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About tweedo

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  1. Hey all, I'm in the process of trying to get steering wheel controls working with an aftermarket head unit in my 2004 Legacy. It just so happens that mum and dads Legacy has the exact setup that I want so I flogged the wheel out of it and checked that cruise control and the audio controls would work before buying the gear myself for the retrofit. Cruise control works an absolute treat so will definitely be doing that either way but I just cannot, for the life of me, figure out how to get the audio controls working. I've done so much research which led me to a purple/white and an orange/white wire under the steering column to connect to the plug that came with my head unit. Neither of those wires have been run in my car but the wires that are opposite them in the plug leading from the steering wheel are there so I have tapped into them with no luck though. They are a green/red and a white wire which I have led to input 1 and the ground wire of the steering remote cable for the headunit. Ok, time to stop rambling now. Hopefully that makes sense to someone out there who can point me in the right direction. As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.
  2. For those of you who haven't seen it yet... You're welcome.
  3. Thread reboot time! This stuff proving to be up to it? I opted for some RAT Mat from an outfit in Geraldine thinking it was reasonably priced, looked pretty decent stuff and is also only a day courier away (to Dunedin)... that was a week and a half ago and still no sign of it. Finally managed to get an answer out of them today as to what the go is saying it'll be 3 weeks away and I can either wait or get a refund. Has anyone here actually used the stuff? I really just want to know if it'll be worth the wait more than anything or do I go the Trademe route? Just can't justify the price of Dynamat, I'm afraid. Any input, as always, is appreciated.
  4. Interested in hearing what has come of the situation... any updates?
  5. No worries Dean. I can't remember exactly what it cost me in the end (was awhile ago now) but was somewhere in the vicinity of $500 for both. As far as tuning of the autos is concerned I'm not sure as mine is a manual but there are obviously still good gains to be made, even without extras... (but better gains with). It may be worth having a yarn to @Invisible as he's been through all of this with his auto. If you feel like a bit of light reading, have a squizz here... May be worth asking a question there too.
  6. Hey there, I really can't offer a whole lot of advice but I can say where NOT to go and that's APET here in Dunedin. Unless you want an undrivable bit of shite that chews through petrol like it's going out of fashion (even though they claimed it would be more economical) and is really only tuned for all out power, then I would steer well clear. After learning the hard way I ended up buying a Tactrix cable and getting an E-tune done via Dave at Cryotune, which I think is an awesome way of doing things if you want to learn a little yourself and nets you some great results too. I'm sure there'll be others that will back me up on that too. It seems that one of your only local options would be Rapid Performance in Timaru, which I know nothing about but have heard good things about and going off their FB page they look like they know what they're up to. Hope this helps but hopefully some of the more knowledgeable will pipe up and offer some advice. Good luck!
  7. Does seem very weird to me too mate... this all has me fairly puzzled. I've been testing the main wire and grounds via this guide here... Thanks heaps for the offer too Andy, you're a champion. I will get someone to have a closer, more in depth look at it this week sometime hopefully and let you know if I will need it or not.
  8. Kia ora guys, (seems fitting seeing it's Waitangi day) Updates on the issue... Took it into a local audio installer that I deal with and he said he would've done exactly what I have done so far to check for issues and couldn't really shed anymore light on the situation. Have checked that power antenna is getting 12v, which it is. Have checked resistance on all grounds and adaptors, they are all fine too. Checked resistance on the coaxial cable running from the head unit right to the power antenna and found that there is about an 8ohm resistance in this cable which, to me, means that there is a breakdown somewhere along the line, as it should be close to 0. Reading that the rubber boot between the cabin and the tailgate can sometimes be a breaking point I checked this out and the readings were fine there. Which means that the cable between the back of the cabin, along the headliner and into the back of the headunit is bung somewhere along the way, does it not? So now that I roughly know what the issue is, what would people's suggestions be that I do? Can these coaxial cables be repaired or do they need replaced? As always, any input would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Can't, for the life of me figure out what is causing the issue guys, so I'm leaving it to the professionals. Will report back once I get it all sorted.
  10. Hey guys, Going to be requiring a Cert fairly soon and wondering where people go/recommend here in Dunaz? Cheers!
  11. I replaced the whole lot back to the grey Subaru plug, doing away with the intermediate connection (Nissan connection) altogether, thinking that this was where the issue was steming from, but it seems not. This is what I used...
  12. Hey all, Got the adaptor fitted and tested this arvo and.... it's a failed result. Reception is no better with this one than with the other in its previous state (before I flipped it round 180°). So its back to the drawing board I guess. I'm thinking, like you said, Andy, that maybe this original adaptor is a piece of crap and that it may be worth replacing that but I'll see what Wavetech come back and say to my email. If anyone can offer anymore suggestions, please feel free!
  13. My thoughts exactly, @Andy_Mac. I'm not even going to bother for the price of the adaptor, it's a no brainer on which way to go.
  14. The prongs are on the Subaru side of things (they were what went into the back of the McIntosh). And going off what's listed on Wavetechs site they will be identical to Nissan ones anyway. Flipped it 180° like you suggested, @Andy_Mac and stations definitely come through a little stronger but I have to tweak to just the right spot and tape it in place to get it to stay that way. And now Hauraki, which was one of the better ones before, is pretty much non existent so I will get the other one ordered and fitted and report back. Thanks everyone for your help!
  15. Finally got the bugger pulled out today and here's the situation guys. Goes from the factory Subaru grey plug to the 2 pronged 'Nissan' adaptor then into the stereo. Should I axe the 2 prong part of the connection and just get the adaptor mentioned in the previous posts? Been trying to post a photo of it for the last hour and having no luck at all but I'm sure you guys know what I'm on about haha Edit... Finally figured it out, really quite simple in the end.