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Posts posted by johnny5
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version 8 are still on the expensive side for what they are but in saying that they are nice cars only been for a ride in one once better turbos than version 7s (twin scroll) some say better looks but thats down to personal preference
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took out springs put in new ones rears needed different tophats so took em all out again
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Has any one tried running different 98s on a dyno to see the difference.
Ive tried 98 Bp and Mobil and they ran the same but Gull we got another 10kw.
Ps. If you pump gull into your car you will not get more power but what am saying is the ethnol thats in it lets you tune for more boost with out knocking but then you'll have to keep using it.
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also if your that worried about knock toulene mixed with petrol in the right quantities will up the ron
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yeah that gull or mobil sh!ts not really 98octane. its apparently like 97.2 or some sh!t but they call it synergy 1000?
/quote]
Thats RON
When you compare MON, Mobil has a higher number, which explains why it "performs better."
But then it is only really academic in most road going cars (unless your car was tuned/designed for 98 or higher), also then you have to take into account the ECU having learnt the fuel type you currently use...
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The only bonus of nitrogen is constant pressure, regardless of temperature. But, unfortunately in street cars, it is the NITROGEN which corrodes rubber, not the oxygen as previously stated. This works fine in racecars as their tyres aren't usefull long enough to corrode, as they wear through them nice and quick, but in a roadcar this could cause some issues... better to let out as much nitrogen as possible if you are planning on topping up with air AFAIK
/quote]
Seriously??
Constant pressure regardless of temperature?? Wat?? The gods of thermodynamics are crying right now.
Dry Nitrogen filled tyres increase pressure with temperature at a more consistent rate (due to no water molecules) so then it is easier to consistently fill the tyres to the required temperature. This makes it easier to fill the cold tyres on a racecar (filled to the nearest 1/4 psi) before a race so that they will be at the optimum pressure by the time they have warmed up. The tyres on the race cars I work on generally rise in pressure by ~4-6psi between hot and cold.
Reading this study below that was done by some Ford Engineers (about 2 mins worth of Googling) shows that Nitrogen filled tyres age slower than those with air (i.e. the rubber retains its properties for longer)
http://www.nitrofill.com/documents/Rubber-News-Nitrogen-Tire-Study1.pdf
The worry with air (containing Oxygen and Water Vapour) is that it can corrode the steel belt inside the tyre rather than deteriorating the rubber.
What difference is removing the Nitrogen and replacing it with another gas that is 78% Nitrogen going to do in the real world anyway??
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I'm lookin at this on TM
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=360081481
It says pick up only but I'm wondering if any of you Aucklanders could pick it up for me and post it down to me in chch at my expense?
Cheers
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its gonna be good
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yeah 96 can be both..i had a Ver 2 96 WRX...and have also seen 96 Ver 3 wrxs
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always down to give you hand brad dont know much but can spin a spanner like a mofo
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yeah pappu think i got the wrong springs
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the rears didnt fit unless they are the wrong springs the top of the rears taper in where the standard rear tophat cannot accomadate the taper what am i doing wtrong do i need version 8 tophats spring part number is R-s1s59-010370 GKC
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We need a conclusion to which is better:
A) Continuing to drive the Subis as usualy
B) Get a 1.5L something and use that as a daily
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I thought about it, but decided not to worry. I've got a second car that will happily pootle along on 91
1k will get you a second hand Corona or Corolla which can do the same, so you can leave the Scoob for the weekends
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Whats everyone thinking now that 98ron is up in the $2.30 mark anyone thinking of letting go of their pride and joy and go cheaper
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nah dont think its aircon was gonna try the belts when i got time and take em off one by one will fill yas all in
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cool lets hear it or point me to the threads please my version 2 had a tdo5h 90 degree inlet and it was just a rex non sti so am very curious maybe the aussie cars had td04s or something
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hey guys just heard a strange whining noise on start up it does not get faster when the car is revved only on start up (cause by the time i got to the mechanic it stopped) and its coming from the front of the car round near the alternator and aircon i think any one had this
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Hello,
Just a couple of questions
What could cause a strong petrol smell outside of the car? This happens even when I just start it up.
Stalling when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd (Can't be MAF, pulled it off while running and stalled) BOV causing me to run super rich?
I can hear a hiss when cruising at 2krpm. Potentially be related to a screamer pipe?
Taking four tries to start it without stalling striahgt after.
No CELs either.
Thanks!
/quote]
What could cause a strong petrol smell outside of the car? This happens even when I just start it up. - You spilt petrol when filling up your car
Stalling when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd (Can't be MAF, pulled it off while running and stalled) BOV causing me to run super rich? - You won lotto
I can hear a hiss when cruising at 2krpm. Potentially be related to a screamer pipe? - You have a snake in the glovebox
Taking four tries to start it without stalling striahgt after. - Battery is scared of the snake.
*disclaimer - I am not a mechanic
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