insanity007
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Posts posted by insanity007
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We picked up a pretty sweet ex rally rexy and it goes harder than any rexy I've ever driven and is in mint condition. I was taking a look through the engine bay and noticed no Air Flow Meter.... how is this possible?
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I've had overheating problems with my car and after lots of to-ing and fro-ing with my mechanic including a new radiator, it looks like the problem is leaning towards an issue with the head gaskets but he won't be sure until he can test on Monday.
How much will it cost to get these done??
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where can I find a good alarm tech and air conditioning tech on the North Shore Auckland? We just bought a car on the weekend and the alarm's misbehaving and it needs an aircon unit.
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What's coming from my car is definitely steam, it definitely isn't coming from the exhaust either and the smell isn't burning oil. Subtech reckons it's the water pump from the phone convo we had so I'm taking it to them next week. Can't say I don't agree considering where the steam's coming from but we'll see...
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If I'm facing the engine bay I have steam coming from the bottom right hand side of the engine after running the car for a while.
The water in the radiator and the reservoir are not going down and none of the oils are either. The car's also not misbehaving. I'm stumped ???
The burn has a rubbery burn mixed with anti-freeze smell...
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I've checked all of the fuses in the main fuse relay box and the one by the driver's footwell. No busted fuses.
I opened the little black box next to the ABS thing and everything in there seems fine.
When I test the multimeter against the ground and the +12V battery terminal I get voltage on both the end that is grounded to the car and the end that's grounded to the bottom of the black box.
There are 2 plugs that connect to the black box. One with 2 thick wires and another with about 9 thinner wires. The one with 9 thinner wires looks like a plug that can support 12 thinner wires but not all of them are being used. I tried using the multimeter on the ground and through each of these wires and none gave me any voltage. Is this supposed to happen or is there supposed to be voltage or is voltage only applied as the car is breaking?
Any more info would be REALLY useful as I'm completely stumped at this point ???
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Nevermind I found it and checked all the wiring and it's fine. Is it related to the "antilock brake" light?
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The ABS light has come on in my mrs. car and it's on all the time now. Can anyone tell me what might be going on. Is there a way to test the ABS to see if it's working still and if it's the connection to the dash or not?
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What about getting my shocks re-cond and raised with standard springs?
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I keep looking but I can't find anything on there. I'm looking under Car Parts, Subaru and Suspension and I'm not coming up with anything. Am I missing something or not looking in the right place??
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What cars can I get these from that will fit straight on that will be right for this car? Can I get springs from a legacy or will that not work?
Any ideas?
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yea iacv is the idle controller...u undo the screws and rotate it to adjust idle...its on the intake plenum to the right of throttle body
sounds like turbo seals man so id take ur downpipe off and see if the turbos oily???
Yeah I did that and the solenoid starting ticking and then after a while the check engine light would come on and the car would misbehave so I had to unscrew it all the way again and let it idle at 600 - 700 rpm.
Subtech recently took my turbo off to fix the downpipe. I dunno if that did it?
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600-700 only a tad low.adjust the iacv wen hot to around 750-850 rpm and thatl sort idle...
is it smoking out the exhaust on idle??? or on throttle??
cos basic rule of thumb is....
smoking on deceleration / idle indicates a seal is leaking (turbo OR valve seals have nearly the same symptoms)
Smoking on acceleration indicates piston rings / ring lands can also cause this
turbos can smoke on acceleration but its normally the excess oil still burning...going down a hill and decelling the whole way and if it smokes would indicate turbo or valve seals...if turbo (front seal) ull have oil in intercooler piping and rear seal will be spitting oil into the downpipe and causing smoke off the hot downpipe
hope this helps
iacv? Is that the idling screw?
It's smoking out the back on idle and I have no idea if it's smoking on acceleration or deceleration because I can't see any smoke out the back while I'm driving.
Normally if I let the car idle for about 20 seconds it starts smelling aweful and then plumes of smoke start pouring out the back. This lasts for about 2 minutes and then goes away.
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CUDDAS']
[quote name='CUDDAS said:
If you dont think it's your turbo, have you checked your coolant? i have just had a coolant leak running down onto my headers which plumed white smoke & smelt quite bad.
/quote]
Would that somehow get into the headers and cause white plumes of smoke to come out of the back of my muffler?
i'l repeat what i posted previously...
Depends if your engine is trying to run on it (it would enter the combustion chamber via a leaking head gasket maybe) which would explain why it's idling at 300rpm.
& mine was just a split hose but the burning coolant produced a white smoke that is all.
Maybe you should see if someone in your area could come & have a look
Was there any smoke coming from the engine bay?
I took off the oil cap while the car was running and revved it and there was no smoke coming out at all and it didn't even smell like burning, just like oil.
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I made a noob mistake. It's idling at 600 to 700rpm. The white line is 500rpm down the bottom lol.
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I also don't have a blow of valve in the car. It's got the stock plumb back valve installed. Dunno if taking this out and using a straight forward pipe with a port for the the small hose connecting to the top of the engine may help?
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Does anyone know what the cause of my car idling at 300rpm and blowing plumes of smoke out of the exhaust after about 30 seconds might be?
It's a 1995 WRX with 166kms on the clock. It has a full 3 inch exhaust and an HKS cylindrical pod filter installed with the dampening box taken out.
I've replaced all of the engine coils in it too as they were all cracked.
Sometimes it cuts out under boost when I'm in second.
I tried adjusting the idling screw but the solenoid starts ticking and after a while the check engine light comes on and the car starts behaving like a dog until I adjust the screw back to where it makes no difference to how the car idles.
I checked my mrs. car (she's got a 94) and she doesn't even have a screw to adjust the idling and he car idles perfectly at 1k.
I always use 98 in the car and the oil looks like it was changed recently by the guy I bought it off.
The smell of the smoke is a very rich burning smell and it's white.
I've had 2 compression tests done on the car and they've both come back fine. I do wonder how warm the car was when they were done though.
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I got a new WRX and one of the last things I want to do is un-lower it because I don't like the ride. I really like the ride the standard springs provide.
I've got a 1995 WRX. Which WRX models can I get the springs off?
How much would it cost to have the springs swapped over? Is it maybe easy to do at home? Will I need an alignment done afterwards?
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No Air flow meter???
in Engine Related
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that'll still be under the passenger side footwell or would they put it anywhere else?