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Jono24

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Posts posted by Jono24

  1. 1 hour ago, Gripless said:

    Should you not leave the material around the bolts. Stops water and crap going down to the threads.  

     

    Plus less machine time to remove the material so cheaper to produce.

     

    A little more to print and test but you can leave it void and just print internal webbing. 

     

    When the bolt is in there, not much is going to go down there.

     

    The extra machining time to remove that material is marginal at best and it removes a bit of unnecessary bulk. I can ask the machinist, but I don't believe this will have a noticeable impact on cost as it doesn't affect part turns in the machine or tool changes, or much in the way of tool paths.

  2. Hi All,

     

    I'm working on a CNC machined TGV delete to be used with v7 STI intake manifolds. I've modeled the part myself based on a factory aluminum TGV and had it 3D printed and test fit. The design will allow for standard Subaru injectors and rails for all injectors ports, this allowing flexibility when building up your fueling system (i.e. aftermarket injectors or rails for Subaru v7 Imprezza STI  will fit in both lower and upper locations, along with factory v7 injectors/rails).

     

    The benefit of dual injectors per cylinder is when you are chasing big horsepower, and a large single injector per cylinder (i.e. 1500cc and above) will achieve poor resolution at part load/cruise, resulting in a stumble or accelerator hunting at cruise. With twin injectors, you can retain the factory injectors for low horsepower duty, and allow the ECU to bring on the secondary injectors only as needed, thus providing factory levels of fueling control at low engine load and adequate fueling for high horsepower runs.

     

    This design is intended to utilise your primary injectors in the lower injector ports for general duties, while the upper injectors provide additional fueling as required. This will require an aftermarket ECU to control the additional 4 injectors and it is best you consult with your tuner if your ECU is capable of managing the extra 4 injectors.

     

    I'm currently working through the adapter for mounting the upper fuel injector rail and pricing with a CNC machinist with the final version to be cut from aluminum billet. As you will understand, the bigger the batch of these the lower the final cost, so if anyone is interested please get back to me via private message and I can put you on the list.

     

    I'll post some pictures up here shortly of the 3D printed version, but please be aware that this isn't the final product, as details such as fillets will be added to improve machine-ability and reduce costs.

     

    I'm happy to answer questions anyone has, just fire away.

     

    Cheers,

     

    Jono

     

     

     

    84943a6e4cf69ecf119a7040cb137468.jpg132265bd05ac0ad8f573d72ecce3e43e.jpgd9fe13a34ae33b1141bcf55e151a2405.jpg6e165422f5b6a22bb901d2fe5bf9199d.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
     

    • Like 4
  3. The initial post asked if he could fail a wof. The answer is yes.

    And there is misinformation being disseminated here.

    Likelihood of getting away with it is something else, and he has a good chance of getting away with it.

    Then again, with the tightening grip on wof inspections it may not last long.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

    • Like 5
  4. I think you are making the right call to go to the link.

    My conversions have been on a be5a with a wrx a7 ecu and my current be5d with a v3/4 plugin link, and although the wrx ecu went well, the link is a lot more flexible. This is particularly so compared to the early jecs ECU's.

    If you go to pick a part you could probably find a 4 plug ecu and a set of '3 plugs' and make an adapter on your bench which makes it heaps easier than trying to work in the footwell, this can help if you find a bargain on a plugin for a different model.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  5. [mention=14450]Jono24[/mention], do I dare wonder what you're doing?  
    A few little things:

    1, turbo oil drain modification to use -an fittings

    2, removal of factory oil modine, replace with remote oil cooler and thermostatic sandwich

    3, oil temp sensor install - doesn't really need engine removal but while it's out it will be easier.

    4, go buy and fit an SAS baffle plate

    I am still debating a closed deck ej25 short block or biting the bullet and going big with an ez30 but that would be a way off.

    I also need to get new synchros for my 6 spd but would like some longer ratios too as it doesn't see much track time. That will be the next priority.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

    • Like 3
  6. We have a 6m glass boat on a tandem axle braked trailer.

    We towed it from Auckland to Christchurch down the alternate route while kaikoura was blocked and through the Lindis pass. This was using our 2.5T auto 2008 SH5 Forester.

    Under brakes it is good and never have had a brake fade issue or felt uncomfortable under brakes.

    However... if the coolant system isn't up to scratch you will suffer. Our radiator was blocked and this caused us overheating issues so I'd get the radiator rodded or replaced, rodding a rad is cheap.

    I would also consider a trans cooler and eventually I'll fit an oil temp sensor to the engine oil.

    Suspension wise the factory suspension has a tendency to pitch a lot, this is amplified while towing and is not stable, ie the oscillation gets bigger as you go faster. We can safely tow at 90kmh but around 100 kmh the oscillation starts and gets a bit scary. Not a big issue but worth noting, this is likely to be different to an outback.

    I don't believe the pitching is a tongue weight issue, we are around 50kg tongue weight.

    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  7. Hey guys, from a technical perspective. you aren't describing cavitation as such.

    Cavtitation occurs when the pressure on the suction side of the pump drops too low (usually a negative value determined by the pump design) for the pumps given amount of lift. This boils the fluid on the suction side of the pump and the bubbles then collapse on the impeller.

    What you guys are describing is more like what I would refer to as dead-heading a pump. This is where the fluid essentially stalls (relative to the impeller) and you get fluid slip on the impeller (like compressor surge).

    It sounds like you are driving the pump off the end of its operational curve, and this is driving the current draw up and frying the pump motor.

    Can someone measure a dead pumps electrical resistance versus a good pump?

    Cavitation would destroy the impeller and maybe the shaft bearings/surfaces. Dead-heading will burn out the motor.



    Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

    • Like 5
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