-
Posts
6,233 -
Joined
-
Days Won
25
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by Kiwi_Fozze
-
-
2 hours ago, evowrx said:
Xrt only copped a flogging due to his holier than thou approach. He might be good at what he does I don't know. I can't imagine its rocket science tweaking similar stock tunes to a certain level as compared to something completely fresh.
I would trust xrt to etune. Seen his work.
And im fussy.
In Auckland your go to man is @pappu his attention to detail is something else
- 1
-
Etunes are fine, so long as the person recieving actually knows what they are looking at, and can pick out if a "tuner" has given them a bad tune.
Also, reputible companies only. And avoid off the shelf.
Best option by far is actual dyno time, but if the etuner is any good then its no different to an actual road tune, just slower
-
23 minutes ago, evowrx said:
Yep use that. I used it for turbo oil feed with avcs/big journal turbo as its on a main gallery theres plenty of flow.
Its where my oil pressure sensor is mounted. Got sandwich plate for temp
-
19 minutes ago, IZichard said:
Awesome! I'm keen to see some photos on your garage thread.
You are still factory height right? Are you planning on getting some rear camber bolts?
Got rear camber bolts as im running sti genome rear struts, slightly shorter than factory struts, and needed to correct the camber change of running sedan struts in the wagon
- 1
-
9 minutes ago, IZichard said:
How is the rear guard clearance?
Its fine! Plenty of room. Im running about 2 degrees rear camber though. I'd imagine with 225/235s and less camber you may run In to issues. But it definately fills the guards
-
11 minutes ago, IZichard said:
Did you use the sedan axles or the r180 wagon ones in the end?
Edit: Nvm I saw your above post. Did you not shove them all the way into the diff past the clip on the axle?
Thought I had, have now though!!!
-
Pick a part. Flog one of the factory oil pressure sensor plugs that screw into the block. Theres a blanking plug under the I/c next to the pcv that you can screw the bung into, then screw your pressure sensor in to that
-
Turns out the rear end is a bit quieter if you actually pop the axles in properly... Whoops!!
No oil lost, no damage done. Hasnt popped them back out again, which is good. Its still bloody noisy, so I think ima have to pop back down to see @Subirex Automotive to re seat the control arm bushes. Its noisy. Lol
- 1
-
get a capacitor into the system. the dimming headlights is a instantaneous demand thing. alternators are designed for slow ish power delivery to keep the car going and charge the battery, not to have a huge current draw dropped across it intermittently. capacitor allows for that to happen, as they are better suited for rapid discharge setups.
or spend some money and get d-class amps
- 3
-
Last night, sti sedan rear control arms and axles in.
10mm difference in axle length. Sti wagon wont be an issue in my opinion with sedan control arm swap and wagon axles. Can see it being an issue on the r160 rear end.
Made the dumbest mistake i've done in a while though, tightened it all up in the air. What a numpty. Its creaking like hell now.
Need to Jack it up, with weight on the rear wheels, loosen it all off, apply silicone lube then re-tighten. Dumb dumb dumb. Oh well, it was late.
Took it in for an alignment, turns out the old eyecrometer isnt too bad. Within 0.1mm error. Reset camber, nitrogen fill on tyres, happy days.
Acquired some of the new "motomuck" branded wheel cleaner. Same smell and consistancy as dragons breath, review to come
- 3
-
Check your rear control arm bush, as well as the nut at the top of the strut. Those strut top nuts can make a hell of a racket
-
Auto or manual?
-
Genuine clutch plates, pressure plate and release bearing from memory is about 730-750 ish.
You want to, at minimum, skim your flywheel while you are there.
To do in a shop, new clutch is anywhere between 1500-2k depending on where you go. Pain in the arse to do on your own too, them 6speed boxes are heavy.
However.
Box of beers and a few mates can have it done in a weekend
- 1
-
If its doing it in 4th, it'll be doing it in 5th and 6th. Subies will let go in the higher gears before you notice the slip in lower gears.
Chances are that yes, it is a Poked clutch.
When rreplacing it, use a genuine sti clutch. They hold over 260kW at the wheels happily on the factory kit, and look how many kms it's lasted so far. The genuine kit is an excedy clutch, and has an uprated pressure plate and release bearing. Use nothing less than the best :-P
-
1 hour ago, iludez said:
So it's not an etune 2. Is it better to have a non etune?
Sent from my K3 Note using Tapatalk
Much of a muchness. They run alright on 98, just dont run it on anything less
-
Well, on the Japanese high octaine that they are tuned for, they use comparitively little gas... Its just our fuels, although they have got a lot better recently, are still rubbish
-
Camp rangi woods... Christ its been years since I was last there!!! Centered around lower north island I believe would be best for all concerned, the die hard Queenstown tropps and them Auckland "Oohh I cant drive outside the city limits" types seem to be right at the outer edge of the range of travel. And manfield is a fantastic track.
Easter weekend perhaps?
- 1
-
You'll often find that a lot of the people on the Subaru parts nz page are also regulars here.
But yeah, as mentioned, vf24,28 and 29 are easily interchangable
Bit more performance around the vf24 era would be the vf23 or the 22. If I remember correctly the 23 spools a little faster than the 24, and the 22 spools later but pulls like crazy up the top end.
Hope that helps, and welcome!!
- 2
-
If there is anything wagon specific, go for that before the sedan stuff. Helps prevent the saggy butt issue
-
mines usually pretty spot on. try moving it so its got clean airflow. normally just in front of the radiatior, small little black boxy thing.
-
whiteline, hit up @evowrx or your local BNT
ultra racing, have a chat to pro wholesale in tauranga, they are club sponsors.
factory sti bar, try subaruspeed.co.nz or one of your local wreckers- 2
-
jeepers that looks nice!!
i just had a whiteline swaybar in mine, made a noticable difference, till i sheared one of the endlinks. keep an eye on em, they snap easy
- 1
-
Metal plate (coke can works) between the tmic and the recirc valve (assuming bolt on recirc valve)
-
auckland based fuels - @Batbaruman
gull force 10 is 10% ethanol blend
mobil 98 is their same old 98, no ethanol blend. that only pops up south of about taupo, i know for a fact its blended at bulls mobil.
bp98 is bp98... loland the 4 stations around here that you can get e85 at the pump
- 1
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 30 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online
Internet tuning discussion
in Electrical
Posted
Oh I agree, there should be no reason why an end user should be questioning the tune but at the same time you get what you pay for. You cant expect a cheap tune to be a good tune, it simply doesnt work like that.
Same as those "performance chips" or "electric turbos" its smoke and mirrors. Comes back to that old saying if its too good to be true, it probably is