Marky

Have a hunt around here y0 http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/search/index.html?keywords=backpressure&x=0&y=0 This is like the DIY bible, nebermind those MCM clowns this is the OG

Borrowed a tactrix 2.0 cable from andy_mac, and woooo some success. I can get the ROM onto my laptop, which is a start. ECU ID is A4SH701H, learning view can see it with the engine on or off, so we're onto a win My problem now is getting it defined, I see a lot of googling ahead to try and work this sh!t out. Why can't it just be plug & play like it says on the box! Watch this space (unless someone, anyone, has already done the hard work for me please sing out haha)

Stahlcar, trademe

What do ya know, enginuity lets me log properly, neat Learning view and ecuflash no go but... That's a hell of a bonus for anyone fiddling with anything earlier than 02, can actually see what it's doing rather than crossing fingers

1psi less boost, -5 deg less timing across the board and 10 deg more IAT = The $60 cable works for this at least, going to fiddle with enginuity etc and see if I can pull the rom or at least do a proper log Also gizz me your tactrix ow I text you like hours ago

Rookie, should have put some $$ on it

Yeah man, blitzen is a styling kit and nothing more Does give you better resale than most mind you Any questions fire away, between the community here we've got it all sorted more or less despite a few odd opinions The UK forums do have some good info but not the same DIY approach as here, and the US ones don't even get this car so half the posters are kiwis anyway

Nah, just block the intake and jam a compressor into a vacuum hose It amazing how many cars have minor leaks, it's a two minute test to do (if you have a compressor anyway) I wouldn't say it's dangerous as such, but it'd pay to be nice to the car till you find out the reason for it. Poor mileage also points towards a bad AFM or leak too

I'm in TGA too, I can swap out the MAF with you sometime if you want to test it Can also do a leak test, sounds like a vacuum leak

Does it have a venty blow off valve?

That's where you go up to a GM MAF, the likes of the big 85mm truck / LS3 ones - none of this Z32 nonsense (Q45 is the upgrade from that too) Mine peaks around 290g/s and wondering how much of that is purely screwy AFM readings, it goes good but not *that* good

Find this kinda interesting, seems to be a really direct correlation between g/sec airflow (measured on stock AFM) and whp - like to a degree it's a near on 1:1 relationship with most cars, with some wiggle room Has anyone on here looked at the same, like "car dynos at 200wkw, and peaks at 275g/s airflow" - I'm just kinda curious. And also want to compare my car

Yeah, it's just cranking it over

Winner winner chicken dinner Don't buy one off trademe, either scam a cheap second hand -known to be good- one here or brand spanking new from armstrongs is about $140-180 Or try cleaning it, nothing to lose

Nah don't go for a drive (tho you can), just unplug it and see if the idle changes, it'll be quite apparent. The car will just go into limp-home mode and -should- bring up a check engine light When the AFM's in them go bad what they sometimes do rather than fail outright, is just start reading waaaaay off true, so they run like a bag of poos but the car doesn't know it as such If you pull it out, (the afm element), have a look down the sensor at the mirror surface. If there's any dirt/grit, oil from an air filter or even water staining on it it can make it fault out They -can- be cleaned but it's pretty hit and miss (use something like isopara alcohol, something you'd use to clean electronics that won't leave residue)

I bet 5 internets it's the AFM Unplug it and see if it runs any different (p.s what was the last thing you fiddled with on the car)

You can't "tune" for a BOV either, Sounds like yours is simply faulty A blow off valve won't make your car eat coolant, unless as above it leaking has managed to cause the motor to ping it's way to a damaged head gasket (via leaking boost = super hot turbo output temps, leaking in vacuum = unmetered air and maybe lean conditions?)

Buy a stock STi turbo and exhaust manifold setup, that's bolt on and capable of what you're asking (there's a wealth of info on what can flow what and which is best for what) Exhaust is going to be custom made I assume anyway Intake is a variety of simple intake pipes - they are about $100, all are much of a muchness really Stock 550cc injectors wouldn't be far off those power numbers unless you're on E85 The "Legacy" bolt on path would be the expensive and hard road to take, treating it as simply a "EJ20" upgrade means you don't have this slightly oddball, bespoke vehicle to deal with, remember all the bolt on parts are designed around fitting into the bastard cramped subaru engine bay setup. With a small amount of fabrication (and I mean -small-) you could place whatever turbo you wanted, wherever you wanted, run your own intake, exhaust and intercooling arrangement, and spend half as much as having to buy the "bolt on" components

^^ those or if budget stretches install FMIC, it does absolute wonders for economy, VOD and outright power Also the under manifold silicone hoses wake them up a bit too Don't buy a boost controller, least not an electronic one Total cost under 1k Power gain - stock 120-130wKw up to 160-170ish wkw "Hose ten" mod isn't a mod as such, it's a 20 second blocking of one vacuum hose and it makes a massive world of difference If feeling real creative you can swap out the primary cartridge for a VF27 for a ridiculously fast spool up I have some examples, I should also update my half assed "guide" again

To be fair what you're looking for isn't so much a "legacy" upgrade path, just look online (or here) for a recipe for a 400hp EJ20 There isn't much required and the factory STi parts can get to that level with a little push in the right areas, and do it all day, forever (ish) If the motor isn't in a stock chassis then the normal "bolt on" mods don't apply, just give it the right turbo, let it breathe (in and out), and give it enough fuel and robert's your mother's brother

How do I get those side indicators in the front wings out? Without breaking them

WHAT IF YOU CHANGED IT EARLY

So confused, why do I have an intake leak Oh wait Fixed that problem by installing a new gasket, or so I thought That then continued to leak, reason for that it turns out was one of the bolts I used (the one in the most bastard location at the back) was the wrong one and had grabbed maybe a single turn of thread.... Before stripping the thread in the block. Unbeknownst to me. Longer bolt found, problem solved, inlet manifold clamped down evenly, no more pheeeeeEEEEEEEEEEEp noise on boost, yuss Also made a proper pipe for air filter (replacing skody corrugated one)

Yeah, it's weird. Definitely leaking at the gasket, blocked off the throttle body and put a compressor down one of the vacuum fittings, sounded like a tea kettle. Will persevere Gaskets are new from subaru, changes with how hot/long the motor runs (no leak when cold, progressively worse with time & temp). Kinda weird but I'll work it out

To be fair there are a *lot* of sticky threads