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sl8r

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Posts posted by sl8r

  1. 18 hours ago, Jono24 said:

    In my car I have a pressure sensor in place of the factory pressure switch connected to the link. It is running limits on minimum oil pressures to protect the engine (Thanks @gotasuby!).

     

    At the track day my oil pressure limits kicked in doing what they were supposed too, but I was wondering how many others log oil pressure at track days and found something out of line?

     

    Mine was hitting 38 psi @ 3400rpm and 48 psi @ 6000rpm, I think factory minimums are 43psi @ 5000rpm. Water temp didn't go above 95C and I was running Castrol Edge 5w-40SN.

     

    (side note, I'm going to try some ACEA A3/B4 spec oil next oil change, and maybe some ACEA E7-9 diesel oil after that. A3/B4 apparently has a better shear spec, and the diesel stuff forgos the fuel efficiency additives for better shear/durability while meeting the A3/B4 specs, this is probably splitting hairs but still interesting)

     

    Mine. my GP limits were the only reason my engine did not go nuclear (totally worth the investment). I got down as low as 25psi on a corner - was super frustrating at the time travelling two hours to track for a 1 lap limp. My issue was mainly that when the engine was rebuilt the mechanic didn't think it still needed the windage tray. But I log and review after each run... IMO 5 minutes of checking totally worth it. see my build thread I think there is a post with my revised oil pressure maps.

    • Like 2
  2. I blew my motor on Pepsi? (cant remember but its the last corner before the straight) because the breathers filled my catch can and starved the engine. I was on road tyres and not going hard. As Sam has said recirculating the oil back to the sump is a good way to combat the starve but it didn't fully work for me.

     

    My current setup (which took a lot of years to get right) includes full baffled sump, two catch cans piped from opposite ends the heads so the oil is fighting the wrong way to get to each can. Irrigation blocker as mentioned above and a pipe from one head to another. 

    This is of course a little hardcore setup for the occasional track day, but be aware of the catch can is all I can say. I would also recommend a baffled sump (especially if you doing more than one event)... a relatively small cost compared to a new engine.

     

    • Like 3
  3. my original one was about $1000 (i think.... it was a long time ago.) that gets you an enlarged baffled sump... basically a modified standard one. is not gated well mine wasnt originally. As i said i got mine ages ago so they may do it differently now. have a chat to them Al is pretty helpful.

    i run a mocal oil cooler.... again do not skimp on these either.

  4. I run a modified Macbilt sump... i.e. mine has been substantially modified over their off the shelf unit. one thing to be mindful of is headers and them fouling on the sump if you go enlarged which is highly recommended. Sumps are one of those do not skimp areas as you will pay big if you get a lesser one. Oh and remember to put your windage tray back in too lol

  5. personally i would never get an up-pipe with a flexi. Ive seen a flexi get hot and deteriorate and blow chunks through a turbo. This was an after market setup (aka maybe hotter temps than stock) but wouldnt want to take the chance.

  6. I ran a sard fpr that I thought was legit turned outit wasn\'t and the top one day fell off. Luckily the car wasnt going and we noticed it.

    My opinion and I have learnt this the hard way over years of modding my car is to buy genuine once else buy Chinese then buy genuine.

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