magicalpaua

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About magicalpaua

  • Rank
    Learner License

Personal Information

  • Drives :
    WRX STi v3 Type-RA, Volkswagen R36 Wagon, Mitsubishi Ralliart Colt
  • Interests
    Cars, Computers & Cooking (oh, and any other gadget)
  • Location
    Wellington
  • Occupation
    IT
  1. Thanks for offer, planning to cruise over with a buddy he'll be in his MY16 sti. I'll be in my v3. Look out for a black new vs. white old... Lol, nah we take it easy and enjoy the cruise and burble...
  2. Sounds like a great excuse to get the ra out. Just better take with a jerry of 98
  3. I'd love to try another controller to rule that out. Pretty expensive (unless I score a loaner unit) when it could be something electrical in the gbox itself. Might locate the dccd controller this weekend and check it as I haven't done that yet. What is the most common fault on the classic dccd? I keep reading about coil faults and wiring failures in the box.
  4. Hey thanks for the generous offer - my apologies for only just responding now. I'm not running stock ECU (Link G4) and do not have access to the original V3 unit. I'm guessing this would probably prevent any error codes being read off anyway whether using OBDII or not. Also, I'm Wellington based, an not often in Auck.
  5. Yeah, I've been unsuccessful trying to get the procedure on that. Any links or how to would be appreciated greatly..
  6. Hi, running out of ideas for an annoying problem with my DCCD. My V3 RA with DCCD classic gets a flashing DCCD light on dash, has been happening since the g/box oil was replaced, but suspect that just made an existing problem worse (check my other post) It faults on IGN on, very quick light up LOCK and then "click" blinking on OPEN (last O on dash), rolling switch does nothing, DCCD feels like in OPEN mode - which I think is to be expected on fault. Occasionally, once its been warmed for a while, I get 20 secs or so when DCCD does not fault. Scroll works, dash lights work, mechanically is "feels" like the DCCD is working, handbrake light on seems to disengage however this lasts for around 20 seconds and then will go to fault again. I've reseated the 6 pin harness on top of gearbox housing - looked fine, and wiggled/degreased wiring that leads into the gearbox itself whilst up on a mates hoist. I've also disconnect battery for long enough to clear any fault in the DCCD Controller (unsure if this did anything) and checked g/box oil level is good. I believe V3 DCCD isn't as complex as later models, ie, not ABS sensors or steering angle sensors but any ideas what I could try next? My feeling is its electrical and most likely inside the g/box, but appreciate any insight. Thanks
  7. Update on this gearbox horror story... Good News... vertex swapped out for Motul 300LS and this has completely changed the drive. Front is now much less binding and sounds almost silent, back to how is was but with better gear selection. Very happy so far... however.. Bad news... My DCCD light is not working... Shortly after the vertex oil was used, I noticed an occasional DCCD indicator flash "some might say - flashing green "O"..." and the scroll not changing dash light (when flashing of course). This happened maybe 2 or 3 times after running the vertex stuff, but was reset and okay after a stop/start. Then, I had it tuned and was run up a few times on full lock on the dyno, since then, solid DCCD flash on IGN. I know orange is not advisable on tarmac and lock would be crazy.. but I have "momentarily tested" various settings on the road (when the DCCD flash first started those couple of times to try figure out WTF is going on) - is this enough to damage it? - but other than that, its only ever set to OPEN or one click up (still green) My limited understanding is that the DCCD flash could mean a number of potential causes, DCCD scroller, DCCD controller, handbrake sensor, dash, wiring to DCCD unit itself. Also steering angle sensor and ABS, however I don't think mine has either of those, definitely no ABS. I understand the DCCD itself is relatively simple (an electromagnet) but there seems to be a number of bits to make it all work. After swapping vertex for Motul, I'd hoped that the flashing would stop.. I know, wishful thinking... it hasn't. I've since disconnected battery, left off for 24hrs, and was excited to see it didn't instantly go from orange LOCK lite, to green O flash, flash on IGN, instead, for the first time since tuning... it stayed solid until I drove 200m down the road... However there is a slight improvement since the battery disconnect reset, although it mainly jumps straight to flashing on IGN.. BUT very occasionally, will not instantly flash. It somehow managed to not flash long enough for me to prove that the scroll works, dash lights work with the scroll setting, and it mechanically feels like its functioning "slow figure 8's in gravel in LOCK" and she felt like its locked to me - which I think proves its not a failed fuse or relay and the handbrake unbinds/unlocks when in LOCK proving that the handbrake sensor is okay. So I have hope its not completely stuffed. I had a feeling that switching on IGN on an incline helped it to not instantly flash giving me a chance to begin trial and error tests, but seems to be more my imagination than fact, and it really does seem random when the flash stops long enough to left me test things. Anyway... not sure what the next step is, to me it feels like a loose wire, bad earth somewhere that possibly a result of the feedback (shuddering) when running Vertex. BTW, The people who swapped the gear oil over tried to get diag codes "ie count the flashes" off the DCCD controller/ECU but failed to get it to provide them. So, any info, insight, links to how to get DCCD codes off a TY752VB5CA, or wiring diagram for V3 Type-RA DCCD would be highly appreciated... Thanks
  8. I haven't check the level but will do this shortly. I was told that this type of oil will help improve the gear engagement (which is what was the reason for the service) and will also create more friction in front diff causing the plates to "stick" more, therefore making the front end more active. I also have a bit of a crunch on 3rd, so this was a way to ease that a bit. FWIW - its a TY752VB5CA, which has open front diff according to http://www.gearhack.com/myink/ViewPage.php?file=docs/Subaru Transmission Chart. So maybe I need to go have another chat to them.
  9. Hmmm... The service was done at a local g/box place, I took it back initially as it felt like something wasn't right, and left again thinking (convinced) it's expected with this type of oil... I think the product they've used is http://www.lubenz.co.nz/gear-and-differential-oil/642-transgear-syn-fe-75w90.html. The retail price for 5lt is close to what they charged me. I'm pretty sure its the oil since its noticeable once it warms up, also I noticed it after picking it up from service, like the drive home... seems too coincidental for a mechanical (or electrical) fault to occur, unless the oil has caused it immediately. Also, didn't mention above, straight line driving is quiet, its just cornering mainly at low speed (like its on lock or near lock). Faster around the corner, the quieter.
  10. Greetings Has anyone run Vertex 75w90 in their classic dccd? I've recently had my v3 sti-ra serviced with this and not sure about the results. It feels like dccd is on orange all the time. Lots of noise coming from the centre diff under low load around town but only once it warms up I'm tempted to drain it out and go back to some standard oil but it cost me a bit... 😕 Interested if anyone else has a similar experience