WRXONP
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Posts posted by WRXONP
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ver 2 wrx has td05 90 degree
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what model came stock with straight inlet td05?
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If u don't thrash it it doesn't matter what turbos on there
Even then I've run a td05 on a bc5 rs before on stock ecu and injectors etc and it was fine
That's a Mitsi front housing hence the straight inlet - swap over to a Subaru housing
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Realistically if your supplying enough fuel you don't need split rails
Think of a rb fuel rail - fuels gotta feed 5 injectors before number 6 gets any fuel - and yet they don't have any problems as long as your supplying enough fuel
I know some people do it to try lower the temp - but realistically the lines will still be near enough same place and the same length of not longer
For big power the stock rail piping is too small anyhow
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Yup 255lph intank Walbro - when pulling plugs number 3 looked no different to the rest
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Number 3 is allways the last to receive fuel - if the fuel pump can only just feed all 4 on stock setup - with more air going in the duty cycle goes up and the 1st 3 injectors use most of the fuel pumps capability which leaves number 3 a little dry in comparison -
I ran 235 kw without split rails / have seen some up around 250 without split rails either -
You can never supply too much fuel - as excess will go back to tank - supplying not enough fuel will allways kill motors (Subaru or anything else)
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The stock fuel pump is only designed to flow just enough for the stock setup - once u wind things up - it simply cannot supply enough fuel - injector duty cycle can increase but if there's not enough flow the increased duty cycle won't do anything
As pumps get old - worn - tollarences increase / flow diminishes
The fuel pump is one of the most important things IMO
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6s ecu (assuming this is what u have) has a really good fuel map
i would never push any higher boost without a walbro (or similar) - hell i wouldnt actually even want to boost stock pressure without a fuel pump upgrade
im not saying its safe - alot of different factors can make AFR swing - especially ECT sensor and maf
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nah stock rails stock regulator - walbro intank pump
spark plugs never shown any signs of leaning out on number 3 either
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lol i ment in general a fuel pump upgrade more than anything else - a mates v6 sti goes pretty lean at 16psi where as another with a walbro stays alot richer
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my v3 sti ecu (6s) would cut at 22psi
mine ran 20psi daily and loooooved it - walbro is key me reckons
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Mainly depends on how far advanced the timing is wether or not its safe to put the pedal down - but realistically u can run 91 and it will be fine if you don't thrash it
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i ran a exedy hyper single - un sprung 6 puck with 3200 lb pressure plate
box seem to lap it up - never fucked a box in the year or so i had it -
it all depends whether your box is allright to start with really
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we are borg - seems someone beat u too it haha
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would be good ay - a simple check valve in the nipple would allow one man to do it very easily
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it will never work the way your doing it - because like i said your just introducing air into the system
theres two ways to bleed it - the way i said which pushes fluid down and out the nipple - or theres back bleeding which u need a pump to force fluid back upto the master cylinder
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dayumm my silvia in 6th gear is around 3300 at 100 with 4.3 final drive
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i dont quite understand how your doing it ? are u pumping the pedal with the bleed nipple closed? then holding it down and letting the fluid out with it down - leaving it fully down untill the nipple is closed again?
start with the passenger side untill u get no air coming out because its the longest line
the way u word it makes me think u are loosenening the bleeder then pumping??
that will never work as when u push down the fluid will go out the nipple and as the pedal goes up it will suck air in
you need to pump the pedal up hard - while u hard the pedal down hard someone needs to crack the bleeder open - the pedal should drop to the floor - keep it on the floor untill the bleeder is retightneed - repeat untill only fluid is coming from the bleeder - not airated fluid
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Manual conversions are supposed to have driveshaft hoops put in, even if its a direct swap.
realistically u dont need a cert for manual conversion
quote from LVVTA
You can do a gearbox conversion without a LVV Cert if:
* the OE gearbox cross-member has not been heated, cut, or welded; and
* the OE gearbox cross-member mounting to the OE body or chassis members is unchanged; and
* no replacement gearbox cross-member is used; and
* the OE drive-shaft(s) is un-modified; and
* no substantial modifications have occurred to the floor or gearbox tunnel area, other than provision for gear-shift mechanism.
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yea surely as the mainstream exhaust gasses pass accros where the wastegate plumbs it would create a low pressure zone and would help drag the wastegate gasses out??
BUT letting more wastegate gasses out would mean less boost???
i think we need steve to chime in and shed some light on this
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My boost curve changed dramatically with it plumbed in - boost came
On earlier and it stopped my tapering problem I had on my Subaru - could hold 20psi to redline with it plumbed into bottom of downpipe
My thoughts were that pre turbo back pressure would increase with it plumbed???
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Setting up a car for drags
in General Vehicle Discussion
Posted
i ran 12.5 on a ver 2 wrx with a td05 - it really is all about the launch tho - start of the day i was running mid 14s
i still ran 40psi tyre pressure too -ive found that u actually want wheel spin because it puts less stress on the drive train
normally launching with grip will destroy gearboxs/clutchs and diffs / cvs etc