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Hi guys, been on this forum for some time but I'm not a regular user. Just a quick intro, my name's Manny and I drive a '06 BP5 - VERY HAPPY WITH IT I'm hoping someone can point in the right direction. Has anyone swapped out their front seats? My drivers seat is worn and there is a hole in it, rather than getting the seat re-upholstered it appears to be more cost efficient to just swap it out. I know there will be a few bolts to undo but is there anything I need to look out for? Is it fairly straight forward? In other cars I've owned there have been airbag connections under the seat. I found a Youtube video for the rear seat, but couldn't find anything helpful for the front ones. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Hi Team, I've been troubleshooting an issue for awhile with my O2 AFM. Symptoms is delayed reading of the O2 sensor after startup. Brand new 4 wire O2 sensor has been installed after the last one appeared intermittent. After starting the car it will read at 14.7 for between 8-10mins on average then seems to work as expected. First we thought that it might be an issue with the heater. Jason (gotasuby) and I did some tests and found the ECU wasn't providing an earth for the heater. After shorting the heater circuit to ground to force it to heat we found the ECU still didn't take a reading from the sensor. We were alternating the heater circuit on and off but didn't want to do it for a long period of time to avoid any damage. Can any other 07~ owners let me know if they have noticed similar behaviour on theirs ? Mine will do this regardless if its a cold start or a hot start.

The viscous coupling in my legacy 3.0R 6spd MT is on its way out, Binds when turning. I was wondering who on here has had the joy of replacing theres and who did you buy it from. I have a price from the local dealer, part only they want a staggering $1500+gst. The same bit out of Sydney is AU $899 and $80 postage, Cheaper but there will be duty on top of that. So i'm hopeing there is some where in NZ that has them for a reasnoble price. Thanks

I have a set of four (4) brand new 1000cc FIC injectors for sale as build plans have changed and these are no longer needed. Direct Fit for the Factory Fuel Rail for the following Subaru: Subaru WRX, 2000-2014. Subaru Legacy GT, 2007-2012. Subaru STI, 2007-2015 (Models with EJ20T Motor). Price: $480 Shipping: $5.50 tracked, non rural. Located in East Auckland (Botany) for pick up. Best way to contact me is via mobile (021 169 3111).

Hi all Im doing a turbo engine swap into a currently non turbo tx-s legay. Im hoping some body here can give me some pointers on loom stuff and what route I could take to carry this out. The engine is a twin turbo ej 20 running a single turbo setup. The engine is complete and has the loom upto the plugs that go through the fire wall. I have a v3 sti Ecu which according to the seller was running the engine well. My question is though what would be my best option for the wiring harness through the fire wall? Could I get another harness from a turbo car and run that through the car or should I pull apart the harness from the non turbo I have and add in the missing wires for the ecu? Or am I completely off track? Any and all input is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

was just ringing out second gear in my twin turbo legacy and as pushing in the clutch from secondary turbo the car made an odd metal sound and stalled straight away, now check engine light is (check steering light was flashing for a bit but has now gone off) on and the cars running rough as, can anyone tell me whats happened? cheers

hey i have a 2000 gtb legacy fairly stock STRAIGHT PIPE 150 thou ks, ive heard that this type of legacy/b4's dont really like grassys/ getting sideways.. is this true haha dont want to **** my diff or something. but ive found this great flat grass patch and i really want to hit it. cheers, -Johnny Det

Hey Club Sub members, greetings! As my first post I'd like to ask for some advice... Just as a preface, I'm great with IT & computers, cars and audio electrical, not so much... I've recently bought a 2006 Legacy Wagon (B-Sport 2ltr). Sadly, it came with the factory Kenwood head unit and factory speakers. I bought one of these yesterday and installed it without a hitch: http://www.jonvy.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=4447&search=subaru It works really well. I generally just play music/podcasts from my phone, so it's perfect. I opened up one of the front doors next to check out the speakers. They're the horrible looking cardboard factory jobs. I have a couple of cheapish sets of 6" JVC speakers I've had sitting round for a while I want to install. I believe I need these: http://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/product/speaker-spacers/706/no905-universal-spacer-6/151234/detail , as the factory speakers have their own attached plastic spacer thingie. They also have the factory plug that connects to the cabling that goes back to the head unit. I have a couple of questions: - are those the correct spacers? They look to be the right size, shape to me. I'm guessing I may need to drill a couple more holes in them to fit the speakers perfectly. - How do I go about wiring the new speakers in to the plug currently in the vehicle. Does anyone know of a place that sells an adapter? As you can guess I'm not 100% confident in this, but I do want to learn. And I don't want to pay a car audio place to install when it doesn't appear to be that difficult. thanks!

In lieu of a new Technical board structure being implemented soon, here are the workings for the new FAQ posts to replace all technical stickies, and hopefully most of your searches. This is a temporary post because it isn't helping anyone locked away while I'm too busy to finish it. Please post additional useful links as a new post for a Mod to add to the list. Mods, I've tried to categorise things logically and keep double-ups to a minimum. PM me any questions. Cheers, kamineko INFORMATIONAL Documents Every JDM brochure - @chappell943 SUBARU PARTS CATALOGUE - @B4 2000 Workshop Manuals Workshop Service Manuals - Stoffa Gen 1 Legacy workshop manual - @slystiguy Gen 3 and 4 workshop manuals - @paulngui Legacy 1998-2003 Service Manual (GEN III incl RSK/GT) - @suubyduuby Workshop manual BE/BH 2003MY. Covers TT 4442 pages by Fuji Heavy Industries - @Rosssub FORESTER 1999-2002 Workshop Manual - @luvmaforzzy pdf Engine manual for a Ej20t Dohc - subaru-mania Vacuum Diagrams and Solenoid Placements for WRX - Swindog Gadget Manuals Programming Keyless Entry Info All Legacy GT/b's Installation manuals (Timers/Controllers etc) - @Joker Zero Sports Sequential Controller DIY translation - @nncoolg G4 pdf manual - evowrx GFB G-Force 2 Boost Controller Manual Gizzmo Ibc Manual Model Codes & Specifications Impreza WRX Classic Model Codes - kamineko JDM WRX ECUS - kamineko JDM WRX Brake setups - kamineko Factory Power/Torque/Kerb Weights for all GC/GF Models. - thorpy How to decipher model/chassis codes (JDM vehicles) - boostin Legacy JDM Legacy applied model codes - readosnr Legacy BL BP info - subieboy Forester JDM Forester applied model codes -readosnr Engine ECU basics from ScoobyMods including reset & CEL Reading procedures V3/4 Sti Shim under aftermarket valves Part Numbers - @thorpy Intercooler and Other Related FAQ's - @Swindog Turbo Subaru Turbo System explained - @Stoffa Turbo FAQ's - @Swindog More IHI Turbo specs - @Shale Drivetrain Manual Transmission Ratios - By @Johnnynz Subaru Gearbox Chart V2 - @GC8E2DD Subaru Gearbox Code Chart Electrical Full list of fault codes - @boostin Check Engine Light CEL Codes - @kamineko Subaru ABS Fault Codes Power Light Fault Codes (Automatic Transmission) - arsenal69 Wiring guides and pinouts - @ReubenH ECU Pinouts BC5 BG5a WRX (4 plug) pinouts V7 STI ECU Diagram jollygreenmonster.com ECU pinouts Speed sensor pinout - @gotasuby

Found something broken, converted to parallel until I can replace said part (secondary bypass valve thing) and thought I\'d put this up, the internet makes it seem like such a hard job - it isn\'t. Changing oil takes longer. First off - this is the *Free* way to do this, takes you 20 minutes, and is 100% reversible in the same amount of time (you don\'t even need to cut any hoses, nothing). It will not be as good as a dedicated setup (with parallel headers etc) and not as good again as a single setup - however there\'s a lot to be said for cost. All this is doing is short-cutting the TT system to lock it into the same arrangement as is normal above 4500, so no you will do the car no damage and have nothing to lose. Secondly - if I\'ve gotten things wrong, please tell me. The reason I wrote this up is when googling for the diagram smurff put up years ago (which is down the bottom) I just found link after link of people either asking how to do it, know-it-alls going on about "I think it\'d be terrible, just convert to single turbo" without trying it, or people thinking it was a horrendous job of re-wiring, replumbing and confusion. You can make up your own mind about how it drives, some love it, some think it\'s a pig - I put some examples at the end of how mine drives. So first thing: Loosen off the heat shield on the secondary turbo. You don\'t need to remove it outright - just take off the two bolts on top and the one down close to the chassis rail. There\'s a bastard of one tucked underneath, but once you remove those 3 you can tilt it right back. Yay now you have access to the exhaust valve actuator rod - notice how it\'s threaded? Slightly off topic you can noticably change the behavior of the car by lengthening and shortening this rod, bit of trial and error but you can improve VOD and secondary spool a bit, bit of a balancing act. ANYWAY - unscrew this right out. It\'s a reverse thread, and the locking nuts can get pretty stuck on there too. Keep winding until the little hexagonal rod falls off, or hopefully you grabbed it before it fell and got stuck in the steering rack. Now it\'s pretty tight, but try and wire the bottom half of the rod down, basically rod down = valve open. It holds itself down anyway but may as well keep it there. IF you were doing this permanently, you would either remove the valve, or make a new up-pipe. The piping guide at the bottom suggests tricking the car into permanently opening it with pressure - I just took the short cut. Now put the heat shield back on. There is a vacuum hose going to this valve - this is the one which opens and closes the secondary turbo off from the intercooler outlet. It\'s held closed by vacuum... So pull the hose off, its spring loaded to stick open. Done. In theory you now have the TT system stuck open. (Oh yeah, block the hose off) Last thing - you need to block the secondary dump valve OR tee it into your other BOV, it\'s the relief valve the TT system uses to pre-spool the secondary (the hose which runs from secondary turbo, to a plastic arm, then a black thing which is just a BOV but not used as one... sort of). Mine has a massive bolt in the hose (cause I\'m redneck bro) and this is temporary, what you are MEANT to do is to tee it into the main BOV line. I would have, but this thing being snapped is the reason I did this in the first place so uh.. yeah. In theory you can now go for a drive, and then watch the check engine light come on after the first few times you floor it. Reason being - the ECU in these things has a MAP sensor with the sole job of watching for boost to be on just primary, then on both to make sure the TT system is functioning correctly. One side of it goes after the intercooler valve and is watching primary boost, the other is in the plastic arm to the secondary relief valve thing. Luckily here\'s something Subaru prepared earlier - the hose which goes to the TOP of the exhaust valve actuator conveniently has nothing coming through it until about 4 grand when it starts to get boost through it. You unplug this - and instead join it to the hose going to the map sensor. Pro photo mid-work below - if you\'ve replaced your hoses with pretty ones, the hose you use is the back one of the two running up the firewall. Blank off the hose which ran from the plastic arm bit, it has no use now. The hose to the top of the ECV is number 8, and the one to the MAP sensor is number 22. FYI the one to the bottom of the ECV gets vacuum only as a way of being able to half-open the valve. Now that is literally it - there is no messing around with wiring, if you want to undo this (and to be honest it\'s quite likely you will) you just reverse what has been done. Just don\'t burn your hands. So - how does it drive - whats the benefits and why would you do this? I don\'t know if my car is a prime example but here\'s what I have found anyway - it\'s laggy and the long legs the legacy got makes things worse. Best comparison I can give is it\'s similar to an 1.8L GSR with a TD05, pretty doughy down low but worth it once it wakes up. Basically feels n/a below 3500. 5th gear @ 3k (100kph ish) gets you about 0.5-0.6 bar boost and a corresponding lack of speed. Dropping to fourth at the same speed (about 4 grand?) it will hit about 1 bar in around a second - in comparison with it TT it would spool the primary, hit VOD in an instant and then start to spool. From a standing start or dropping back a gear on the move it (parallel) canes the TT (sequential) setup as it just wakes both up, however say goodbye to getting a kick from booting it in second on a roll like you used to. I haven\'t driven something with one of the z/s sequential controllers on - so can\'t comment on how it compares to that. The sound is drastically changed - it has a hint of the normal burble at idle but to be fair it sounds like ass until it starts to get some boost into it. Not much different to tuned length headers or a non turbo suby I guess - once it does get some boost on board I love it, sounds like nothing else. IF I was to carry on with this I\'d be looking to get some proper headers and downpipes for it and try to improve the spool up, mine still has factory downpipes including primary cat which won\'t be helping matters. You *could* look to use a V5/6 ecu as per a normal single conversion - and that\'d make sense to do - but isn\'t quite so reversable and involves spending $$ (I understand there is a difference in CR 8.5 / 9.0 between STi and B4?). If you could get the spool up improved a bit it\'d be a pretty sweet way to do things. I have seen it mentioned that some remove (and block off) the joiner pipe which connects left and right banks - the problem there is that you lose boost control to the 2ndry turbo - at the moment when the single WG on the primary vents, it\'s dumping gas from the whole manifold hence why it works just fine. I get absolutely 0 spiking or flickering on boost with the way things are now. In terms of outright speed - pass? 0-100 times are a bit hard to compare, 0-400m won\'t happen with this car - I timed it at under 3.5 sec 80-120k so it\'s got pace enough for me at least. To do this to a BG/BD it is effectively the same - not sure if the hoses are numbered the same, but where they run to and from is. I\'ve tried and tried to get it to throw a CEL at me but so far so good, things seem happy (touch wood). Here\'s the diagrams as well - only thing I do different is not doing anything with the ECV hoses. Writing this post up took me 3 times as long but I know some find a diagram way way harder to follow than just a photo. Anyway - have fun