Jambun
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Posts posted by Jambun
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You know they don't ship each item individually right?
They load a container, the faster it fills the faster it arrives.
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thats bloody awesome!!
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When I was watching CV removal videos, they all did it that way and now looking at ball joint removals it looks like can become a disaster so quickly.
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Grease on the lower arm nipple.
Need to replace the nipple or reboot and grease or is it all G yo?
Going on from that, on partsouq here
It says "complete ball joint" what may this entail. Plug and play as such?
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How do you test it a thermostat Ross? Stick it in boiling water?
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I thoought if you unplugged the AFM it should stall because its sensing 'zero air in'?
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Don't give her the satisfaction
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Besides a little bit of squealing, nothing I don't think is out of the ordinary.
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Positive its clutch?
Not oil leaking onto downpipe?
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Whats in it fo me?
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I was able to spin FL tire and have FR tire turn in the opposite direction, but FL tire wasn't turning when I was spinning FR tire. Is it normal?
If the axle CV joint has failed some how which allows a wheel to free wheel it turn freely with no movement transferred to the gear box and other wheel then - you have a CV joint that has failed. Any good shop re booting your axle should be able to tell you right away if the CV joint is OK or mucked up by road grime and debri which case OEM axle replacement is the best approach as you've read the other forums about after market cheap axle replacements causing a whole other list of issues.
This is off an Outback forum but it describes what I've discovered. Everything off the ground, all spinning freely except for the above problem.
Checked the boots and nothings ripped but at 160K odd wear and tear could bite. Next silly question OEM or aftermarket?
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checked the hub nut is tight ? jacked it up and given the wheel a good boot back n forward? . centre diff problems cant be traced to an individual wheel . and if you mean front diff then even that only narrows it to both front wheels
Negative to the above. Handbrake I should be able to check/tighten the nut without it spinning?
I have checked for play in the past and wasn't any but I'll give it a hoon and yes I meant front, not centre.
@ADIKT, literally got balanced two days ago and I had the same phenomenon with my other set of rims.
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I've got a clunking feel from my front left wheel (passenger) at realllllllllllllly slow de/acceleration in a straight line. Done figure 8s in a parking lot and nada, the only time its ever happened when turning is FULL lock to the right trying to back down a tight corner in my driveway.
Most likely be the CV or is there a possibility of it going deeper ie FRONT, not centre
, diff? -
They should fit in my van easy enough!
Send me a PM, I'll be able to grab them friday or saturday.
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What are they?
And no I don't know him sorry.
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It's an open system with common pressure everywhere so they should all match. I think standard is 1.1 bar.
If you have a 1.1 bar on the header tank and a 1.3 on the rad you may as well weld the rad shut because the header tank will open instead.
My factory caps are different. 113kpa at header vs 137kpa at radiator
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Thats awesome guitarguy, exactly what I want to do. Sure Ive said it before tho!
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When you said checked IAC, actually pull it apart and cleaned it?
Many moons ago I measured the voltage on mine and it was slightly too low but full of crunk.
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I'll make it to this one!
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nooooo my baby!
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Everyone knows where but how to get there!
Google maps
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Did subaru ever update their factory fuel lines to run ethanol/methanol without eating the inside?
Whatever Gull adds to their fuel.
, diff?
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What have you done to your car today?
in General Vehicle Discussion
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tu meke!