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Hey guys, New here, have a question, am making a twisted turbo setup with a kinugawa TD05 25G 3" anti surge inlet turbo, i am wondering if there is a set distance for placing the AFM in front of the turbo housing, as iv heard it can create issues ( no way to delete the AFM as no link with this build). The pipe will be a straight pipe off the front of the turbo. Has anybody played around with this before or have some helpful information about this? Any help is appreciated :)
Right.. the AFM fixup guide! This is probably most relevant to early-mid 90's AFM's that have no servicible parts in them. The basic idea is that over time the solder joints on the connectors become dry and crack, which makes for a bad electrical connection and sometimes an error code. Even if no code is given, you may experience random loss of power from time to time, which can also be caused by this. Sorry about the blurry photos, it was a crap camera! Anyway, moving on, you'll need: Solder Solder wick/sucker (optional) Soldering Iron (preferably a hot one) Knife Silicon or some other kind of sealant. 1. Locate your AFM on the drivers side of the engine bay. It's attached to the airbox by bolts, and to the flexi-joint pipe by hose clamps. It's probably wise to unbolt the AFM completely from everything, although not necessary. You'll need to unplug it too! 2. After getting the AFM off you'll need to cut through the black sealant that lines the outside of the circuitry housing. The lid is quite deep so be careful when prying it out, I managed to crack the outer casing from prying too hard. 3. After you get the lid off you'll see a copper EM sheilding plate that is soldered down by one side. If the plate is loose then awesome, take it out, otherwise you'll need to remove the solder to get the sheilding plate out. Solderwick is great for this kinda stuff, but i'm sure there's more than one way to skin a cat. 4. Once that's out of the way you can see some of the circuitry involved in the mysterious AFM. Down one side you will see 4-5 connector pins that go from the main plug on the outer casing through to the circuit board (see number 3 on this incredibly blurry excuse for a photo). Usually these are the culprits! It's always best to remove the old solder before re-soldering, but you can probably get away with not doing that. If you look down at the pins inside the casing you'll see that they are actually made up of 2 pins connected with a solder joint (one from the circuit board, the other from the plug). Heat the joint so the solder is liquid then remove the old solder, then add some more solder as necessary. If you don't have solder removing stuff then i'm sure that re-wetting the joint should be ok. Repeat for all of the pins. 5. You're done! Put the EM sheilding back on and re-solder it to the grounding connection. Then replace the plastic lid and seal it with sealant to keep moisture out. This should conclude your adventures in to the AFM, and should be enough to have repaired it. I've done several of these and never had any more problems with them afterwards. If you're problem persists then you may need to either buy a new AFM or find one on trademe. Best of luck!
Hi Team, I've been troubleshooting an issue for awhile with my O2 AFM. Symptoms is delayed reading of the O2 sensor after startup. Brand new 4 wire O2 sensor has been installed after the last one appeared intermittent. After starting the car it will read at 14.7 for between 8-10mins on average then seems to work as expected. First we thought that it might be an issue with the heater. Jason (gotasuby) and I did some tests and found the ECU wasn't providing an earth for the heater. After shorting the heater circuit to ground to force it to heat we found the ECU still didn't take a reading from the sensor. We were alternating the heater circuit on and off but didn't want to do it for a long period of time to avoid any damage. Can any other 07~ owners let me know if they have noticed similar behaviour on theirs ? Mine will do this regardless if its a cold start or a hot start.