WRXONP
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Posts posted by WRXONP
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Spent all day making up an exhaust which is mostly 3 inch . One coby . One rear jasma muffler which u can see straight out the other side ....
started it up and cried
never have I once in my life herd a cat less straight through 3 inch sound quieter then the engine
now my little tiny bov is the loudest thing on the car and it's so quiet lol
oh and changed brake pads so no more squeeling which is good cos the squeeling would have been louder than my exhaust
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I love it off !!!
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scored up a 3 inch downpipe for Pocket change yesterday because it had 3 badly dented sections . . today literally cut out the bad sections and panel beated them back into shape and welded them back in
vwaaalaaaa just like a new one
also got a very nice jasma rear muffler . stainless was real tarnished and ugly so whipped out the grinder and the buffing kit . Also looks like new
ready to install tomorrow hope it has a good rumble
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Why thank u sir ! exactly what I wanted to know .
feel gutted now but it does feel really weak in comparison to other wrxs I've had
that thread with all the ecu numbers / injectors / afm etc is gone i csnt find it ?
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so my cars a 1993 wrx and I pulled ecu to have a look and it has a prova sticker like this
so I opened it to have a look as I was expecting a eprom chip because as far as I know this is the only way to tune these ecus
and to my confusion there is no eprom as u can see so I pulled the prova sticker off for curiosity to see what ecu numbers are and I have this
and to further add to.my confusion the numbers on case don't match numbers on the board
so I did a quick Google can't find anything about the numbers
because shouldnt the numbers on the ecu socket on the blue sticker match the numbers on the case on the sticker ?
case shows 000 RJ8
board shows 000 RH8
So my question is what is the ecu I actually have ? ver 1? ver 2? wrx? sti? bc5?
and since there is no eprom does that instantly rule out that it is a prova ecu ?
Cheers
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just put a scarles alloy radiator in my wrx with blue silicone hoses
looks good and nothing to split and leak
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Had my race car tuned at cdm and I highly recommend lin for his knowledge and tuning ability
I dropped the car off to him with a nistune ecu installed . z32 afm and sard 850s and gt3076r turbo and all supporting mods . I had the nistune support person try to do a rough tune so the car could start and idle but basically when I dropped it off to cdm the car was hard to start (cranking maps too rich) and it struggled to idle . within 5 minutes lin had it starting perfectly and idling perfectly .
Overall was very impressed with professionalism and untold amounts of advice on what to do next and best of all the tune was done in less than 2 hours and was less than 500$. In my opinion amazing stuff for a car that couldn't start or run properly
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brought another suby ! This time a ver 1 wrx
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The difference between a "catch" can and a oil air seperate is exactly that - one catches the oil and stores it - and the other puts the oil back into the sump
Basically they're both the same thing / just plumbed differently
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I would say the heads will be stuffed - if the cams are binding that much - the steel can won't have much issue but the alloy head will be munted where the cam runs - if be pulling the motor for sure
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Gave her a wash today.
Ooooohhhhhh mmmyyyyyyyyyy llllaaaaaaaaaaaawwddddd
The things I would do for that car
Anyway fuuuuuuuuuuuuu my cars been a head ache since the rear axle snapped
Brought axles for a viscous LSD - didn't work / was told my diff needed 2x left axles to work - installed it all last night and test drove and no good they popped out
Pulled it apart and turns out it's a suretrac LSD - needs special cups - off for a road trip today to pick them up and pull it all apart again after work to fit correct axles
Oh joy the ole Subaru is so kind to me since I came back
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Figured it ! And FML it's the same problem I had a few years back with my old suby - even a old thread about it too
After getting axles from the wreckers today and discovering that the left clips in and the right still doesn't clip in - I thought **** it and pulled the diff out to sort this out on the bench - pulled the rear casing off and I have a ap suretrac diff
After a brain fart I tried the left axle on the right hand side and wallah clipped in
Done some internet searching on ap suretrac and it says they use 2x left axles
Back to the wreckers tomorow to get 2 left axles haha
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What u mean ?
The passenger side snapped - I removed tw broken part
It broke at the recess for the clip (weakest part cos it's the skinniet)
The other side looks a lot different where it goes into the diff - the clip is in the diff and without measuring it - it looks like it's actually the correct depth to clip in
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So I snapped my passenger side axle inside The diff - pulled it all apart and got the broken piece out - so to get the passenger side broken piece out I removed the driver side axle and pushed it through -
When I pulled the drivers side apart / the axle just came out - didn't have to un clip it or anything
Upon re installation - I can push the cv hard up to the diff and it doesn't clip in - the clips in the diff how ever
Is it the wrong axle ?
The end of the driver side axle steps down ? The spline gets a lot smaller and there's nothing inside the diff for it to engage to because the spline is all the same diameter in the diff ?
I can get pics but any help is appreciated I need my car going again
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Mild steel is fine - don't use 1.6mm tho - not only does it loose alot of heat - cracks easily too -
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Ahh so I was missing something haha thank you !!! I will try that after work - as since
I have replaced the sensor the cel hasn't come up - when I searched google
It simply said to join plugs and turn key to on - but thank you !
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So ever since I got my ver 2 sti - the check engine light will randomly come on - the trend seemed to e that on idle when the cars fully upto temp the light would come
On and the passenger side fan would come on- and u rev it up and the light went out and fan came off - never came on when driving -
So I pulled fault codes and got 21 which from what I've read is water temp sensor - which makes sense that the fan comes on -
So I pulled intercooler / intake etc and changed that ****y mother ****er - reset ECU with the plugs under the dash - still pulls 21 - did the ole battery dance trick to reset it - still have 21
Now I'm confused because before the symptoms were a lot like a dud water temp
Sensor - sometimes it wouldn't start cold - would just die - since changing the sensor it starts cold perfectly
So a quick question without me pulling it all apart again - is where does the wire got the water temp sensor go? Straight into the loom ? Would it be worth resistance checking the wiring from the plug to the ECU pin?
Another thing is does a Subaru only use water temp for cold start enrichment ? Does the input to ECU at operating temp control the afr ? Because afr is hanging around 11.5 even with the dud sensor
From what I've red however - do u simply plug the blacks and the greens and turn key to on to reset ECU ? Or am I missing something
Cheers
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Wouldn't u need a restrictor with a larger hole ? Because removing it completely lowers the boost - and putting a restrictor of any sort raises boost
I would go ebc - I'm doing the exact same thing to my v2 sti - full exhaust including 3 inch dowbpipe and a closed loop ebc to control boost
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Changed that mongrel water temp sensor .... Reset ECU twice and still does same code
raaaaaaaage -
Received my hdi ebc-r
so can't wait to install that - and got new water temp sensor to get rid of the Cel
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I ran a tial 50mm bov on my sr20 drift car with a gt3076r / valve worked very well and had no compressor surge
so can't wait to install that - and got new water temp sensor to get rid of the -
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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brought a vf30 to replace my baby td04 .... then out of pure laziness thought about a swapping it for a td05 lol
slowly getting bits to make it faster !!