insanity007

If I ran a small 16g between 1 bar and 1.2 bar would I need to upgrade anything else?

I've still got the issue so if anyone thinks of something that's not Thermostat related please let me know.

This is what I found so far: TD04 390CFM at 14.7PSI VF-22 490CFM at 18.0PSI Small 16G 505CFM at 14.7PSI Large 16G 550CFM at 14.7PSI 20G 650CFM at 14.7PSI I'm confused about the 20g though. There seems to be a TD05 20G and TD06 20G. Are they the same or different? Also how do I tell the difference between a small 16G and a large 16G?

does anyone know the CFM ratings for these turbos?

What the easiest way to modify the inlet if it's not bent? Also what is a safe pressure to run a Td05 16g at on a standard v2 motor?

Hi guys, To avoid any confusion here is a similar engine bay to mine:

Also which is better... td05 16g or td05 20g an what are the differences between the 2?

I've had my ECU chipped anyway and I'm still working on tuning with the guy who sold it to me. It's boosting 17PSI now with the TD04. I was thinking TD05H or I found a cheap VF23 on trademe. Will the VF23 bolt straight in? What is the safe boost limit for a non sti block assuming I upgrade the AFM, sensor and injectors?

I've got the standard TD04 with my GF8 and am looking at an upgrade and just wondering what people think would be a good upgrade. I've got a full 3" system and I want this to bolt straight onto my next turbo. I also have aftermarket stainless steel extractors. I don't want it to be expensive <=$300 second hand I've had some in mind but any thoughts are welcome. Looking for something that can boost 18 all the way to redline that spools early and produces lots of air. Also, will I need to upgrade the injectors and map sensor or anything else?

Whoops should have read thread better... I will get out the way now lol No worries thanks for taking a look anyway

Those three sentences are the guide. Its the wee shaft from top of the clutch pedal that goes through the firewall. I had a look and this makes sense now. It looks like it's got a fork at the end of the shaft with a pin through it that holds onto the clutch pedal. Do I have to take the clutch pedal out to push this back?

... anyone...

Mine's not heating up properly instead of overheating.

I'm up in Aucks. I'll talk to my mechanic about what he put in. Every time I've pulled over to check how hot the engine feels with my hand, the car's been running and the fans haven't been on.

I have no idea how to do this. Do you know if there's a guide anywhere??

It's a ver 2.

I've had 2 different mechanics fit them. The engine also feels cold when I touch it on the top and it shouldn't after running for a while...

I'm not sure why this is happening but my engine temp won't stay stable. When I'm doing town driving with a lot of starting and stopping the car EVENTUALLY gets up to temp (the needle is half way up the temp guage) but as soon as I take it on a longer drive without stopping the temp goes down, even to the point where it's below the bottom line as if it's only just started up. There's warm air coming out of the vents but even when I whack it all the way over to 30 it stays luke warm and normally its meant to be scolding hot at 30. When the car gets up to temp from lots of starting and stopping only then its scolding hot. I've had 2 thermostats put in over the last month and this hasn't solved the problem. Does anyone know what else might be happening?? I need to replace the AC belt and get the AC regassed and I don't know if this may have anything to do with it? Mine's a 1996 pre facelift GF8 BTW.

I'm wondering how to shorten the period for my clutch pedal. I've tried the bolt under the dash but because my clutch takes so high it starts slipping with hardly any adjustment to this bolt. Is there another way of doing it... on the cheap?

Thanks for the replies so far guys. I've chipped my ECU and want to run 18psi and need to know if this is too much for the MAP sensor. It's currently running 16 psi with the chip and I haven't noticed any spiking whereas it was spiking HEAPS before I chipped it. It would spike up to about 16 and drop back down to 10. Now it hits 16, stays there until about mid 5000's and slowly drops back down to 13 before red line.

Really??? I've been reading on various forums that they're 1.2 bar.

Hi guys... just wondering what boost my map sensor is rated at. I've got a pre-facelift 1996 GF8 hatch and the codes on the map sensor are as follows: 22012AA020 079800-1720 5v Denso Japan

As the title suggests. Here is a photo of them:

If I replace the steering wheel with one of these in my 1996 pre facelift WRX... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=462405345 ... how would I do it and would I be able to do it without getting a new alignment. I've currently got one of the standard Nardi wheels.

Now that I'm actually doing it, It's $1800 for parts, labour as well as cambelt and water pump