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Hailz

Christchurch Member
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Posts posted by Hailz

  1. Hi again everyone,

    Well I have a wee prob with my wagon and I dont have a clue where to start, its only happened a few times but doesnt seem quite right for it to be happening, 97 GTB manual, I've been comming up to a stop, pushed the clutch in to hit 1st gear and this is what happens, the dash clicks revs die then it clicks again and the revs pull up to about 2,000rpm and it seems to mis a little and hold there for a few seconds then go back down to idle, one time the dash lights came on (the red ones) and flicked back off.

    This has only happend a handfull of times over the last 6 months or so, afm has been cleaned, iacv has been cleaned and upper engine cleaner run through, no pod filter or any crap mods, pretty standard.

    No fault codes comming up either........help

  2.  ReubenH said:

    Tisc tisc, one should not even consider touching anything turbo related under the bonnet till they have a gauge.

    If you think modyfing is going to become your game, invest in a good gauge so you know what your car is doing. Get to know what your car is doing, how it does it's thing, well before you mess with it!!!

    Hmm good point, might invest in one so I can look all boy racey lol, Reuben I've been told that my model is the latest revision of the BG5 with the limited front ect (like yours) and they had a different ECU setup - no secondary wasegate ect and different boost settings is that right? I drove three before I brought mine and mine was definatley the best performing one and standard too, the others were pre 97 model.

  3.  ReubenH said:

    1.25bar within the primary's limits? I doubt that.

    I'm just going to say this. If you mess with these TT systems, without knowing how they work, they are likely to bite back. Pick up some technical info on how they work before f***ing with them.

    http://www.veloce.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/technical%201.htm

    Bloody good call!

    I dont know all that much about this buuut I've been told that alot of suby engine failure is caused by the injectors not keeping up with the amount of boost being expected of them, here's a thought - would the computer tell the injectors to up the amount of fuel for that primary turbo boost of 18psi or will you eventually end up leaning it out and then needing a new turbo soon after?

    Although I am rather keen to give this a try for a short wee boost or two ;D

  4.  Garryg said:

    I'm going to get a boost gauge fitted as I don't seem to have stuff all effect from the primary turbo on my B4! I can't even here it kicking in? Should there be a noticable boost, or nothing more than a standard car???

    Thanks Again...

    Is yours auto or manual? To make sure mines still working I take off slowly with revs at about 1500 then put my foot half way down really quick, boost comes on really quick that way at about 2,500-3000rpm. Give that a go :) If its auto well I dunno then, my mate had an auto b4 and you could'nt really feel it come on suddenly, quite smooth really, but you could hear it though.

  5.  Garryg said:

    Cheers All...

    Certainly some differing thoughts! I think I'll get a guage fitted anyway.....just so I know what the current boost is and I will see where we go from there, before I look at fitting boost taps! Once I have this fitted I'll let you know what psi it's running as standard!!

    I certainly don't want to be doing things to stuff it up.....

    I'll certainly go for the exhaust....I don't want a loud drone all the time, so can anyone let me know what system would be best, just to give a little more sound...probably just the rear muffler would suit??

    I might just stick with some body mods at the moment....wheels, lowering and front lip spoiler (if I can find one)...

    For what you want from the exhaust just get a bolt on diff back muffler, that'd do the trick, its what my legacy's got now and at 100km's you cant even hear it but at idle and around town its got the "bob bob bob bob" suby sound so if you go down that route it should'nt be too droany - depending on what brand you get, its something I'd reccomend anyways, keep your eye for 2nd hand ones on trademe :)

  6. I'm a firm believer of covering the basics first, eg a really good service. And for the cost well if you do things yourself its not too bad and should ideally be done anyways, good clean oils, clean filters (fuel/air) new plugs, upper engine cleaner and make sure it has'nt got any ecu codes floating around plus running 98 too. Jeez even making sure your tyres are at the right pressure can make a difference. Then maybe look into an exhaust upgrade of some sort, there's plenty of 2nd hand stuff on trademe that pops up from time to time.

    RPS exhausts do from the Y pipe back plus the rear muffler for around $450 so that might be an option for you also, I'll be getting one of those kits pretty soon mainly for noise but can let you know if it has much of change on performance. I just dont think people should be playing around with boost ect on TT's, there's just sooo much that can go wrong lol, my original worn out primary turbo thats sitting at the dump somewhere now will agree with me :P

  7. yea i mean its definately an awesome mod and my wagon now handles a ton better than it used to, i guess its just a matter of finding somethng that works for the specific car and its purpose, by having my arb on the lowest point it seems to be the best of both worlds and definately something id upgrade on my next sub also.

    And ReubenH if your up this way any time soon your more than welcome to come for a drive in mine to see what it drives like - might save you some hassle in the long run :)

  8.  GravelBen said:

    It may be the tendency for stiff ARBs to reduce independent wheel travel that you're noticing - ie think of a corner with some big bumps on the inside...

    Car with soft ARB lets inside wheel move over those bumps without affecting outside wheel movement, resulting in better ride comfort and car staying stuck to road.

    Car with stiff ARB transfers some of that upward force across to outside wheel as well, causing whole axle to bump, reducing comfort and potentially losing grip.

    Which is why stiff ARBs may be great on track or smooth roads, but not so nice on rough/bumpy stuff.

    I could not agree with you more!!!!! The bar I put in even said on it FOR RACE USE ONLY

  9.  WRT said:

    It happened on my 97 BG5 as well, I learnt to drive around it and it was never a big issue. I did find that it lessened for a while after doing a hard launch, but it'd always come back (and I certainly wouldn't recommend this as a fix).

    I was told it could be a number of things; warped flywheel, worn clutch plates, oil leak, etc, but they were all expensive fixes so I learnt how to avoid it and just put up with it. Get the right mix of revs and slip and you won't get any shudder, but anyone else driving will always pick it up.

    It was only minor for me though, you would be the best person to decide if in your case it's bad enough to worry about fixing.

    It cracks me up that you said after a "hard launch" it'd go away - I thoguht the same thing but kept telling myself it was all in my head, glad I'm not the only one who's noticed it ;D

  10.  bubblz said:

    do you mean heavy footed driving made it warped hailz?

    Naah I would'nt go as far to say that, my wagons pretty nana'd in reality and it still happend, the mechanic I dealt with said "its just what happens with them with a few km's on them" I would have to say that if you done a couple launches ect ect that it would bring it on a hell of alot sooner ;)

  11.  ReubenH said:

    Yeah i'd love a pic.

    And hailz, that doesn't sound right... Admitedly i've not driven a car with one myself, but i know plenty who have, and that's not what i've heard. Are your rear bisteins rooted?

    And why would i want anything bigger? To stop body roll maybe?

    I was refering to bigger than what you can easily buy off the shelf - eg whiteline 22mm adj

    And no my Billys have only just been rebuilt, you put a massive bar in there then put a couple passengers in there and then you'll know what I'm taking about - I dont mean wallow around in general driving but when you start throwing it around it feels unstable as hell when you go over uneven roads (you could compare it to the tyre wanting to roll off the rim), I even had a passenger who refused to sit in the back one time because of it.

    Hey just trying to help and offer a bit of advice here....................

  12. My whiteline 22mm adjustable (legacy specific) bar is way too hard on the medium setting and the back wallows around like a whale when you push it, other people have had the same problem, why on earth would you want anything bigger back there? Seems like alot of trouble for no gains to me ????

    Just a heads up from experience :)

  13. Aparantly the clutch shudder is a warped flywheel, mine did the same thing, I got fed up with it and had it changed ect, but about 3,000kms later it started doing it again(not half as bad), but you can avoid it if you drive it a bit differently, from what I've been told by every mechanic and a few guys on here is that its "just another subby quirk" Unless its slipping I would'nt bother replacing it, unless the shudder is prety epic :)

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