THUNDA

Yup got mine off trademe in the end from Ledbits2012 Rang around lots of places and no-one seemed to know what the part was, infact im noticing more and more that parts businesses have less and less on hand knowledge and rely totaly on their what their computer tells them then i spoke to the guy at Ledbits and he pretty much said alot of the o2 sensors will work as they are all pretty similar I got a 3plug one that worked fine with my ecu but the plug didnt match so i just cut and soldiered my old plug to it and its been mint since Flew through a WOF yesterday - man i love this Legacy as its in such good nick getting wofs isnt a headache and i must say I LOVE the tein suspension, I dont even have to slow down for speed bumps, a great ride and very high quality suspension BUT I need to source a TPS (A22-000R25) was hoping to find one locally but nothing so far >_ <

Now getting Code 43 Throttle switch fault Arrrr I’m starting to remember why I tried not to drive my old one haha, nothing breaks if you don’t drive them

IAC Resistance Middle Pin (12V Feed) to Either side pin = 8.8Ohms Right hand Pin to Left hand Pin = 18.6Ohms Its weird because the check engine light comes on after coasting/decel, but now if i put my foot on the clutch and let the revs drop to idle the check engine light goes away and we are back to full power again I put some CRC on the thing that sticks up after you remove the IAC Sensor and its super free / no jamming, i know there is a diaphram inside though maybe Its sticky or something, might just time to pull it off and give it a clean out Installed a new fuel filter today just because they were only $35 and the one in their looked at least 10 years old

Yup you are correct I just didn’t have the time to check when I had the bonnet up, was easy to check the middle wire feed in situe when ac comes on revs go low for a second then back up to normal, same with when radiator fans kick on. It’s working normally, it just faults after deceleration- I’m thinking it might just be gummed up inside the actual IAC valve but the spinny thing on top moves freely when I remove the sensor. Parry spares has a whole IAC so I’m gonna order that regardless as I’d like a spare

Hmmm yeah not sure, when car is on the IAC sensor receives 13.8v on the middle wire which is normal I think. It only faults when I decelerate for a long period (I.e down a hill) then it goes into low power when I accelerate more than half throttle the first time after the deceleration, then the check light turns off and it drives fire until the next deceleration

codes cleared took it for a drive and code 24 popped up again after about 10minutes, wouldn’t let me boost fully and went all slowy Idle Air Control looks like I’ll be pulling it out this weekend

Thank youuuiu 🙏

I managed to find an o2 locally, fitted sweet and plug matched, $100, looks like it come from aliexpress originally haha. arrived today. Installed it and took it for a drive. No check engine light, but the codes still showing when checking ecu memory, I’ve forgotten how to clear codes on the obd1 system. So I can clear codes and take it for a long drive to see if anything pops up. I’ve got green plugs and clear plugs under the steering wheel. clear plugs together shows the codes through the flashing check engine light, green plugs together doing nothing. Am I forgetting something?

22690AA700 Has a different plug from 👀 my at photos ox336 is one of the part numbers I’ve found that look the same in the pics 💯🙏

Thanks man You’re a legend ! the one that’s in there is a 3wire/pin ill order the part direct from a subaru supplier ❤️

Had a check engine light today - yay - however I’m quite used to this haha - codes are 24 / 32 / 33 looks like It needs the ISC cleaned out / replaced and an o2 sensor Have Had worse news 😂 edit: o2 sensor is flogged, has been badly wired, cross threaded into manifold and tip damaged anyone have the part numbers for o2 sensor ej20

Ok, Success! The BG5 Teins are perfect - i put new top mounts on them and thoroughly cleaned out the threads on the adjustment part, set them to half way on the dampers and wow its a night and day different to the GC8 shock&spring combo, can go over speed bumps without the loud t hump from the front and can turn corners hard without bottoming out the shock (wheel used to rub the inner body ) Had to make some brackets for the ABS line Overall the the springs are set a tad low from whoever owned them last so ill wind them up next time i get a chance So in total ive spent close to $2000 trying to lower the front without going fully adjustable End result is i ended up going fully adjustable haha - but learned alot about spring rates and shock dampening ! Ill go back and update my post where I said GC8 shocks and springs fit in a BC5 - they fit yes, but - they suck because they are too weak for the BC5

Found a set of BG5 Tein front struts! Getting so hard to find parts for these old cars fingers crossed they fit the Bc5 and they are better suited for the weight than the gc8 springs

Yeah at first I thought they had just worn out being made of cardboard and foam - but upon removing them they appeared fine with no noticeable damage, bench tested him to no avail, both didn’t respond to a direct input voltage even after refreshing the solder The factory head unit has tape and a cdplayer and it also has an aux input! (First factory bc5 stereo I’ve seen with an aux) So no need to update it, keeps it era correct - even the aerial goes up and down 😎

Removed the 35year old front door speakers that finally gave up (first time I’ve experienced a speakers quiet end of life) and replaced them with some basic JVC equivalents - sounds fine - installed a band expander so I can finally stop listening to Mai fm 😂. factory head unit still working! 😎 it’s the little things working fine that does it for me now, this BC5 is 35years old and everything works 🥳 and it flies through wofs - a whole different world compared to 10years of my last BC5