lowandy

Has anybody heard of using these on a subaru? would they work the same? http://www.gktech.com/index.php/stainless-steel-tie-rod-end-lock-spacers.html

So ive got the BG GTB gearbox in my car which has the circlip around the white bush on the bottom which is under the car, while on my first run on the skidpan the circlip fell off and my shifter popped out making it difficult to change gears. I then replaced it and the other day just shifting nicely it popped off again while trying to go into 5th resulting in my hand punching the stereo. Now ive been to pickapart to fond a replacement circlip but have found there are two different types of bushes, 1. The one like mine which has the circlip on the bottom and 2. Which has the circlip on the top which is able to be accessed through the interior. My questions are 1. What keeps making this circlip fall off? 2. Am i able to swap out the shifter bush to the 2nd option which has the circlip in the top?

So would an auto diff fit manual axles? I dont care about ratios because rwd

Well i feel like a complete idiot. After doing all the ignition test it was still running badly so me and my cousin swapped the spark plugs from my 250t and grabbed the set from my donor car gtb to rule out it was the spark plugs. Still the same result and decided id take it into my mates workshop within the week. My cousin mentioned to me that he thought the leads might have been on the wrong cyl so lead #2 on cyl #4. I found that weird as i hadnt swapped them but none the less i swapped them the day before taking it into the workshop and guess what, she runs mint. I was confused at why they were swapped as i hadnt done it myself. This is what im 99% sure what happened, i got water from the sprinklers on the coilpack and was misfiring, i pulled the leads off the plugs and let them dry out, i pulled the plugs out and checked them and got the socket stuck on one of the plugs trying to put them back in, i gave up and let my mates take over while i walked off my frustration 8) and im guessing they put them on the wrong way and thats what gave me a huge headache for a month hahaha i knew after doing all the test that it would be something small and stupid but didnt realize that. Thanks everyone for the help and im really sorry to waste everyone time

I dont have access to another injector so might grab one from pickapart if i cant figure out anything else. I have pulled the cam cover off and checked the marks, when i replaced my waterpump i had to mark the belt and cams obviously. I will grab a photo as best i can with the limited space.

Tried it with o2 unplugged = no difference I also put a screwdriver on the injectors to hear the ticking and ehich all 4 were ticking, also i suspect that the "arcing" noise is actually coming from the injectors as it has the same pulse and sound to it. Any ideas?

Hmm no i havent, ill unplug it tonight and leave it to air out overnight and if that works. Thanks for the idea

Ok i unplugged it but didnt make a difference, also replaced the "Power TR UNIT" but didnt make a difference either.

Interesting, ill try that when i get home. So just unplug the alternator plug?

Ok so swapped over to a different coilpack off a mates car and still didnt fix it. So what would the odds be that both leads are lacking to give enough spark? Ive got offset leads so 2 are longer than the other 2 but on my mates cars he has equal length ones so i couldnt try them out. I still have to try swap out injectors to see if thats the problem. If anyone on the North Shore able to give me a hand maybe to diagnose the problem or have a spare set of injectors laying around. (Any working ones will do) If thats not it then i will get it towed to a mechanics.

Havent tried replacing coil/ignitor to solve the problem just yet but will get around to it. I checked my cam markings and they are all the same as when i replaced my waterpump ages ago. Still runs like a bag of shit and backfires alot. Had it running on the driveway on idle and kept stabbing the gas abit to 2k revs then drop and repeat and kept backfiring. Pop the hood and the Cat converter is red hot hahah

I have access to a multimeter which can test resistance, voltage etc so will try what you have said. Thanks for the input and yes i will be changing spark plugs soon. [quote name='evowrx said: Im calling spark. See if you can borrow bits and swap em out till you track it down. DOnt be buying bits just to try them tho. Got vids of the skids? Yep im possible going to try borrow my mates coilpack and leads out of his Brighton if the igniter plug is the same. No videos at the moment as my mate hasnt gotten them off his gopro. There will be videos and pictures when its back up and running.

I dont have a direct photo of the coil pack at the moment but this is the only pic of my engine bay. Coil pack is on the back lefthand side of intake manifold and red leads running to heads.

Ok so i borrowed a tester that goes into the injector plugs, when the plug get power the light flashes. Tested all plugs and all of them flashed so electricity is getting to the injectors. Took injectors off the fuel rail and put key on ACC, fuel is pumping thru so the rail isnt blocked. Might just go to pickapart and grab some cheap injectors and see if that fixes the problem. Apparent symtoms of faulty injectors "Running excessively rich, cylinder misfires, plug fouling, poor fuel economy, low power, CEL. These would be symptoms of a faulty injector although a "dirty" injector can cause similar problems. Run some injector cleaner though your tank and that should clean it up a little. If your not having any problems they are probably just fine. A dirty injector causes issues mostly by poor atomization of fuel. I had an injector with a cracked seat that causing issues in my truck, the fuel was sprayed so poorly that it wasn\'t igniting at all."

Im not too sure, i know that it isnt coilpacks like what turbo motors have and mines non turbo

Possibly weaker spark somewhere but how would i check that and fix that? New leads and spark plugs? While the cars running i can pull out the passengers side leads and nothing will happen but if i try do it to the drivers side then the rpm drop and car stalls.

Ok okok seems we have quite the interesting situation.... Borrowed a mates compression tester after work today and heres the results: Drivers side 193psi 189psi Passengers side 201psi 180psi So in my books that rules out HG blown. Took cam cover off and the cams and belt are still timed correctly so not that either. Im out of ideas so feel free to suggest something if you have an idea Cheers

Couldnt get around to comp testing in the weekend as was busy with work. Fiddled with it abit today, swapped drivers side spark plugs onto passengers side to rule out spark plugs somehow both failing at same time but wasnt spark plugs. Something i noticed is at idle (900RPM) the engine is very shaky like the mounts are stuff but once i rev it to 1100-1600RPM then the engine because steady, then from 1600-2500RPM it becomes shaky again and the whole car shakes like a dam earthquake but after 2500RPM it seems to steady out again. Seems weird to me. I took it for a drive up and down my road and obvious lack of power, backfires when under load (i live on a hilly street). No CELs or anything have popped up. Will take off cambelt cover on passengers side to view timing marks just to be sure. Also assuming its a headgasket gone, i found a headgasket kit on trademe for $300 which includes MLS Head gasket and all other gaskets needed for the head, intake, exhaust, rocker cover, valve etc. The thing is that they arent genuine from subaru and im not really keen to fork out heaps on genuine so was wondering if the MLS headgasket will be fine and im not too fussed about the other gaskets as my rocker cover ones have gone long ago so might aswell replace them while im there. Cheers

Yea thats true but for some reason it still runs, like i can start it and run it without having plugs on injectors or leads on te spark plug and it will still run the same. From what i know my engine is a replacement and done 150000kms on what i pressume are factory HGs. My next thought was maybe the cambelt has slipped a tooth or few on the passenger side but the belt is in good condition but i might pull the covera off and have a look at the marks on the cams and belt to rule this out

Yup ive done this and the lead sparks to the ground, put spark plug in the lead and touch spark plug to ground and it sparks where its meant to on the plug but wont work when i put it back inside the block Im not completely sure about blown headgasket because ive always thought they right right but overheat or whatever but maybe it is headgasket you reckon Boon? I will have conpression test done eiter tonight or tomorrow to confirm. Fingers crossed its not time for a new engine

So apparently might be bent valve or blown headgasket. Blown headgasket would make sense since its a EJ25D which are prone to blowing the gaskets but still doesnt make sense why only the passenger side pistons arent working. Ill be doing a compression test tomorrow or this weekend and hopefully that will let me know if i can rule out those two.

I have a O2 Sensor off a 97 GTB if you would be interested?

Hey guys Just spent yesterday at Hampton Downs skid pad where my car was running good. Then suddenly i drove over the water sprinklers and im pretty sure i now have water in the electrics :-\ The car only runs on the 2 drivers side cylinders and 2 passenger ones are not firing. They are getting fuel because it backfires and smells of fuel, and when leads are plugged on spark plugs i can hear it arcing, once i remove the plugs off the injectors from that side then the arcing stops. Ive put electrical tape on the leads but still does it. N/A EJ25D Any ideas?

Currently doing a manual conversion and needing to know what to do to make the auto wiring/ecu work with the manual box? Standard 2.5 N/A 1995 legacy, not sure on type of ecu

Heres a DIY i followed when i did mine http://www.sl-i.net/FORUM/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=14713