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Afterthought.. You know what the real trouble with a trans for dragging is.. to get the power through the clutches you have to ramp up the pump pressure, and that drags significant horsepower...

Standard mods for more power are a bit of machining and an extra clutch plate in every pack, stronger springs in the accumulators, and then boost the hydraulic pressure. it's just how long before you have to throw more clutches in... but clutches are cheap... The piddly little gears might be the long term problem, or the welds between the clutch housings and the shafts. Probably better to buy an aftermarket box made for the job.

Check the compression...

"I then checked resistance between the slider rings and the main rotor core/shaft. This should show more than 1ohm. Mine is showing 0 or open circuit, so the rotor coil is grounding when it shouldn't be. Again this means the rotor assembly needs replacing: "... Open circuit is what it should be.. That means it isn't shorted... Also, the washers you used to pack the pulley out.. They need to be hard, not copper or aluminum. The pulley is only transmitting torque to the shaft by the friction between the pulley and the step or spacer on the shaft.. you can buy steel shims from an engineering supply place.

I live rural and have been struggling for years with bad reception. I was going to buy a new phone and was looking at various high price samsungs, but my two sons assured me that their mates with flash samsungs and iphones didn't get service in remote places they all go camping etc together and that I should buy a samsung xcover 4s.. It's what they both had found just by chance(because they are always breaking phones and replacing them). I did and it is bloody amazing.. $400 bucks well spent. never any trouble now getting messages or internet.

Id try getting rid of the lsd oil...

If it\'s just one cylinder not firing it won\'t be an air leak.. the injectors inject straight into the inlet ports... if there is un-metered air getting in, all cylinders will run lean or badly.. It could be that it has un-learnt it\'s learnt tune. It might need taking for a drive... They come set to run a new motor correctly, but as they wear, or the exhaust or injectors or the air-cleaner get dirty, they self adjust to compensate, and they remember that learnt compensation for the next start up.. If you take the battery off, a motor that had been running fine compensating for slightly low compression say, won\'t run right afterwards till it\'s been driven through a relearning drive or two. Also.. that would have a wasted spark ignition system by the sound of it.. so if one coil or half coil was buggered, two cylinders will be effected by it.

The best way to check that all the pulleys and idlers are parallel is to stand to the side and move up and down till two pulleys are appearing almost to touch, and there is only a tiny gap apparent between the top of one pulley and the other pulley\'s bottom edge. That thin line between them should be parallel. Keep moving around viewing any two pulleys at a time, and trying to do each pulley from the side and from above to check it in both planes.

Either something is twisted, like an idler not sitting flat and square (in every plane) against the block.. or the belt is a bad one. Brand new belts, even from reputable manufacturers, can sometimes be defective in that they are tapered from front edge to back edge. It\'s like if the belt was made way wider, until it was a tube.. the tube would be tapered.. Take the new belt and lay it on the kitchen table on it\'s side, so it\'s a big loop.. now crouch down and try to see if the two sides of the loop are standing up at right angles to the table. If they both seem to be leaning in, or out, overall, then the belt will creep.. and you have to make sure it is a nice round hoop of belt or it will deceive you on such a big belt.. On smaller belt it\'s easy to check, on a belt that big you will need to look from several angles to get an overall picture even with care standing all the belt upright as you can.

With poor start-up, and the vacuum gauge flickering at idle... you really need to get a compression check, leak down test, engine tune and all the standard things like small hoses checked first... It could be that the motor is poked...

It will probably be the front one. The code may not mean the O2 sensor is crook though. There may have been a misfire, or the sensor got drowned in a puddle of water and got too cold to read correctly, and so the code gets set. The trouble codes are only indicators, they always need checking against the circumstances and diagnosis carefully. If you use two regular sewing pins or needles you can back probe the connector plug of the O2 sensor and then use a volt gauge to test the sensor while the car is running.. or, connect a laptop or scanner and read what the O2 sensor is doing while the car is running.

The Idle control valve uses modulated pulse width to keep it open the right amount. Modulated pulse means it\'s turned on and off with different ratios of on and off. If the butterfly settings, engine condition and hoses etc are correct. the valve is powered on approximately 45 percent of the time, and 55 percent of the time it\'s off. This switching is happening hundreds of times per minute. The buzz is probably because of the switching.. but they don\'t normally make a noise. I\'d guess that both valves you have tried has some play in it that is making the noise.

Well Eightdollar, after following all the subaru or any manufacturer\'s books right through, when every component including the wiring has been checked, we often find they say to fit a "known good unit". Generally that\'s only in the case of ecus though.. most other components there are specific tests for, and paths to follow to arrive at the conclusion that you should check that component. That said, once cars have been modified, or played around with, then it rapidly becomes a guess. I\'m a mechanic, I don\'t get paid for guesses that aren\'t right, or that are only half the fault, the victim of some other component failing... I have to be methodical, systematic, and careful, whether the car is modified or not, whether I know it\'s history or not, whether the fault seems obvious or not. I always start in much the same way.. In the long run, over time, experience tells us that is the surest way. And we know how many thousands of dollars get wasted in here fitting parts on a guess...

Ha, yeah, ok. I\'m a duffus. I agree that if you are stupid enough to squirt petrol about, it can be dangerous. Thing is, I didn\'t actually think anyone would be that stupid. I always assume that the people asking the questions are probably amateurs, keen amateurs with a few clues. I assume that they probably don\'t have all the workshop equipment, but that they are reasonably intelligent and competent. And... making an educated guess, is not a diagnosis.

That site says fuel tank pressure sensor. Autodata says, "heated O2 sensor 3, bank 2, heater control-low". And "Wiring short to earth, O2sensor, ECM".