les666

Dude! Awesome thread! I think I may have to try this later today in my BG5!

Replaced both top and bottom radiator hoses and filled with new coolant. The bottom was a little bit leaky and looked like it wasn\'t to far form splitting. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Today I changed both front and rear sway bar links to alloy ones. What I thought was going to be a quick job turned into a good couple of hours as one of the old links had fused to the bolt. I think I may have to invest in a grinder and maybe a dremmel cos cutting the bolt off with a small hand saw sucked! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

You could still just use the ej20r block with the heads from the ej20h... Will probably need to use the same sized head gaskets from the ej20h as I think the compression ratio is 9:1 and the later model ej20r is 8:1. Someone on here should be able to confirm though.

Yeah re pinning would suck but swapping the entire loom from one to the other maybe slightly less sucky?

Wouldn\'t replacing complete engine and sensors and re loom using the rev c be the best option? Cos isn\'t the bg5a 183kw running grey injectors whereas the bg5c is what? 206kw with yellows? Plus easier to convert to single turbo if that way inclined? Maybe something to think about...

Here you go dude. I\'m thinking it\'s the next thing I switch out too. http://www.staparts.co.nz/product_41_AIRINTAKE.php

Not too sure. May have to see if there any dry joints that may be the problem... Also if anyone is keen one of the guys on UKLegacy gave me an english translation of part of the install instructions which I combined with other info... https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5lwKKIAoMQJdmttZWVDUXZLdDg/edit?usp=sharing

So I have finally managed to sort this out... Dodgy controller! Got a second from Japan so I could test and try and rule the controller out before saving me a headache trying to find a short or some other reason it wouldn\'t work, got it super cheap as it it didn\'t come with the loom. It arrived, I plugged it in and nothing. Face plate didn\'t light up pulled it apart and its getting power as there is an led inside that lights up but nothing else. Then the other day a controller with no loom shows up on trade me so I grab this one too. It arrived today so I plug it in to test it and no more cel! Awesome! So took the wagon for a spin and its like driving a different car!

Pretty sure that the previous owner before this dude had it in his manual before converting to single turbo as I was just looking through stuff on my lost watch list on Trade me... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=650033662

Mine is an auto and vod sucks unless you have you have your foot flat. Yeah I managed to get my prova ecu for $150. Got a zs controller but I think it\'s knackered as the ecv opens up as soon as you turn it on and the check engine light comes on. Don\'t think it\'s the wiring as it\'s all sweet but the dip switches don\'t seem to do anything. Does it with both the prova and standard ecu. I decided to grab the one off trade me without the loom to see if that makes any difference. If not then I\'m gonna have to go through and check every plug between the ecu, ignition and solenoid. If still no luck I may have to just give up and ditch the controller.

Yeah a lot of guys on uklegacy swap auto ecu\'s into manuals and vice versa. Check that the mines board inside is there and whether the chips are sealed as I\'m pretty sure mines put a heap of resin over their chips to protect their maps. I have a prova ecu in mine and it\'s not a huge improvement. Car seems slightly livelier and boost is a lot steadier. But yeah, can\'t hurt just chucking it in and seeing how she goes.

Yeah you need the black loom as it has stuff in the wee black box on the loom to make the whole thing go. I offered the dude $80 so I could have it as a back up. Its pretty useless without the loom and unfortunately Zerosports no longer makes the controllers so I have no idea where you could get one.

Today it was time to change spark plugs and while I had the air box out I did the old snorkelectomy oh and I re-routed my window washer lines through the bonnet cos I think they were getting a bit mashed by the strut brace. Next weekends jobs will be to change the coolant and bleed the system and make up some brackets for the front brake lines.

Fitted new turbo timer cos the old one had a shagged power button and am in the middle of switching to silicone inter cooler hoses and fitting a carbon strut brace but need to go get a larger hose clamp for the secondary and am having clearance issues with my bonnet... Oh well...

Try this... http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/2000-2002/Subaru/Legacy/1894.html iirc you just need the 12v Constant, Starter and ignition wires...

Just tightened up the power steering belt. Was sick of all the squeaking in the morning when it was cold.

Slapped some V7 STI Red KYB\'s into my BG5. Even reversing out the drive to go drop some stuff off I could feel the difference! Don\'t think the missus is gonna like it though...

So yesterday I busted out my multimeter and checked all wires and continuity was sweet. No breaks at all in any of them. So I\'m guessing something is up with the controller itself... It would be good if someone in Timaru, or even between Ashburton and Oamaru had one I could plug in to make sure though... On the up side though, I got around to putting in the Prova 8C and so far it seems like a small upgrade. Haven\'t really given it heaps yet, will give it a couple of days but first impressions seem to have a little more torque before coming on to boost and preparatory mode seems to have shifted about 200 revs higher. I haven\'t put it through to full twin mode yet so still yet to see how vod is affected.

Yeah I soldered lines 1-5 in but used bullet crimps between the soldered splice and controller. Will check their connections to make sure. Hopefully the issue lies there...

So I\'m still yet to sort out the code 62... Oh well... I\'ll get to it at some stage. Have checked all of the wiring over and over and still at a loss. Have read that it may be a short in the wiring but wouldn\'t that mean that the cel comes on when the controller isn\'t running? I\'m not in any real hurry to sort it cos this was waiting for me when I got home from work today...

Yeah I could try adding a second earth. I thought that was just for the B\'s & C\'s autos but I\'ll give anything a bash but probably not till tomorrow though. Oh and will take a more organised approach to the dip switches as I have only switched them up and down in no real order.

Yeah alot of the UK guys reckon they have the cel all the time but a few of them say that the light turns off and that their cars don\'t go into limp mode. I dunno? I\'m quite determined to figure this out though!

Yip all wires with white stripes are heading to ecu. Brown wire is connected to pin 10 on the 12 pin plug so both exhaust valve solenoid wires are wired in correctly. I just tried resetting the controller via the black button behind the face plate and to check that it was resetting I adjusted the crossover points and nothing changed. Anyone know if there\'s more to doing the reset than merely pushing that button?

Yeah I figured that out. So the wiring seems to be correct and no cel\'s until I turn the power on to the controller. So I kind guessing faulty controller? as I have reset the controller via the wee button behind the face plate. Maybe if the controller is on when I turn the car off, leave car battery disconnected for the day to reset ecu and maybe the ecu will see the readings as normal or within range and adapt? Or does anyone in Timaru have a controller I test this with?