johnny5
-
Posts
3,232 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by johnny5
-
-
got ya I see your asking about 20p wheels guessing they should fit mine thenThat's why you go with a lower offset.. takes away the need for a spacer. eg if you have a wheel with 30p offset and you use a 5mm spacer, then get a wheel with a 25p offset. Same effect, no need for a spacer.
-
so basically go with the size stated i read someone posted that I will need a 5mm spacer for the front dont like spacers are they even legal?
-
The look I wanna achieve is the 2nd car down it looks the part imo
the 8.5 wide wheels look like my volk TE37s that are on my car already
Yeah, just need some low offset and some stretched rubber. Not overly stretched mind you, just a little.
what do I need to achieve this look Scooby gonna sell the TE's if I can make my car look like this ie wheels size and fitment issues blah blah blah any ideas
-
awesome cant wait to see itgot it back from tuners at 11psi running 220kw on the dyno at run in....tuners said once i come back after run in im looking at 260kw at 19-21psi....and they added that E85 fuel will take it to about the 300kw mark.
It was wet when i drove it back home,so as soon as it hit boost i lost the rear end each time ;D...cant wait for the dry to see if it still bakes it up at 11psi, cause that will meen 20psi will be uncontrollable so ill have to convert back to AWD to get traction...as most of you knew anyway lol
-
-
price please on some Rota Grids 18 *9.5 pcd 5*100 with an offset that will clear brembos without the need for spacers I have a 2000 version 7 WRX STI
-
change my springs for the 3rd time just waiting on my exhaust thats on order from redline
-
that makes my wheels the 17 by 8 44p always thought they were 7.5
and the ce28s for sale wil definately fit
-
I have the 17x7.5 te37s but there is an 8 or 8.5 that will fit in te37s ce28's there is some for sale on trademe and in the for sale section in here that will fit as well i thinkStock offset for Spec C is +53. Good luck finding an aftermarket wheel 5x100 with that offset that clears the Brembos. Rays have charts on their website which indicate which offsets in which model will clear the STi Brembos.
Not sure, but I'm assuming that sold-to-public Spec C numbers reflect the homologation requirements put out by the FIA for that year.
/quote]
Thanks for that Simon,
Will check out the charts on the Rays site.
Kind of lost me with the sold to public/homologation bit, not yet very familiar with these terms.
But thanks all the same!
http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,20823.0.html
-
-
yea its one option but that dude is hard to get work done me and him have been trying to get things done for a while jus conflicting schedules so I'm gonna get all the parts on and then hopefully catch him to do it the other option I looked at was E&H motors for the tuning
-
yea will see how it goes either way just need it before i put the exhaust on I got ordered at redline going to 3 inch is bound to make the boost go up so keeping it under 20 is sensible for longevity reasons for now
-
yeah might take those out and see how it goes as well heard it makes it spongy though
-
trying to bring it down from 21 to 19 or 18 i reckon only cost me 50 bux if it dont work will go to the e boost2 or the hdi ebc
-
-
yea no worries alex will drop you a line thought atomic would have been ok I like to use turbosmart for quality more than anythingyep.tru and use new vac hoses to.i found heaps of mine were split or leaking from little holes.andddd looks nicer haha
let me know how the turbosmart tee is.the atomic on i used was crap.
-
shot bro..... It would be great if you could plumb the boost tee bleed ports back in to the intake.... is this possible if so how do you recommend to do it
-
-
im gonna put a turbo smart bosst tee in to my version 7 i know its been covered before but just a few tips would be cool... do i keep the brass pill in the line or remove it? the stock lines look a little thin what size sillicone hose is recommended? how would you suggest to block the hole on the inlet after i remove it? and do i remove both hoses off the standard solenoid or just 1 if so which 1 there is 1 coming in side on and the 1 at a right angle underneath? and do i unplug the solenoid or just leave it plugged in ? thanks heaps for the tips people
-
thats cool fun
-
not looking for the KW but for engine safety and you guys hit it on the head was looking at the rail the other day and it looks like no 3 could potentially starve itself but if l aint need to do it I wont thanks for the help there guys shall keep it all in mind
-
sack the camera man or did you take it alex
-
ok so it wouldnt starve that cylinder so which is better in your opinion funky jus wondering if its worth the effort to split is all and do i need it planning to push the version 7 to its limits with the stock turbono it has nothing to do with those lateral forces.
split rail is just a parallel vs series argument when 'feeding' the injectors.
-
dumb question :-[ but if you still have the stock fuel rail will your engine starve it self on the end of the rail if your car is turning the same direction that end of the rail is or vice versa and does the split rail fix this problem
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 70 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Rota Wheels are coming!!!
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted