killervq30de
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Posts posted by killervq30de
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Mine was putting down 180KW on PBMS dyno (downpipe + tune + panel filter). A full exhaust job, bigger top mount + an extra 2psi of boost would have cracked 200kw just....but then youre talking spending the same $$$ again to get 1/2 the power of the first 3 mods.
180kw was great for daily driving within the limits (and slightly above when overtaking).
Thanks (& Marky) thats pretty reassuring, happy enough with the 180kw (happy enuff with the 140kw now it seems). I think the downpipe+tune+(maybe pod) will be the extent of it. If I want more, might be better to get an STI, do love the wagon though.
Stupid question as I know the answer already, but this would likely void a Winger mechanical warranty?
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Don't bother changing the rest of the exhaust until you have done downpipe.
As heylin says, downpipe, filter, tune.
If that isn't enough for you then, intercooler upgrade and maybe the rest of the exhaust. Otherwise spend the rest on tyres/handling or styling.
Don't see the point to brembos either. I had standard rotors and Znoelli pads and they worked great even on the track.
What would a stock auto Legacy BP5 GTB '07 (with just STI genome exhaust) make at the wheels if you did Down pipe + filter + tune? Do you have to do filter to get gains? (prefer less hassle with stock replaceable filter, no oil on MAF etc)
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Fitted Recaro seat to my Legacy BP5, very comfortable and I think with the firmer support the car feels more responsive (more in my head I guess) as you can feel the car better rather than wollowing in the seat.
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Legacy BP5, how many ft-lb should the drivers seat rail bolts be torqued too?
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At some point is not just cheaper and easier to buy a V5?
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I started this thread. Mine was when driving normally and on part-throttle the 2nd to 3rd shift was a firm thump. You'd expect the thump if wide open throttle as it uses full line pressure to prevent slip. I never had it on downshifts. And was intermitent as well, I notced but never thought much about it. Sublabs picked it up when testing driving before a service.
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thats the way it works
not sure why it's the new owners problem, that's why some people shut down or move on
this thread is bordering on slander & libel for the new company then & I'd be wary what you/ anyone posts
Didn't the new company respray all 7 panels, embedding dust and hair, making it actualy worse than the start?
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I got this from aussie last week. http://www.ebay.com/itm/272041643621?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Didn't need climate controls cos' the facia clips onto the ac unit. There was no way I was going to spend $600+ for that.
the 2006+ has a single piece of plastic with climate and radio, which sucks
[edit: late to the party]
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I will admit I really do like how sleepy and unassuming the 3L's look, while still having the ability to seriously hooof
And yes definitely go facelift. The 6spd manual is way tighter and just 100x more comfortable.
I like the scoop though that you get with turbos, no scoop just doesn't seem as cool to me. then again you don't want to be a poser with scoop and no turbo.
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They are named differently but the engine itself will essentially be the same. EJ20y and EJ20x. its a TD04 not 05 in the older ones too. But 2007 models have the same for both. Map is obviously very different between the two.
Is this in relation to swapping an engine or just wanting considerations for what model to go for? There's also some EJ255 models out there too.
How different are the maps are they autos detuned for a good reason as I thought the stock autobox was good for a reasonable WHP? I thought it was based on RPM, throttle% and stuff (techical term), so it didn't care what was changing the gears.
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I attempted to have this done to my import 2007 gt spec b at Armstrong in lower hutt yesterday, as I also have the hard shift from 2nd to 3rd. It turns out they didn't have the pak files, but they said there were 2 updates for my car. Apparently they have to buy them from subaru nz which they are doing and will be able to flash it for me next week. Will let let you know how I get on.
I be keen to know what the 2 updates are (mines MY07 JDM too). I got the TCU and he said there was no engine one (I assume ECU). They got mine direct from subaru too.
lately and probably unrelated to the reflash but I think my Sport setting is punchier than the S#. I didn't notice it straight after the flash, so I wonder if its the TCU relearning
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I don't believe any difference in the actual motor, the ecu how ever is apparently detuned a bit for the autos. I don't know how big the power gap is now as both the auto and manual have the same turbo in the bp5 2006+ Before it was td05 in manual vs a vf38
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Glad people are liking the subtech + stock mid + genomes as that's where I plan to end up after warranty.
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I've got 07 twinscroll Legacy BP5 GTB and have the STI genome exhausts. They are not to every ones taste but they sound nice and quiet most of the time untill you floor it, very subtle rumble sound over stock. I wanted STI as its a bolt on and shouldnt count as a mod for mechanical warranty as its made for the car by subaru
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Yea freessm only works with the tactrix openport 1.3 and older, not the 2.0 which is the current model.
Why not just do a TCU reset in Romraider logger?
Or can you guys actually load the PAK file using freessm?
Diy is all well good, but for 50$ you'll get the right pak file sourced and installed from Subaru. Mr hey didn't have one for my engine just the trains
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Sweet might take it in to them at some point - wonder how long it takes to do the upload
Just found out that my car rev matches when down shifting in tiptronic in Sport#
Yeah that sounds pretty good too if not stock exhaust.. You can also skip down from like 5 to 3 but just double tapping rather than shift through each gear. I want to know, because it does rev match does that mean You can downshift all the time. Normally with autos you shouldn't as it creates extra stress on clutches and bands but because it rev matches it should be fine to do.
I think the longest part of doing the PAK is sourcing the right one and copying it out to USB to transfer to the shop laptop. I had a $48 charge on my invoice but that was during a service so not sure if they'd normally charge labour on top.
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I've noticed a thud when going from 2nd to 3rd in tiptronic in my 09 3.0 outback also on part throttle.
Who was the mech?
Yes was sublabs, they didn't have the right PAK file on hand so got it from Suabru NZ. They also did the trans relearn part, that on its own wouldn't remove the hard shift though. Butt dyno says its a huge improvement, presumably they didn't just fix the shift but maybe same other tweaks. *don't tell me otherwise because i'm liking the placebo effect*
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Got my car serviced the other day, the mechanic said when he took it for a test drive he noticed a hard shift from 2nd to 3rd under part throttle (I'd expect it under full). I had noticed this too but assumed it was normal. So he flashed the TCU with a new PAK file now the shifts are very smooth. Had transfluid replaced at the same time that would've helped too.
I think its pretty cool that Subaru are still supporting older cars (Bp5 2007) when they find issues they release updates. Not sure when this was dated.
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Diff and transfluid should probably be on that list if its the 100/200k service?
In the past when I have asked Winger for estimate of service I have been told about $2000 including cambelt, water pump, sparks and fluids (and what ever comes with 100k service)
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ha I have seen that and never thought much about what it was for - nice !
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GC8E2DD']Having owned a BP5 GTB for nearly ten years, and 100,000kms, I wouldn't be disparaging it's reliability. It has been off the road once for cambelt, and that was it. The VF38s on autos are apparently not terribly long lived, but that probably comes down largely to treatment and servicing (or lack thereof).
The MY06+ BP's, both auto and manual seem to have the VF44 or similar (vf38 and td04's are gone).
My opinion of 3.0 vs 2lt turbo is if you want a awesome daily driver that's very reliable with 10k services. The the 3.0r. If you want more tune ability and upgrades get the turbo. Factory the 3.0r manual is equally fast as a 2lt turbo tiptronic car. the 3.0r is good for towing.I think about the 3.0R being the same power as a 2lt turbo auto could well depend on the car. I test drove a 06 GT before I brought my 07 GTB and the 06 one was defintely slower so I think theres still some variance between 2lt turbo models little alone between auto and manual.
Having owned a 2004 GT for 4 years and 30,000kms id say they are equally reliable, we only service ours every 10,000 kms and its been ECU tuned and Subtech piped from day one we brought it. (181kw at wheels, which equates to well over 215KW at engine).Beyond 150,000 id be wanting the 3.0R though (lack of turbo)
Some of the 3.0R guys overseas are getting > stock GT performance through ECU mapping, front pipes,exhaust and cold air intake. Our second car will be such a 3.0R....if i can find a buyer for my Ralliart Colt
with the modded 3.0R being same power stock 2lr auto - ahh really you don't say
the auto GT's are detuned compared with the manual GT's anyway. So if you were to just tune a auto GT it would then be better than a 3.0R with the afore mentioned tune, pipes and exhaust. I'd say the MY06 would also before better than the older models that don't have the newer turbo or SI drive.
[quote name='heylinb4nz said:
Pretty high KMs for $15,000My pick would be
url]http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=924104134[/url]
Unless of course you actually need a wagon
Biased but I like the wagon out of those two trademe ones -
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Mods on BL5 Spec B
in Legacy & Outback
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Yeah I knew as much. I think with the tune, if it changes the 'name' or checksum then they'll detect it. with any engine damage i'm sure they'd check. I fully plan to wait until next July when it expires.
Next, Car insurance. 30+ year old driver. What do you need to tell car insurance about it? tell them, ok fine but what do you explain to them?