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94 Leone

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Posts posted by 94 Leone

  1. This stuff has recently showed up on trademe, I'm not too sure on whether it's trustworthy, considering it does seem quite cheap for a tunable ECU, ECM whatever you want to call it.

    This is their info page

    http://www.megasquirt.info/

    And this seems to be their chest beating page.

    http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

    Anyone else had a look at these?

    I'm doing some half-assed research into this stuff, as I'm thinking this might be a useful alternative later on, rather than having to bugger with hassles and stuff If I decide to upgrade engine or whatever.

    just thought it was rather interesting.

  2. That was the plan, was just wondering if there were any special tricks to it... Other than cut out uniden components, and re-solder old wires to connect to each other. And then hope the wires aren't too tangled to get back together...

    Edit:what's worse is that it has a whole bunch of cables that don't look right running everywhere,

    Anyone know AVS-5 or AVS-2 cables? they seem to be running for where the impact sensor or siren thing goes in the engine bay, they are wired in an attempt to be neat, but in doing so, have just made my job of uninstallation more annoying.

    Extra edit: it's just automotive wiring different thickness etc, so different resistance...

    Well, atleast by the end of this I'll know how to hate uniden alarms alot more xD

  3. Cheers...

    Though I'd rather not, just have bare wires etc, It's annoying as it bleeds into plugs and stuff everywhere, and I'm not really sure on which cables the little plug things go to(Wires change colour) I'll take some pics. But, cutting it may be a last resort thing.

  4. O.K.

    I bought a loom for my car from Gazzy2000, and It has an alarm hooked up to it,

    It's a uniden vs1600XR, was wanting some advice on how to (properly) remove, other than cut off the wires and be done with it(I'm not too keen on meataxe) I'll get some pics of it, and other points of concern among it.

    Feel free to offer opinion.

  5. Over-spool = too much boost = too much pressure = pistons out side of block, or melt or it all will just go boom.

    But de-catting as being spoken about in this will increase the likelyhood of over-spooling, as will the various other mods being performed on these guys hotted up subies.

    many of them run their own boost controllers, so it bypasses the factory boost control often to allow a higher boost, which is fine, If the cat is there, but de-catting creates more flow, therefore less ressistance on the turboo resulting in faster spooling, therefore increasing the likelihood of over-spooling. and without these factory boost-cuts in place engine go boom-boom. so if you have a standard system, you are less-likely to go blow, but with average boy-racer mods in place, chances are somethings gonna give, and it's not gonna be something cheap.

    edit:amiright?

  6.  Jakee']

    [quote name='94 Leone said:

    Necro'ing:

    Hold the door button on the side.

    Or solder the wires together to keep constant circuitry that are in the doot button.(I haven't opened it before, so not sure whether the door buttion's a circuit breaker or completer) I'd assume completer, so solder, if it's a breaker,well justcut the wires and tape them up.

    /quote]

    And then when someone breaks into your drivers door the alarm doesn't go off.

    Unless rather than hooking up to the relay that all doors go to for the alarm you do it individually for the drivers door, as well as the relay?

  7. some cars put their hazard lights there, but subaru were like- haha we're so awesome, This'll pis people off for generations to come, a constant on- override keys park light on button haha, it's genius. They'll be so mad and then we'll be like- Umadbro?

    Subaru are the original trolls.

    ninja:typo fix

  8. Okay, as some of you may know, I'm converting my BH5 to N/A I have the engine and ecu, but no loom...

    However I have a wrecked BG3 I took the ecu from it to see if it was 3 plug like the ecu for the new engine... It's only a two plug, but the two plugs it does have match up with two of the plugs on the Engine's ecu.

    BG3

    2011-11-28155935.jpg

    2011-11-28160016.jpg

    BG3 ECU is:

    Make:Hitachi

    Model:V1

    Top line code: |2261 AB520|

    Second line code: MECF-E10 B1 4906

    EDIT:just noticed a number on the side it is:

    MECF-E10 B1 04558

    new ECU

    2011-11-28155957.jpg

    2011-11-28160032.jpg

    New ECU is:

    Make: Unisia Jecs

    Model: T9

    Top line model code:22611 AB360

    Second line code: A18-000 RV3 4607

    The plan is to swap the loom into the BH5 along with the different ecu.

    I was wondering what does the middle plug of the T9 ECU control

    (to find a level of importance) and would the V1's loom work properly with the T9 ECU

    If not, does anyone have an engine loom that would fit the T9.

    Cheers.

    Harley.

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