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Durty-Sanchez

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  1. Mine did this when the water pump went (if that helps). Would overheat at idle but you could drive it and it'd cool back down to normal again. Could be worth looking at, cambelt/pump is marginally cheaper than head gaskets!
  2. Another quick question... how compatible are GC8 struts with the BD5? I read that the front's are a match but the rear GC8's are shorter and would cause the Legacy to sit lower in the rear. However, using the part number site posted above the part numbers for the rear struts are very similar between the two chassis and have a common interchangeable part number: BD5: 20362AC300 GC8: 20360FA242 KYB BD5 replacement: 334115 KYB GC8 replacement: 334109 = also interchangeable with the BD5 20362AC300 Confusing af I'm sure
  3. Thanks for the links I'll take a look shortly. Probably after new shocks tbh but might consider a used set if it works out better. Cheers, DS
  4. Hey, Currently running KYB shocks (unknown model) and am looking to replace or upgrade if possible. KYB haven't seen me wrong so interested in either: Part numbers for the OEM replacement strut/shocks Part numbers for the AGX variant strut/shocks so I can try to source these offshore Or... any recommendations for strut/shock replacement options Any good suppliers for any of the above Details are: BD5A TT Legacy RS, high KM's and standard springs/suspension. Daily motorway driver but am looking for improvements with open road / uphill / downhill Ri
  5. Unfortunately cars of our generation are starting to foster a few electrical gremlins so this may not be the easiest thing to track down. Having had something similar go wrong here\'s some suggested bug-hunting steps. Firstly though it\'s worth noting that your climate display will flash on for a split second when you switch the ignition off. This seems to be some kind reverse voltage or delay between the logic circuits losing power and the cut-off minimum power for the illumination components (mine does it too). In any case, this may indicate that your unit is ok and it\'s just not getting t
  6. When you say a jumper you mean one with resistance, right? Otherwise you might be shorting out some of the ECU circuits
  7. CEL codes? They will tell you if anything is unplugged and/or missing.
  8. Does it still have the factory BOV?? If it seems to run fine off boost then there\'s no significant amount of metered air leaking out so as Marky said, your skank-whistle is sounding a bit suspect.
  9. Wastegate pressure is ~7psi but with a working factory boost solenoid AND restrictor-pill it\'s around 14psi. I have chips if you\'re interested. It needs to be a first-gen TT though ~93-95, EJ20H engine, R6/7C ECU (there\'s another too but I forget the code - T9 maybe?). Wait until you\'ve sorted your current problem out first tho.
  10. Put a resistor between the wires (100ohm might do?). Make sure you block off the line (23) that goes to it usually. That way your primary will just run stock wastegate pressure rather than free-boosting
  11. Things that have caused my miss-firing: - Plugs gapped incorrectly. 0.8mm ftw - Coils got old. New coils are pricey but make a huge difference (expect a few years out of a set tho) - Fuel pump. The factory one will be giving you grief if you haven\'t replaced it already - Fuel pump wiring. The factory wiring seems to build up heaps of resistance, limiting the current draw by the pump. New power supply/relay did the trick - AFM (this was more a cut-out rather than a missfire). Resoldered cracked connections. There\'ll probably be CEL\'s if it\'s this. Misc other ignition issues & fixe
  12. The primary wastegate vac line is fed directly from the primary compressor housing. Somewhere on that vac line will be a t-junction that runs off to the boost-control solenoid (the thing that\'s gone wrong) in the passenger side guard. The return line from this solenoid goes in to the primary air intake before it reaches the primary compressor. The way it works is that your primary turbo produces pressure, which is fed directly to the wastegate and activates it when wastegate pressure is reached. The boost-control solenoid "vents" some pressure away and so delays how soon the wastegate is act
  13. Don\'t rebuild for the hell of it. Use your money to either do the single conversion now OR save it to cover the rebuild if/when your engine does go. Rebuild > 2nd hand unknown condition engine imo. My TT engine lasted well past 300km before it gave up so you have plenty of life left in it to save up and consider your options. If you want to rebuild then you can look around for a good block with reasonably round bores. Find some older EJ20 pistons too as they have longer skirts and will keep the build cost down (plus they\'re probably an upgrade) if you\'re concerned.
  14. Stuff you should do to make it go better (aka run normally): - Coils (if they haven\'t been done already they\'re old! On to my 3rd set now) - Plugs - Fuel pump, including wiring-in a new relay and power cable. The factory loom builds up significant resistance which reduces the current the pump can draw, limiting fuelling. Upgrades: - Exhaust, especially a larger bore to the secondary turbo can add some fun - Single turbo is possible, could be a big wiring job though depending on your ECU Hit me up for a ECU chip if you stick with the TT setup
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