les666

I just did this myself a few weeks ago. You need to ground the projector to the chassis as well so that both low and high work at the same time. I can take a pic of what I did in the morning if you want?

If the check engine light is on then it will be in limp mode which will be wastegate pressure which I think is about 7psi and runs like arse. What line do you have your boost gauge plumbed into? Have you had a chance to check the wiring yet? Did it boost cut before you put the controller in?

No. I just had it turned off and it didn't affect the car at all. But then again mine is an auto bg5a and peak boost on primary is 11psi but then I still have stock exhaust and stock boost control.

Maybe set it to change over at 4500 or 5000 and see what happens. Is the check engine on all the time whether the controller is on or off? I would go back and check your wiring. Make sure that the striped wires go to the ecu and that the plain coloured wires go the other way. If you need here is a partially translated manual I put together with some help from a dude on uklegacy.com. https://www.dropbox.com/s/0uzrco2j7wl55dr/Zerosports%20Controller.pdf

Have you checked the secondary bypass valve? Could be leaky? Which can throw a code 66 at 4-4500 rpm. So it's stuck in limp mode even with the controller off?

Replaced the under manifold intake on my Bg5. What a b*#ch of a job! Crank case breather just crumbled to bit and numerous hoses were super brittle and broke so had to replace all of them too! Ran out of light so will finish it up tomorrow. Shouldn't take too long, just gotta refit alternator, power steering pump, header tank, refill with coolant and bleed and put the intercooler back on.

Yeah it's pretty easy once you get the air box out on the drivers side and the battery and wiper bottle out on the passenger side. If you need a hand give me a bell in the weekend!

Just txt a dude I know that might have some coils... Will let you know ASAP.

Does it have an alarm? Could be set via that if so...

Hopefully that sorts it out for you! I don't think I ever tried that. I did try the double earth like the auto be/bh's at one stage I think?

Yeah dude it is a wee bit far... Hopefully there is someone nearer that has one you can try!

Yeah yours will be a rev b or c. I'm in timaru. So car runs fine with controller off?

I used to get cel 62 as well it kept opening the ecv at idle and triggered the code. I always thought it was a dodgy controller and got another one. But yeah as Rosssub says recheck your wiring. I might switch to my old controller and see if it still throws a 62... EDIT... I just checked my old controller and it is still bung. Opens the ecv. Have you got the dip switches set properly?

Yeah a bit confused? Yours being a 97 will be bg5b which has 3 plug ecu. The autos got a big single plug ecu. Let us know how you get on with the mechanic and what codes are coming up!

Yeah mine is bg5a so yeah 4 plug. Nah never goes into limp mode whilst driving only at start up. You get cel whilst driving?

Yeah I only ever get diff pressure sensor. With a ZS controller you will always have code 65 logged but it usually doesn't cause the light to come on or chuck it into limp mode except on rare occasions. Apparently according to the guys on uklegacy it's quite common for it to happen occasionally. The ecu in my car is an 8C prova job.

It goes into limp mode but turn car off and then back on again and cel goes away. Only happens every now again since getting rid of turbo timer. Mainly when there's a frost. I have the checklist somewhere for diagnosing/fixing codes somewhere... Apparently if I recall properly sometimes for codes like diff pressure sensor and positive and negative exhaust control solenoid it can be traced back to the ignition signal which is why I got rid of the turbo timer.

I get one every now and again, usually when it's super cold. It used to come on quite a bit but then I took out my turbo timer (cheap apexi copy) and the code doesn't come up as much. The code I get is code 65 Differential pressure sensor which will always show up when you read the codes.

Pretty sure that the wastegate on the secondary isn't used anyway so just block the hose that goes from the BBoD. Everything else should just bolt straight in.

Looking awesome dude! I feel like I should be doing something to my car now! Don't know what? It just feels like I should! Good work! I can't wait to see the end result!

"I thought I would share my experience with the dreaded code 66 so that hopefully someone else can benefit. I recently bought a 1994 BG5 twin turbo with a damaged gearbox. I got it cheap but because of the gearbox problem I could not really test drive it properly but the previous owner assured me that apart from the gearbox issue there is nothing wrong with the car. Needless to say, after installing a new gearbox from the wreckers I took the car for a drive only to find that as soon as it starts to boost I get a CEL and it turned out to be code 66. After a little bit of cursing I got over my urge to pay the guy a visit in the middle of the night and sat down and started reading. The information floating around the web is very useful, although some of the supposed remedies are not. I am not one to go into something and start messing around cleaning things without first finding a fault. Too many times I have read of people thinking they have fixed the problem only to come back a day or so later saying they the problem is back. I connected a couple of boost gauges one to the primary side of the intercooler and one to the secondary so that I could see what was going on. Primary boost would come on to about 5-7psi then back off as the gate opened in the intercooler and the exhaust valve opened up. The boost would not come back and the CEL would come on!! Without typing an essay listing absolutely everthing I did, in short I wired open some valves, closed off others, blocked some vacuum hoses and moved around the boost gauges until I could get an understanding on what was going on. I came to the conclusion that the secondary turbo was indeed spooling but the charged air was disappearing. Why the primary turbo was only producing 7psi I will get into soon, but I tested the boost solenoid in the LH wheel well and that was working. I removed the solenoid box (valve box), connected the wires under the dash and tested each solenoid. All were working except one - the one that opens to the absolute pressure sensor which is in the solenoid box. The solenoid metered out OK in ohms (around 40) but the ECU was not switching it. I manually earthed the solenoid and it operated fine. I double checked it by swapping some wires with another one and the solenoid was definitely fine so I guess the ECU does not trigger this one in test mode and this is not the cause of any issues. As a side note, the solenoids can be disassembled very easily and cleaned with a solvent, blown out and reassembled with not too much trouble. It also gives for a good opportunity to inspect the internals for damage or wear. I also think I know why some people get 45 errors after cleaning the solenoids - the absolute pressure sensor on some models sits at the top of the solenoid box (the only device with only 1 hose attached). Spray carby cleaner or solvent in that thinking it is a solenoid and you will probably ruin it. So, next I thought that the secondary bypass valve (blow off valve) may have not been switching properly or have been slow to operate between preperatory cycles and supercharging so I simply rewired the hose instead of going through the solenoid box and being switched in two modes (allowing for preperatory spinning, and then charging) I made it function with no preperatory stage. Simply take the vac hose from the primary side of the manifold (#3 I think) and stick it onto the secondary bypass valve in place of the one coming from the solenoid box. Took the car for a spin and no 66 error. A pretty bad VOD but I could definitely feel primary spool, exhaust valve open and the boost drop off, and then the second turbo kick in. I reconnected the solenoid box and tested again. CEL and 66 error straight away. I then removed the secondary bypass valve and blew down through it as if the turbo were spooling - the air came out of the pilot hole where the vac hose connects. The diaphram had split inside the valve . I replaced the valve and yippee we have both turbos, only a very small VOD and NO CEL lights I can see that valve failing quite often - it is not the same as the #1 BOV as it allows venting under pressure until positive pressure is applied to the pilot hole. Anyways, we now have boost with no CEL but only 5-7 PSI. I had already tested the boost control solenoid so I knew that was not the cause. I looked deeper and found that some dim wit had removed the orifice in hose #23 off the primary wastegate line. Obviously with this missing the boost control solenoid is as good as useless. I didn't have a spare so I used the on from the #2 hose as a guide for size and then sorted through some Weber idle jets in my collection until I found one that suited. I think it was a 50F8 from memory an I cut it in half and shoved it in #23. A quick spin around the block and yippee we have 12psi primary, back off to around 4 in the VOD and then back up to 12 and with a rise to 13 before the gear change. The short of this is, I have studied the hell out of the pneumatics and electronics that control the turbos on these cars and feel that I have a pretty good handle on it now. Don't go spraying too much carby cleaner around unless you actually find something worth cleaning. I have read too many reports of people ending up with more issues. Check your secondary bypass valve with it removed from the car. If you don't have a spare one and you are getting 66 codes, re route the vac hoses and retest (I probably need to take some pics to illustrate what I mean here. It works well and all you get is a slightly longer VOD). If anyone is getting 66 codes and have not found the cause yet, I hope this helps. Sorry for the lengthy waffle. Edited by chesty, 09 August 2009 - 12:29 PM." http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.php/topic/96441-my-code-66-story/ Small excerpt from thread in UK. Follow the link if you want to read some more.

I found when I got code 66 it was due to the secondary bypass valve leaking. I replaced that and haven't had it appear again.

Also check the secondary bypass valve. I found mine leaked and was the source of my code 66

Or you can go silicone... https://www4.eaccounts.co.nz/eOrder_v1.asp?sListRecnum=183726

Didn't do anything today but in the weekend I did an oil change on the legacy and the commodore and while having a quick look for leaks on the legacy noticed that the bolts on the passenger side coil packs were undone and the bracket for the O2 sensor on the bottom of the cam cover wasn't even attached... I'm guessing the mechanic who did the cambelt forgot check it all over when he finished. Oh well? I guess I won't be using them anymore. Especially since they are always reluctant to do anything on the legacy. I also switched my headlights to the gtb projectors!