THUNDA

Battery tests fine, no resistance between battery posts when its disconnected from the car i only get resistance of 15ohms when i disconnect the +ve lead and test between +ve lead (not battery post) and negative lead but yeah i realise thats f***ed haha, thats why as soon as i tested it i was like arrrrrrrr that not good Yeah i might just order a new alternator to rule it out - heres hoping i can find one haha

Yup high idle when cord start / turning on lights and ac etc IACV resistance between each coil and earth 10ohms, coil to coil 16ohms unplugging ecu doesnt change the resistance leak to earth ill do some more fuse pulling on the weekend, could even be something as simple as an oily sensor plug... this car doesnt have any oil leaks but hell im willing to try anything haha

Will check after work tomorrow Idle stepper motor - do you mean the IACV ? ive been hesitant to even touch this incase i cause another electrical fault haha, but yeah ill check it tomorrow arvo

Small update - after trying for an hour to track down the resistance reading I can only get 2 circuits to change the resistance reading (resistance between +ve and -ve terminals with battery disconnected is 22kOhm) is when i unplug the alternator (at the 5plug) as soon as i unplug the alternator it changes resistance to 33kOhm, and the second one is the big wire fuse in the engine bay fuse box, when i unplug that it breaks the circuit - which is great but doesnt help me narrow it down I tested alternator by running car with all lights and AC on and it produced 14.4Volts easy I really dont want to take it to a workshop, im not sure whats happening to the industry but every time i take it to a workshop it comes back with damage, even the guys who did my clutch kit threaded one of the gearbox bolts -_ -

1 - My TPS is the 4Plug A22-000R25 Ive tested them using the resistance method, i know which wires are IDLE SW / GND / 5+ from ECU / SIGNAL to ECU looked for a smooth resistance signal while rotating the actuator on bench test all 3 TPS didnt have any jumping or skipping in resistance - but yes this is definitely a factor - also to note after clearing the code it usually comes back when on low throttle / coasting Note: The resistance in all 3 TPS sensors Start around 2.4hms at Closed Throttle, then they all go up to around 3.0ohms, then down to around 1.3ohms at wide open throttle 2 - TPS installation procedure - I feel I have tried every procedure - but stuck to the book, even made live adjustments with the car running (this is how i got rid of the idle switch fault code) Voltages IDLE SW - 40MV Closed 4.87V Open +VE from ECU - 5.18V TPS Send to ECU wire - 4.75V Closed 0.89V Open 3 - Yes connector is clean but does feel a little loose, ill try tighten it up I tested all the wires from the TPS that lead to the ECU, found a great ECU pinout which made it easy as Ran a wire from TPS connector outside the car to near the ecu so i could test resistance, and the SIGNAL wire had a resistance of 1.6Ohm so i replaced the wire with new, now 0.006 Ohm, all other TPS wires at ecu tested 0.006-0.008ohms 4 - I carried out the same test this morning (cold) and got completely different results compared to when i checked last night while car was still hot - i put a rag under the terminal and got 20 Killa Ohms between positive and negative terminals - so thats very high resistance but still some potential there which is a little weird, comparing it to my ute there is no potential between positive and negative - i gave the earth terminal a clean + sand and battery post a clean + sand and now have 0.0001ohms so i have lowered the earths resistance and it is uniform when tested around the engine

Heya Team Been chasing an electrical issue in my BC5 thats driving my crazy I have 2 issues which I think are related to each other Issue 1 - I Keep getting a code 43 (which from my research is TPS) - Have replaced the TPS 3 Times, with TPS's that bench test fine, resistance testing found the wire that the sensor uses to send info the the ecu had 1.6ohm resistance compared to the power feed from the Ecu to the tps which was 0.006ohms so i replaced it, every time after resetting the codes it throws code 43 after a few minutes of driving, this is the old TPS with the built in idle switch, idle switch tests fine and does not throw idle switch code 42 Issue 2 - I have continuity between my positive and negative battery leads (wtf?) low resistance I tested the same test on my ute and there is no continuity between my battery leads Was thinking maybe the alternator could be damaged somehow, as I havnt seen it put out more than 13.4V but i do leave my battery on a trickle charger so I guess the alternator doesnt have much to do in terms of needing the make power Any suggestions would be great I have an awesome multimeter now so just need to be pointed in the right direction ive spent hours over the past few weekends under the hood / fuse box area (Note: I have found fault code lists that say 2 different codes for TPS, one code says TPS is 31 Throttle Position Sensor or Circuit and 43 Throttle Switch and another says 43 TPS and 31 nothing

Yup got mine off trademe in the end from Ledbits2012 Rang around lots of places and no-one seemed to know what the part was, infact im noticing more and more that parts businesses have less and less on hand knowledge and rely totaly on their what their computer tells them then i spoke to the guy at Ledbits and he pretty much said alot of the o2 sensors will work as they are all pretty similar I got a 3plug one that worked fine with my ecu but the plug didnt match so i just cut and soldiered my old plug to it and its been mint since Flew through a WOF yesterday - man i love this Legacy as its in such good nick getting wofs isnt a headache and i must say I LOVE the tein suspension, I dont even have to slow down for speed bumps, a great ride and very high quality suspension BUT I need to source a TPS (A22-000R25) was hoping to find one locally but nothing so far >_ <

Now getting Code 43 Throttle switch fault Arrrr I’m starting to remember why I tried not to drive my old one haha, nothing breaks if you don’t drive them

IAC Resistance Middle Pin (12V Feed) to Either side pin = 8.8Ohms Right hand Pin to Left hand Pin = 18.6Ohms Its weird because the check engine light comes on after coasting/decel, but now if i put my foot on the clutch and let the revs drop to idle the check engine light goes away and we are back to full power again I put some CRC on the thing that sticks up after you remove the IAC Sensor and its super free / no jamming, i know there is a diaphram inside though maybe Its sticky or something, might just time to pull it off and give it a clean out Installed a new fuel filter today just because they were only $35 and the one in their looked at least 10 years old

Yup you are correct I just didn’t have the time to check when I had the bonnet up, was easy to check the middle wire feed in situe when ac comes on revs go low for a second then back up to normal, same with when radiator fans kick on. It’s working normally, it just faults after deceleration- I’m thinking it might just be gummed up inside the actual IAC valve but the spinny thing on top moves freely when I remove the sensor. Parry spares has a whole IAC so I’m gonna order that regardless as I’d like a spare

Hmmm yeah not sure, when car is on the IAC sensor receives 13.8v on the middle wire which is normal I think. It only faults when I decelerate for a long period (I.e down a hill) then it goes into low power when I accelerate more than half throttle the first time after the deceleration, then the check light turns off and it drives fire until the next deceleration

codes cleared took it for a drive and code 24 popped up again after about 10minutes, wouldn’t let me boost fully and went all slowy Idle Air Control looks like I’ll be pulling it out this weekend

Thank youuuiu 🙏

I managed to find an o2 locally, fitted sweet and plug matched, $100, looks like it come from aliexpress originally haha. arrived today. Installed it and took it for a drive. No check engine light, but the codes still showing when checking ecu memory, I’ve forgotten how to clear codes on the obd1 system. So I can clear codes and take it for a long drive to see if anything pops up. I’ve got green plugs and clear plugs under the steering wheel. clear plugs together shows the codes through the flashing check engine light, green plugs together doing nothing. Am I forgetting something?

22690AA700 Has a different plug from 👀 my at photos ox336 is one of the part numbers I’ve found that look the same in the pics 💯🙏

Thanks man You’re a legend ! the one that’s in there is a 3wire/pin ill order the part direct from a subaru supplier ❤️

Had a check engine light today - yay - however I’m quite used to this haha - codes are 24 / 32 / 33 looks like It needs the ISC cleaned out / replaced and an o2 sensor Have Had worse news 😂 edit: o2 sensor is flogged, has been badly wired, cross threaded into manifold and tip damaged anyone have the part numbers for o2 sensor ej20

Ok, Success! The BG5 Teins are perfect - i put new top mounts on them and thoroughly cleaned out the threads on the adjustment part, set them to half way on the dampers and wow its a night and day different to the GC8 shock&spring combo, can go over speed bumps without the loud t hump from the front and can turn corners hard without bottoming out the shock (wheel used to rub the inner body ) Had to make some brackets for the ABS line Overall the the springs are set a tad low from whoever owned them last so ill wind them up next time i get a chance So in total ive spent close to $2000 trying to lower the front without going fully adjustable End result is i ended up going fully adjustable haha - but learned alot about spring rates and shock dampening ! Ill go back and update my post where I said GC8 shocks and springs fit in a BC5 - they fit yes, but - they suck because they are too weak for the BC5

Found a set of BG5 Tein front struts! Getting so hard to find parts for these old cars fingers crossed they fit the Bc5 and they are better suited for the weight than the gc8 springs

Yeah at first I thought they had just worn out being made of cardboard and foam - but upon removing them they appeared fine with no noticeable damage, bench tested him to no avail, both didn’t respond to a direct input voltage even after refreshing the solder The factory head unit has tape and a cdplayer and it also has an aux input! (First factory bc5 stereo I’ve seen with an aux) So no need to update it, keeps it era correct - even the aerial goes up and down 😎

Removed the 35year old front door speakers that finally gave up (first time I’ve experienced a speakers quiet end of life) and replaced them with some basic JVC equivalents - sounds fine - installed a band expander so I can finally stop listening to Mai fm 😂. factory head unit still working! 😎 it’s the little things working fine that does it for me now, this BC5 is 35years old and everything works 🥳 and it flies through wofs - a whole different world compared to 10years of my last BC5

Yup I’m going to try BD5 fronts next, apparently parts for those are getting rare now too lol, need to start hoarding parts again

Update to this - the stock GC8 WRX springs arent suitable for being in a shock fitting to a BC5, its just too weak a spring They fit physically but it has been really annoying me lately, if i corner even semi hard the extra weight on the front of the BC (compared to the WRX) is too much for the WRX spring rates, the tyres catch the inner guard, it passed another WOF check but it has really annoyed me on the drivability of the car which is what i was aiming for seeing as though i was so seldom able to drive my last BC , i just wanted to get this one driving stockish normalish so i could get WOFs and drive the bloody thing Spent saturday trying to install stock BL5 Bilstiens on the front because one of my mates said they fit - WRONG- arg - idiot Top hats dont work and i cant make the top hat swap work Ive talked with various lowering spring suppliers and they just dont make springs for BC5 anymore : ' ( I was trying to avoid getting adjustables to save money on a cert - but of course ive spent nearly 2 grand on various springs/shock setups/top hats / bushes/ wheel alignments omfg i should have just got a set of BC golds and got a cert Anyway - writing this incase someone sees it so they can save money and not make this mistake

so was it a faulty park light switch?

Update edit - no