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Posts posted by Scoobydoo
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I can read 'Industrial Area' on that blue sign, but not what's above it
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Lolol nice effort... but a fail trying to post the second pic
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20 minutes ago, RAYDEO said:
where did you get the white one from?
Ummm... from you I believe lol
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TLDR
Whats on the agenda for the Saturday? What time is stuff happening / where etc?
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#boxslayer strikes again haha
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2 hours ago, RAYDEO said:
yes, run by playday :-) Jason have kindly given us 3 hotlap sessions to give away.
WiIl pay to re-check his availability after today
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21 hours ago, sobanoodle said:
Yeah that's the plan, contemplating on whether to paint or wrap, any suggestions? Haven't tried yet but looks like the buttons can easily be removed leaving bare shells.
If they can be removed, as well as all the electrics... then search hydro dipping. So easy and you can probably DIY.
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Yes they will work on the V2 unit
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For a 4-5k car... nah I don't think so. Fine if you can source the parts and do all the work yourself.. but not if you have to pay labour costs for someone else to do it.
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I have a set of GFB lightweight pulleys if you're interested for some engine bling
https://www.pro-wholesale.co.nz/pulley-kits-lightweight-under-drive/
Model #2010
$250 for CS member
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If the wheels are anything decent like Rays or Works, then the finish could be anodized... which isn't affected by paint stripper. For example, my old V7 had CE28N's which were spray canned black. The black paint stripped off and didn't affect the factory finish.
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1 minute ago, evowrx said:
Looks like @Scoobydoo old one.
What one? Where's the original post / pic?
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Check the dimensions of the ends of your intake.. as that STA one isn't the same size both ends.
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Pity it's on a holiday weekend.. I'm going to be away as well.. would've loved to show off the new Foz haha.. oh wells
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Basically yes, but it looks like the splines are differently shaped - more sharply cut, and also there's 8 instead of 6, so it would spread the load a bit more.
But $250 vs $50 for nice local ones? I'll stick to local ones.
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Well I thought the issue was the central locking was meant to activate when you lock / unlock the car using the key in the door, but it turns out not.
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Actually, false alarm. Both the cars lock and unlock this way, so it's not a fault at all.
Disregard
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So the central locking actuator in my Foz has given up the ghost and I need to replace it. The vehicle in question is a Forester STi, SG9 chassis.
Anybody know of how I can identify the part number correctly to see how expensive it is to order from Partsouq or Amayama?
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And get the heads ported & polished, and the exhaust side flow matched to the headers. A few extra gains here and there all add up.
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Does racetech not do them any more? Aren't they the ones I got for you?
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This is on Trademe, I don't know how it compares to your Dynamat price though
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/amplifiers/4-channel/auction-1183499974.htm
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Ahh I forget the guys name but he got it when we hard-parked. I think Grahame will know his name, or at least have his number on his text list.
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Here a vote, there a vote, everywhere a vote vote
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Sussing out what suspension I have
in Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Posted
So I want to sort out my suspension height and stiffness issues, so firstly I need to know what I have. All I've been told is they are WRX and/or STi struts, and I can now tell they are Tein springs, but haven't looked up the model codes to see how 'lowered' they are. Here's some info in case anybody can identify them for me:
Front Left: KYB GK07, Red strut, number stamped 20310FE010
Rear Left: KYB BD19, Black strut, number stamped 20360SA170
Front Right: KYB, GK27 (I think), Red strut, number stamped 20310FE000
Rear Right: KYB, ??00, Red strut, can't tell what the stamped number is
They also all have nuts on the bottom, so does that mean they are re-buildable / serviceable?
Model numbers off the springs:
Fronts: F-SIS12-010324 HAC
Rears R-SIS13-010324 HAC