caspros

ooo, Speedtech. Got it.

Where are you based ? That seems mighty steep, though I have no idea on the price of the manifold and front pipe. What's the individual pricing for those ? In fact, what's the cost break down for all the parts/ labour ?

How far West are you ? If you really want it fixed I can get one of my guy's around to tell you what's doing it. Just let me know.

It's not Cisco quality, but it's a darn sight better than DSE

did i miss something or... go buy something with cisco in it and i bet your issues come right. Its likely to be the wireless channels as said above and the crappy routers just dont cope with. fork and get some good gear. Its like saying.. Im putting crappy 91 in my car and its running like a sack.. you know why Except : "so I got a Netgear Rangemax router"

"I suppose I could go find a wireless hotspot and try it there too??" Absolutely, good idea. I suspect you'll find the same problem, but I'd definitely try it.

So has it always done it ? It's an interruption of the wireless signal for sure, whether interference, or, something up with the laptop's mPCI card ( either hardware or software fault ) There is a few ways to check which it is, but simple ones are as suggested, different laptop, which should isolate the AP as a problem, though, not all laptop wireless cards are the same, so may not be 100% accurate, but it's a start. That would be my first step.

I'm guessing that you also have security on it ? WPA or the like ? Has it happened ever since you got the laptop ? And last, but not least, does it happen continuously, like throughout the day, or like once every three days etc ? I'm assuming your cordless phone isn't beside the AP also.

What it drops out, is it just the wireless signal ? Does it happen if you're sitting right beside it, or just anywhere in the house ?

1998 WRX STI RA Edit: Sorry, should put in the mods. Vf22, decapped injectors, FMIC, and Link G4

I'm actually having the bearings done on my GC8 at the moment ( this was the cause of my required pedal double pump I posted earlier ). The car's only done 54,000km, doesn't run slicks, doesn't seem to have massive camber. I'm not 100% sure what they're replacing it with, but MacBilt are putting in new bearings, and machining something, I'm not sure. Anyway, they said it is notoriously common with GC8's, and that they use "insert whatever I'm getting on my car" on their race cars, and will last a lot longer. For reference, here is what it cost : "The bearings were 333.60,seals 72.00,machining 348.00,second hand drive flange 75.00 grease ,tolls and freight 27.50 ,labour to strip rebuild hubs and refit 276.25 plus gst"

Heyyy, that's a really good idea ! Will try to do that this week. Thanks !

Coincidentally, on the weekend I decapped some yellow top 440cc I bought of trade me for $160 for fun. Just got back a minute ago from having them flow tested. Unfortunately rather than going out to the Hutt to get them tested by my tuner, I got them done just around the corner from my work. I'm trying to work out how he tested them, as the figures I've got aren't in cc. However, they are all flowing evenly, at 220 something. Once I figure out the real conversion, I'll let you know the cc increase. The tuner has said the only problem ( apart from increase fuel usage ) will be, over a long time, possible pitting on the cylinder wall ?? But this is over 5-10years.

Is there an easy way to test for this play in hub ? (<---novice) Take off the wheel and try and wobble it ???

Damn, so it actually sounds pretty serious. I guess that's no racing for me then. Stink.

Hmm, nope the pedal doesn't creep to the floor. And, ha ha, imagine that. 200km/hr, handbrake on. It could be the piston sticking, not sure how to check for that. A smart man said it could also be a wheel bearing, which could've knocked the pads out.

Hi All, Ok, so before the last track day, fitted new pads, new fluid, etc, and brakes were working fine. For some reason, recently, I have to pump them once before they'll grab properly like in their former glory. Today we re-bled all the brakes, filled with MBF600, and still, the same problem. They're Subaru 4 pots on the front, 1 pot's on the back. Please note, this is a recent thing. I am planning on going in the winter series this Sunday, but I can't really drive it like it is. Thanks for your help.

Sorry, V5 STI RA. I'm guessing as it's STI it is forged internals.

VF22 + FMIC + 3" exhaust + Link G4.

Yep, at the wheels. I'll put up the dyno plot as soon as I get a copy of it. Actually I've got a before tune and after tune plot.

Yesterday my 1998 STI got 224kw, 1950Nm on yellow 440cc @ 17psi. The injectors wouldn't do more than that, and were the restricting factor.

With quite a few cars being stolen recently, I for one would be curious to know what kind of alarms these people had, so we can know what to avoid. While it may also be the case that people don't want to admit they didn't have alarms, maybe this kind of admission/poll can be done anonymously ( not implying at all the original poster had/didn't have an alarm )

Strangely enough, re-attached the earth, hit the big red button for on, and started the car, off, on, hand brake down, turbo timer off, on, and yeah, no problems at all. So I would suspect you're all right, the turbo timer is playing silly buggers.

Right, well I'll go out and give her another go this morning. Luckily it does have a proper kill switch, it was the only way I could switch off the car yesterday !