2themoon
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Posts posted by 2themoon
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Cleaned the earth points no problems with earth. Tested ecu for ground on all terminals, and at plug connections all earths fine they all are very earthy, re wired extra earths to engine and rear of trans, still getting cels.
I think its time to burn it.
I realize now why the previous owner got rid of it.
It had a bag of sensors in the glove box, I guess he tried changing them all as well and got pissed off.
Can anyone please recommend a Subaru dealer or Mechanic that actually knows there stuff and has awesome diagnostic skills meaning they do not swap out parts guessing its this or that ?
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I have checked the earths from the chassis to the bellhousing and cleaned them also I have run a earth from the alternator to the chassis, is there any other place were I could ground it ?
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Ok so I got a few problems with my 1998 Wrx STI, I know a little but not alot.
Here goes, Morning start up is fine, then I drive for 5 minutes and it brings up a cel. I park up at work for 8 hours, come back to car and when I start it its like it idles very very low and cuts out sometimes until its warm, it produces this same symptom everyday.
I connect the 2 black diagnostic plugs to see what code it throws, it throws code 24 Idle air control valve ( I have tried multiple IACV\'s )
I clear the code, drive again and it comes back, I notice it is more likely to come back when I am changing down through the gears 3rd to 2nd.
I disconnect the black connectors and connect the green ones and drive the car for a couple of minutes, it throws another cel code 51 Neutral Position Swiitch.
I turn the car off, with ignition on I depress the acceleration pedal then bring it back up half way for 2 seconds, then I start the car and hold the revs at 2000rpm for 1-2 minutes then it throws another cel code 33 Vehicle Speed Sensor, The speedo still works fine.
I was wondering if anyone can shed some light on this situation, as I have already changed the neutral position sensor and I still get the same code reoccurring ?
Could any of the above sensors be causing the others to bring up a cel ?
Would love some input
Cheers ;D
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Am I the only one who thinks this is alil suspect? one moment the car isnt running right an causing issues the next you "fix it" and now its on trademe.... and both posts within 5mins of each other. I really hope you're and honest person
I get the feeling the new owner is going to get a very interesting car...
I actually got the car to make some money off it ;D yes it had a few problems obviously why the guy who had it got rid of it because he didnt have the knowledge to fix it, but now its all fixed and goes really good ;D
Its only smart that I advertise it on here with all the Subaru enthusiasts ;D
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Ok so heres an update, turns out the MAF being plugged in was not the reason for high idling, bad idling, over fueling and hard starting, it was the water temperature sensor this is the one underneath the intake manifold near the throttle body checked the resistance readings and they were jumping up down and all over the show, so i replaced this sensor and it now runs perfectly and wow does it go fast it comes on boost really well, im really impressed with its performance. Thanks for everyone's input
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Out of curiosity, is it still running a MAF?
Yeah lou it was still running a maf, I talked to a tuner today who told me that it should not be plugged in haha, the guy I got it from also told me he replaced the maf because it wasnt running right, I unplugged it so now it starts first pop every time and runs so much better but it still has a high idle and I could hear a relay under the dash switching sometimes when I rev the engine and sometimes it doesnt, turns out it is really really hot to touch, I unplugged it and wacked it a couple of times put it back in and the car runs sweet, this is not normal hopefully if I replace this Silver relay it will solve the problem.
Heres hoping
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http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/4584/sam2745k.jpg
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7703/sam2746.jpg
http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/2104/sam2739t.jpg
Not sure what model this is at all, might be an earlier model.
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[
Just checked it has a link computer inside, (1996 SUBARU V3.3) it says on the back of the motherboard.
Kaka!!!!! that means I will have to pay $$$$ to get it tuned. Fingers crossed hopefully not ;D
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I didnt think Possum did chipping. Only the link ECU's.
Have you checked it for fault codes?
Does it hunt on idle? MAF maybe?
yeah not sure if it has a link computer ?
It doesnt hunt on idle it just goes up to 1500rpm also wont start properly when its hot.
I will have to check the ecu maybe it has a link replacement plug n play ?
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Engine is stock standard. I do not have a Picture at the moment
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Help help help Please
Ok so I scored this 94 sti the other day.
It had a few issues, rev counter not working, blow off valve on backwards arrow pointing towards the y-pipe ? y-pipe installed on an angle leaving air gap, sorted all that out.
Then I noticed it idles at 1500rpm.
Took it for a 40 minute drive, in that time the idle went from 1500 to 800 a couple of times when it felt like it ?
Came home turned it off to open garage jumped back to start it then it would not start. I tried starting it for 5 minutes then it slowly chugged up to 1500rpm and I put it away stunk of fuel. it only doesnt start when its hot.
I thought this might have been IAC valve or maf sensor, but it is not, I swapped out parts from another working wrx and still the same symptoms.
has anyone had a similar problem ?
The car goes really good anything above 3000rpm doesn't miss or backfire.
Is there a way to set the IAC valve properly ?
what resistances is it suppose to read ?
Also could this be the engine temperature sensor, Crank angle or cam shaft postion sensors breaking down when they are hot ?
Does anyone know the correct resistance values for these sensors.
Another thing is for the life of me I cannot get the engine check light to work so I cant diagnose it myself. I changed the bulb still no luck, Someone told me that if your ecu was chipped with a possum bourne chip then that might be the case? my car has a possum sticker on it.
Hoping someone can shed some light on my situation
cheers
Rob
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Daiyama adjustable suspension I forget what model I had but I can say from my experience these are awesome, pillow ball mounted, soft to hard adjustment, 30cm adjustment up or down ride height and ride quality was awesome had them very low and they did not bottom out when you ran over a pot hole or feel like you were in a boat when you hit a rise in the road at speed. I have driven on few other brands Tein koni D2 and BC and have found that daiyama were awesome for (road use) these were purchased from SAS ;D Oh and I paid just over $1400 3 years ago
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A technician told me they wont line up exactly dead on straight with each other they are off a little because of the castings
a picture of a diagram of course it will look straight on the picture -
So I did the cam belt yesterday easy as fixed alot of my problems I was having , the only problem I found was that all the marks did not line up dead on , found out that subaru made a stuff up on there castings but kept printing them
why would they do that .... -
Appreciate that Boostin cheers
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Bazza-NZ']
[quote name='Bazza-NZ said:
I'll see if i can find the wrx manual i have somewhere, If you get a genuine one all you have to do is actually line up the lines with the lines on the cam gears and its all good
/quote]
I noticed the cam timing is out on my car probably causing knock and putting the ecu into safe mode running only 5psi, so Id like to reset it myself to make sure its ok, I really just need to know where the crank mark goes as the diagram I have is not clear at all, just wanna make sure I have the diagram before I even get started
The arrow points to the right hand side, 45 degrees...
Look on the cam sprocket, there will be a line on it (not the arrow) and you match that up with the marking at the top of the engine where you put your crank sensor in (should be a line on that part)
If you can get a photo of your engine I'll mark it out for you
Ok cool
the mark on my (crank pulley) should be at TDC ? because at the moment mine is reading that its almost 45 degrees ATDChave you reset your timing belt?
Yes it should be in line with the mark on the block (which leaves the arrow pointing out to the right [from standing frontal])
Visit this....
Everything you need to know with pictures
Shot brother thanks for your help ;D 8)
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Bazza-NZ']
[quote name='Bazza-NZ said:
I'll see if i can find the wrx manual i have somewhere, If you get a genuine one all you have to do is actually line up the lines with the lines on the cam gears and its all good
/quote]
I noticed the cam timing is out on my car probably causing knock and putting the ecu into safe mode running only 5psi, so Id like to reset it myself to make sure its ok, I really just need to know where the crank mark goes as the diagram I have is not clear at all, just wanna make sure I have the diagram before I even get started
The arrow points to the right hand side, 45 degrees...
Look on the cam sprocket, there will be a line on it (not the arrow) and you match that up with the marking at the top of the engine where you put your crank sensor in (should be a line on that part)
If you can get a photo of your engine I'll mark it out for you
Ok cool
the mark on my (crank pulley) should be at TDC ? because at the moment mine is reading that its almost 45 degrees ATDC -
I'll see if i can find the wrx manual i have somewhere, If you get a genuine one all you have to do is actually line up the lines with the lines on the cam gears and its all good
I noticed the cam timing is out on my car probably causing knock and putting the ecu into safe mode running only 5psi, so Id like to reset it myself to make sure its ok, I really just need to know where the crank mark goes as the diagram I have is not clear at all, just wanna make sure I have the diagram before I even get started
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Can someone please point me to a diagram of the cam timing that is clear and easy to read . I cannot seem to find one at all on this forum ? might just be me ::)and yes I used the search seems to be a lot of dead links ;D
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Ok so my 90 legacy RS has been boosting like 5-6 psi SAFE MODE yeah thats really shit, the other day I disconnected the battery for ruffly 20 mins, then when I started to drive, it ran 15 pounds yay
but then after a certain time of driving, it goes back into safe mode . I checked the trouble codes and no codes at all. Every time I disconnect the battery for 20 mins the problem goes away but then comes back after a while of driving also I noticed when the radiator fan comes on the car starts to miss and pug and idle drops a little. any ideas ????????
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You guys are going to like this. I've gotten the primary turbo off... anyway the following pictures should tell the story...
Yep, when I took it off there was a ****ing nut in the intake! a nut! No wonder the turbo is rooted, the fans don't spin nor do they wobble. So yeah its rooted. Had to grind off a bolt to get the down pipe off, but no biggy. Right, I either need another primary, or replace them both with something else. Going to go down to my mechanic tomorrow, cheers to everyone who helped, especially boostin and Ichi Ban (PM).
Shucks Id be interested to know how a nut that big came about in the turbo intake pipe that is crazy
you must have the mean intake pipe sucking up debree as you drive good luck with your adventure -
Yeah definately says VF12 on it the previous owner said the turbo came from a rally car? probably all kaka, would a td04 off a forester be a better improvement over my VF12 I just have one lying around in the draw doing nothing..
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What are the specs of a VF12 ? is this turbo any good I have been told that my vf12 has been modified I honestly wouldnt know how to pic it any info would be great cheers
a picture of a diagram of course it will look straight on the picture
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Subaru has dumbfounded me.
in Electrical
Posted
Today I followed the loom from the NPS, turns out the loom to the sensor was broken, found both wires broken up under the dash, god knows how that happened. So all sorted now, check light blinks rapidly no fault codes, so glad I found that ;D that one sensor can cause so many other faults.
Thanks everyone for their input much appreciated ;D