nzkaosnz
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Posts posted by nzkaosnz
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hmmm. id say it would have to be 03ish, based on the ones iv tinkered with
Subaru svx has two crank sensors, along w cam.
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later being what year?
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6/7 pattern. all subarus the same until the ez's
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Im doing stuff a little differently - wasted spark, oldschool idle control. And wanting to add blowers as well.
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nice I still having a bastard of a time with this megasquirt. So close to going and getting a link g4+.
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so how much cutting?
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doesnt mean that you havnt thought about putting one in your car all about the periperal vision.
They also beep.
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or who have no synchro's
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I just used duct tape to secure for race
I was going to try and mend current one - but haveing issues getting the screws off. Currently soaking in wd40
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Had same wobble, see myself when boost, see nothing when braking.
Put early impreza one onto a V3 sti ($18 thanks pickapart)
Shape is slightly different - and different optics (seems more 'zoomed in') my guess is that its flat, where the v3 was slightly curved.
Bolted straight up, and plugged straight in. The only problem, is that you loose the power-retract. (diff between 2-3 wire ones)
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or to disable screen when car moving.
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commodore.
2.5L like headgaskets, and chew gas worse than a TT Manual being raped (i know - had a 250T while GT died)
3.0L if you could get one.
But for say $8k - you would struggle to get something newer than 01? Same money in a commodore will get you 03/04. Open road trips - commodore uses SFA gas (8l/100k - what iv got, not overly trying)
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revolution racegear can get them.
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funny story... was talking to a saffir recently about getting into cars...
He was in j'burg, and accidently locked keys in car. looks round, sees a random guy walking past - asks if the guy knows how to to get into cars. guy gives a shrug, so he offers him $20 if he can get his keys out. guy reaches into pocket, pulls out a slimjim, and opens car in less than 10sec
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hotwirings all good - but still wont get you past steering lock. Did you loose key or sumthing? i broke my key at pickapart th other day - got a mate to run me to the mall with the two halves of th key, then jst got another cut from that.
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i read somewhere that dowelling the two halves together was one way of preventing BEB... wonder if thats related to ^^^^^
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i thought oil vapour reduced effective octane level?
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often with pin, theres something funny like the door needs to be kept open. (really sux when raining)
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4k for me... (doing own labour)
surface, bore, hone, dip clean $4-500? (got ripped a little)
crank linish $ 50ish
Gasket set $500
Main Bearings $200
bigend Bearings $200
Rings $250
All new cambelt stuff $300
also had lightened/balanced - HIGHLY recommend that. $150
Replaced rods with forged $500
then new fluids/filters/3bond/assembly lube/coppercote/weird tools (24mm deep socket/16(?) allen key
and chasing electrical gremins (new tps/afm/ICV) $700ish
IIRC - most places charged around 4k for a standard rebuild, reusing rods/pistons, based on you giving them a long block, they giving a longblock back. est about 6-8k for a standard 'strong' build (so closed deck block, forged internals), and 10k upwards for a monster (anything special). probably add another 1k for someone to pull motor out, strip (send off) then reinstall fresh motor
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err - why do you need a new flywheel? generally they just surface them.
I would say to email the guys at wingers r.e fitment ([email protected]) or try pming ichiban or hopai.
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interestingly enough - the restrictor pill actually increases boost
depends on how the boost tap is set up.... possibly try a manual/electronic boost controller if you can get one.
def try another boost gauge before getting drastic...
could VERY carefully try freeboosting (with a mate yelling at you the minute you start hitting high boost) to just check that that parts all set up sweet.
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hahhaha
i would say those guys would have a heart attack when seeing the state of my cars paintwork then...
good work tho - have done car detailing for a while (prepping ex-rental vehicles for sale) and its a crap load of elbow grease.
wheres the picture of clint after the grasskana?
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stock boost controller could be jammed/broken etc. 7psi is wastegate pressure.
Look for an EBC somewhere - and throw that onto it.
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KELTIK's DIY thread
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
and finally - adjustable wrench or a G Clamp often do a better job than a brake handle