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You can connect an inductive pick-up timing light to a coils low voltage wire to check the timing. If it works that sort of checks for spark too. You also want to check the cam timing. Before that though check you have fuel and spark. Crank it over with full throttle for a few minutes then quickly pull a spark plug out and see if it's wet with fuel. While it's out put it onto it's coil and rest it on the motor and crank the motor to check for spark.

See the IPW goes right to zero when the revs die...391-395, 475-477 That's because the car is flooding I would imagine. The IPW is trying to keep the revs up, the timing is retarding because of the low revs, the TPS and AFM are about where they would be. You really need to get the O2 readings to work to confirm that. The knock correction isn't working either. The AFM looks like it's working, especially at revs, but at idle it's lower than it's meant to be. That could be caused by a small air leak which is a relatively large proportion of air flow at idle but only a small proportion of air flow at revs. Just noticed that your boost solenoid also changes when the revs drop right off. Might be something interesting because it shouldn't change at idle, but those figures there aren't really in the right range anyway. Did you try those other addresses I suggested a few posts back?

The trouble code can be caused by too much cranking... because it won't start, not nessecarily the cause of the no start. The first thing you should do is check for fuel supply and spark... both fairly easy to do. Then you check for compression and timing. There is a certain order we are meant to follow to figure what is wrong with cars, and it's not to jump to conclusions because someone else had a problem like that once!

Ok, and you used the right mark on the crank and crankcase? The mark on the crank is just a little nick on one of the tangs, not the arrow, and the mark on the case is a little nick too which is just to the right of straight up as you look at it. There is a good picture of the crank sprocket here... http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/cams.JPG

Well if it just started after the cam belt job.... Yeah I'd say so! Time to recheck those timing marks. You don't have to use the marks on the belt. As long as all the timing marks line up it is right... assuming you are using the right marks of course. Have you got a diagram?

Probably one of the pressure sensors on the boost control circuit.

You test an O2 sensor by connecting a volt gauge to it, while it's still attached/plugged in to the car and the car is warm and running. The easiest way to do that is to solder two wires to two pins, then poke the pins inot the back of the connector where the sensor connects to the wiring loom of the car. When the motor is warm and idling the voltage should be constantly fluctuating between about 100 and 900 millivolts. If everything is in good order the voltage will really only swing between about 300 and 700, but they can go to the higher figures too. The really important thing is that it's fluctuating. The fluctuating is it detecting a rich mixture and telling the ecu to lean the mixture, then it detects a lean mixture and tells the ecu to richen it again, and so it goes on. If it's just at one end of the range there is no feed-back happening or there is something wrong preventing the mixture from changing... like air leaks or flooding because of faulty fuel pressure regulator for instance. The MAf should have about one volt on two of it's wires when it's idling. It goes up near five volts at revs but you can't really check that without connecting a laptop to it. If it's one volt at idle it will probably be right. There are specs and test procedures in a pdf called "diagnostics" here... http://tinyurl.com/yktuyro

Dudes, get yourselves a cable so you can connect to a laptop. Then you can read the exact specs of whatever board is in there right down to the revision number of the software. You can tell what car, what year, what market, what version software.

Those codes could be set if the mixture is so far out that the motor can't rev properly, so I'd try and figure/cure the idle problem before I fixed that code. How is the air filter? Can you check your fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator? Can you use a digital multimeter(voltmeter), to check the O2 sensor? It's easy if you have and know how to use a multimeter.

Hmm... If the AFM was playing up bad enough to cause total power loss at a steady throttle setting like this, wouldn't it set a trouble code... for O2 if nothing else? I'd suspect the main relay or a power or earth connection myself.

You need to check you have power to the ecu. It could be that a plug has come loose going into the ecu, main relay, or a fuse has gone. There will be several live feeds into the ecu. Get a wiring diagram and check they all have power.

There's an easy cure for that Ryan.... keep your foot off the throttle!!

Well done. So it's all going good now? After all that you are going to need to take it for a run and bed the rings in very carefully. It's not good to start up new motors and have them rev away with no load on them. Put it all together. Fill it with water and oil and check EVERYTHING. Start the motor and start driving it with a light load and not too many revs. Don't lug the motor though. Stop after a mile or so when the temp is up to normal. Jump out and have another look for leaks or things falling off. Start the motor and have a quick listen under the bonnet. If it's all good drive it with medium loads and let it build up to about 4000 then throttle off to about 1500, keep doing that, wind it up and then throttle off. Gradualy increase the load and revs between throttle offs. Keep doing it for fifteen minutes.

It sounds like the alternator isn't charging enough, but that could be a loose belt, worn brushes, dead regulator, bad earth or connection. Might be a good idea to get it diagnosed before fitting any more parts that may not actualy be needed(reffering to the battery here). Diagnosis is cheaper than parts or fitting generaly, well it is if the people doing the diagnosing know what they are doing. Go see an auto electrician.

That trickling sound is common, it's air in the system. Fix the water loss and get all the air out of the system and the sound will go away. Get the car looked at to find where the water is going to, get them to check for a leaking head-gasket too because now it's lost the water a couple of times that may have gone whether it was the original problem or not.

Back-firing out the inlet sounds like a lean mixture. Check the fuel pressure, flow and wiring. That new pump has likely overloaded the wiring relay or the connector under the rear seat.

If you tap the throttle down quickly it makes the trans go into a more sporty mode where it changes up at higher revs and kicks down sooner. Tje changes are also crisper. If you back the throttle right off for more than three seconds it reverts back to the standard ecomomical mode.

A flat battery/low voltage could cause the light to come on so I would get the battery and clear the codes then see what happens.

Have you had the throttle position indicator checked? Have you tried a standard tune up and a fuel filter change? Both pretty standard first steps. I assume wingers would have checked for trouble codes and asked you about it's service history?

Check the timing. If the motor got turned backwards it can jump a cog. Cam timing being wrong can set a code for the cam sensor. Cam sensor code can also be set after extended cranking. The sensor doesn't have power to it. It puts out a sine wave of about half to one and a half volts. It can be checked with an oscilloscope or a good multimeter. The motor will run with a cam sensor code. Hard to start but they do run. If the sensors wires are routed wrong they can get interferance and play up, especialy of the shielding is damaged. Check the wiring and check for a sine wave signal right at the ecu.

Ha. Bloody hell Ryan. Put the car together before you try and start it! I'm off for the night. You Ryan had better go "tend" to your missus or she will be banning you from her computer!

I wonder why the IPW went to zero. The motor was struggling to keep running so there was some injection happening... unless there was leaking injectors happening? Did it smell rich? Could there be something blocking the intake/ There must be some reason why the IPW went to zero. Whatever the reason, there was still fuel there when it was happening. Have you tried taking the vacumm hose off the fuel regulator and seeing if it smells of fuel? There could be a hole in the regulators diaphram letting fuel get into the manifold. I see you are getting a different figure for the O2 now. What address is that coming from? That O2 figure should be going up and down all the time once the motor is warm. The only time it shouldn't go up and down is when you have your foot to the floor, or near to the floor.

You haven't been adjusting the butterfly screw have you? Have you disconnected everything off the manifold... like the brake booster hose, boost hoses, fuel regulator hose, charcoal canister?

Just teasing Ryan. It wouldn't be the first time it had been done though.

Ha, yeah, a gasket with too much silicon on it!!