a bigass airlock? What i would do (and its cheap).... Buy a new radiator cap. Park the car on a steep a hill you can find near a tap - nose in the air Undo radiator cap (when cold) Start car, and leave idling with cap off. Keep going between the radiator cap and the dash, checking that water level ok, topping up as needed, and checking that dash temp ok. Old school method says to turn inside heater onto full heating, someone told me this not needed, but hell, do it anyway. continue this until it comes up to temperature (dash needle moves, and top hose feels the same temp as the warm hose (carefully reach down and grab bottom hose). if you do this periodically from cold, youll notice that the top hose warms up first, then eventually the bottom hose warms up (thermostat opens) once car up to temperature (fans also should kick in as an indication - AC should be off), pop the NEW radiator cap on, and check that your overflow bottle is up to full mark/over. Turn car off, and once cold, just check theres enough in the overflow bottle. Occasionally, the overheating can be due to airlocks/dodgy radiator caps, and a proper bleed can sort a lot of issues. Some haters may argue against this... but hell. Whats it going to cost you? And its solved my "damn my new headgasket has blown" issue once. Heater core... cant see how this could really affect it much? A bunch of people in race cars block the heater pipes off with no ill-effects.
  13. All the ISO9001 thingy means is that they have written down how they do stuff, so whoever comes to work there carries on following instructions - even if he has only started there. In theory its ment to prove that they have set quality procedures that they follow. Was a huge "buzz" word a while back in manufacturing, now its all "Lean Manufacturing"