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THUNDA last won the day on December 6

THUNDA had the most liked content!

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620 my mum says I'm cool.


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  • Drives :
    91 BC5 RS
  1. Theres an Auckland fuel tax? costs me $100/$120 to fill up my RS with 98, last about 350kms my diesel turbo ute gets roughly 700-800kms out of a $60 tank ! Gogo diesel for roadtrippin!
  2. Yup I wouldnt worry about it man, 95 = all good
  3. Its a personal preference thing, I knew my EWG wouldnt make a difference in power when I first got it, but it was one of my favorite things I got installed (at the time of installation) These days im sort of getting over it, because I cant even boost a little without causing a scene lol, even fire shoots out of it sometimes (mate got a vid of me at taupo and these was flames) As for its legality, yes its illegal, venting fumes to the atmosphere at the front of the car makes your car unsafe, it has to vent at the rear of the car (**using all my strength to not make a sarcastic comment) Im into 80s-90s turbo cars, and imo a little part of me thinks they suit the Atmos EWG Newer cars dont really suit it I rekon - I mean, an atmos EWG on a new sti would be gross imo
  4. It could be a lot of things. But if your idle was fine before - Then turning up may help but you wouldn't have solve the route of the problem. Ie if their was a small vac leak, you could turn the idle up to fix it, but if the leak got worse, you'll start having issues elsewhere
  5. Youll find lots lots of different opinions on EWG setups here Youll have cast exhaust manifolds so they are pretty easy to work with, there is a piece of your mani just before the uppipe most people pop off and weld the EWG flange on. Make sure you get someone good at welding to do the welds or you'll be repairing cracks all the time. If you want to vent to Atmo, that's pretty much all the customising work you'll have to do other than boost/vac line related setting up the above setup will mean you'll have problems getting WOFs, and police will be extra nosey if they see you gating around If you want to run it so it plumbs back in you'll have to fab up a return pipe that goes back into your downpipe. Lots of different options. You will be able to get wofs with this option For keeping the internal gate shut, you can sometimes get away with just unplugging the vac line completely. Or a little tack weld on the outside where the actuator arm meets the gates leg? (For lack of a better name) a 38mm EWG should do just a heads up though an EWG won't net you more power with your current setup before or after a tune It will however sound very racecar and in turn be glorious
  6. Probably a single vacuum leak among many many vacuum lines
  7. Looks good to me Imo its best to run BP 98, but because your car isnt a racecar I think 95octane will be totally fine, ive seen subarus run on 91 their whole lives with no issues, its just how you drive them/how well maintained your car is that causes damage
  8. I wouldn't worry about that Sure there may be debris in the very bottom of your fuel tank, but its unlikely it would ever interfere with the fuel pump whether your tank is full or empty My RS is about $110 to fill up from close to empty with BP 98 So for $50-$60 that picture above looks pretty accurate
  9. You're easily pleased! Theres probably a billion of that exact specification on trademe
  10. Oh sweet, yeah that makes much more sense
  11. I probably wouldnt drop it down to 2nd at 100km/h, but i regularly redline to every gear on a track day, think the end of 3rd gets me to 150km/h Pretty sure you wont get the benefits of both turbos at the same time ever, iirc they come on seperately Wouldnt it be perfectly set up so you can overtake in 5th? 5th gear at 100km/h should be around 3krpm which would be when the 1st turbo is at a nice power level? if its auto just floor it when you want to overtake? the trans will no what to do
  12. Car isnt cold but when I went into the link software yesterday is said IAT was 23* pretty close to yesturdays ambient temp I guess - Its relatively new also but will double check once car has cooled down I'm booked in at PBMS for 10am friday to get my cold and hot idles tweaked a little (running abit rough on idle both hot and cold, on hot sometimes cutting out) Car idles great with cyclic idle on so i just use that if im waiting at lights for ages (cyclic idle sounds more stable than normal idle at the mo lol) My FMIC is from FENIX - did alot of reading before I went with the fenix brand and i trust its doing a great job (from memory its only a 550 wide cooler so not your usual 600mm - another reason why I went with fenix when upgrading to a big boy radiator. Also the ic piping locations mean the hot pipe comming straight off the turbo sits directly below the intake on the throttle body, there are lots of little things i can adjust which will help quite alot overall, currently installing a radiator slam panel (just modifying it to work around my p/s pipes)
  13. Turns out it was IAT getting too hot which caused the "GP Limit 1" to kick in Looks like ill have to get a CAI sorted :B and maybe some sprayers an d modify some i/c piping Will be going ahead with oil cooling mods also
  14. Yeah it turns out my car wasn't getting too hot (max 95*) which I'm stoked about, have sent pl0x the tune file so we should know soon what the gp limit is, my cold and normal opp temp idle is terrible at the mo (fluctuating/stalls) so it will need to go back to pbms for a little tickle I think. Will be good to know what the gp limit is so they can't adjust it while I'm there Running great other than that now that my exhaust leak and temp gauges are sorted. Havnt thrashed it anywhere near close enough for any limits to kick in and won't until next track day Yup just got it back today so have it handy
  15. Everything is brand new and water pump will definitely be genuine - Ajay fitted it and I trust his work. picking it up tomorrow so will be adding an oil cooler, slam panel for radiator and forwarding my tune to pl0x Taupo has a play day on the 16th so will probably head down there again