nismovzr2003
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Posts posted by nismovzr2003
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The lower boots have perished. Going with whiteline or nolathane links; being that they are meant to be aftermarket heavy duty, wont they be better for track use?
What about the rest of the bushings, replace with OEM rubber or upgrade to nolathane?
Cheers
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Starting to replace all the bushes with nolathane and the front swaybar links are looking past it.
Its gets used for the odd track day every now and then and thought it was time to start upgrading bushes, links, etc.
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Morning all,
I'm starting to replace all my bushes and swaybar links, quick question;
I have the following front swaybar links on my 98 Subaru GC8 V4 STI Coupe,
http://s850.photobucket.com/user/Aaron_McLean/media/OEM_zpstnbngwnb.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1
Can I use the following (for example Whiteline KLC32),
http://s850.photobucket.com/user/Aaron_McLean/media/KLC32_zpsslgt1epy.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2
Or, Do I have to use these (for example Whiteline KLC139),
http://s850.photobucket.com/user/Aaron_McLean/media/KLC139_zpsmu6lb4zg.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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Anyone used the Australian made Hakon adjustable suspension?
Any info, user feedback, etc would be awesome.
How does/would it compare to the likes of BC Golds, Truhart, etc?
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Anyone know much / anything about the Nakamoto brake rotors advertised on TM;
https://www.trademe.co.nz/1657429043
Need to replace my brembo discs and wanting something for daily use plus the odd play day / track day here and there.
Would love DBA 4000s or some Endless rotors, just dont have the coin for those at present.
Any thoughts, advise, ideas greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
Quicky query,
In the process of rebuilding my brembo calipers and have purchased the appropriate seal rebuild kits, however these kits dont include the small o-rings that are fitted internally between the two caliper halves.
Has anyone run into the same issue, if so where abouts did you manage to get some from? Are they anything special, e.g. heat / temp resistant, etc.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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9 minutes ago, loner said:
Is there fluid leaking from any part of the hydraulic system?
Doesn't appear to be
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3 hours ago, Joker said:
edit : here's the "How to bleed your clutch" post if it helps / matters
Yep exactly what I did...hasn't changed anything unfortunately lol
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34 minutes ago, Dairusire said:
Believe it or not, I've got this exact same issue. Only happens when going Wide open throttle.
I'm running a 5 speed master and slave on a 6 speed clutch and flywheel (hawkeye gearbox).
The entire clutch setup is brand new as well.
I'm running a 6 speed box with 6 speed slave cylinder, 5 speed clutch and starter at the moment. Have got a 6 speed starter motor on the shelf in preparation, plan is to upgrade clutch and flywheel. For the life of me I cannot work out why it's doing it lol.
Will have a read through the article that Joker mentioned.
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Hey guys,
Quick query,
Under normal driving conditions the clutch pedal returns fully out, however on full throttle / boost the pedal sticks in and doesnt return and I have to toe flick it to get it to pop back out.
Now initially I thought there may have been air in the clutch line so I unbolted the slave cylinder, inverted and bled the system however there was no air present.
Is there anything else I should be considering?
I'm aware that the clutch fork spring is not installed, would this have a part to play?
Thanks
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Does anyone know of any resale outlets in NZ that sell fibreglass front fenders for the gc8 model?
Going wider in rims/tyres so trying to source some replacement guards.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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Nah, you would have worked it out correctly. The higher the offset, the more the wheels will sit in-board, hence my +48 at 8.5 wide having minimal clearance to the strut (on the rear), so that's why I used the 3mm spacer. Higher offset also means less wheel/tyre sitting out from the guards so easier to make them fit before having to use flares/widebody etc. Anything over 8.5" wide on a GC8 is going to have to be lower offset (generally in the 30s) otherwise you do run into the inner clearance issues. So yeah, if your new wheels offset is +35, then you will fine for inner clearance, and just have to worry about outer clearance.
Cheers for all the help Tony, much appreciated!
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I use this:
Yeah thats what i used.
Going to a 18x8.5 with a +35 offset, this will move 5.3mm further away from the strut, with my current clearances and going to a 245 tyre i should be able to maintain enough clearance between the strut and the inside of the tyre.
Does this sound about right?
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For what it's worth, I was running 17x8.5 +48 with 240 slicks on my car. Had to run a 3mm slip-on spacer in the rear to clear the strut (well it did clear without the spacer, but only just, like 2mm!, so chucked the spacer on for a little more room).
My rear guards were pumped out as much as possible before they started looking like sh*t (all folded and wavy etc) and I ended up with no contact with the guards - although I was running far more than road car camber (-3 in the rear), so with less camber it may be a bit harder to get the clearance you need with standard guards. Fronts are easy enough to pull out, and I ground the inner lip off to make some extra room - plus running -4.5 camber helps (again, prob not ideal for a road car though).
I am now running 18x9 +20 (again with 240 slicks) and they sit out of the guards a whole lot more so have got bolt on flares to get around that problem (along with a bit of cutting & welding in the rear to get the required clearance).
Cheers Tony.
Going back to my current situation, with my 5x100 17x7.5 running 225 45 r17 tyres, ive got approximately 15-20mm in the front and 10-15mm in the rear in relation to strut inner tyre clearance.
I roughly worked out that i'd need to run a +35 or +30 offset in a 17x8.5 or 18.8.5 to maintain the inner clearance especially with running a 245 tyre, does this sound right?
You mentioned your rims were a +48 offset and still had clearance? Im now wondering if ive worked things out incorrectly?
Any help would be awesome.
Cheers
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How much camber are you running currently? I remember having the exact same combo (V7/225-45) on my coupe at a street sprint once and the rears kept smashing into the guards in potholes. It was scary! You might be up for a wide body graft. NotAWhiteGTB had a hook-up for the S5/6 WRC guards locally if you wanted to go crazy.
I'm running -2 front, and -1 rear.
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Hey guys,
Currently running V7 STI 5x100 17x7.5 rims with 225 45 R17's on my 98 Coupe in order to clear the brembos. I've been investigating replacement options, in particular going to a 8.5" or 9" rim in order to run a 245 tyre.
At present, with my current camber setup I've got approximately 15-20mm clearance in the front between the strut and the inside of the tyre, rears approximately 10-15mm clearance.
Is there a minimum clearance you must maintain in order to not have any contact between the strut and inside tyre wall?
At the moment I've roughly worked out that I'll need to run something around a +30 offset in a 8.5" rim, or 22-25 offset for a 9" rim. Does this sound about right?
I understand that fender flares are most likely required, or depending on the right offset with probably a 8.5" rim you might be able to get away with some fender work only without the need for flares.
If anyone has had previous experience with running larger rim/tyre combinations and what was involved, any help and/or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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Hey guys,
Might be a very silly idea/question, however is it possible to take a later model 17x8 5x114.3 rim and machine to incorporate a 5x100 stud pattern?
I only ask as I'm finding it difficult to find a 17x8" or 17x8.5" in a 5x100 in the right offset to be able to fit with out the need for flares. I either need to run a hub-centric 25mm 5x100 to 5x114.3 adapter/spacer, which in turn will result in needing flares and panel work or purchasing exactly what I need in the right stud pattern and offset which seems to be quite pricey.
Was hoping I could pick up a set of the enkei 17x8 5x114.3 53 offset and convert to 5x100.
I understand the later wrx had a 5x100 17x8 in a 53 offset, whether they clear brembo calipers I'm unsure and locating a set of them is proving to be difficult.
Any help/advice would be awesome.
Cheers.
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Cheers for all the help guys.
If I need to get replacement hubs, does the BP5 happen to share the same with any other models?
Cheers
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Hey guys,
For the life of me I cannot get the spline of the outer CV to come apart from the hub...
I've removed the outer 32mm locking nut.
Have tried 2 methods of removing the half shaft;
1. disconnecting the strut from the hub to allow the hub to rotate forward to allow the outer CV to be removed, and
2. disconnecting the hub from the lower ball joint in order to remove the inner CV first from the gearbox.
Both occasions not being able to get the spline of the outer CV to let go...
What am I missing? Never had this problem with my STI, that removed with no difficulty.
Have tried spraying both sides of the outer CV with lube to see if that helps, no luck.
Any advise/help greatly appreciated.
Cheers
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Hay mate. I pretty shore I got these of you. I have put them on my bc5. Not shore about the gc8 but I did use self tapping bolts I had no other choice. Nismo I know this wont help you to much but if any one else is looking at doing this it might. http://i66.tinypic.com/33trqde.jpg
Also I had to change the fender capping as the indicator would not fit in. But nz new face lifts have one with out it!!
Hey cheers!
Ended up being a 10min job and was quite easy after all
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Does anyone know what the three(3) piston sizes are for the brembo 4 pot fronts and 2 pot rears? Want to make sure I purchase the right replacement seals.
Cheers
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Yes I have mounted these and sold them on again, it is possible but bloody tricky.
When you have the brace bolted up to the door hinges, you then drill holes in the chassis rail where the brace bolt holes are. Remove lights as well you can get in through the end of the chassis rail.
Now the tricky bit, I put the nut on the end of a telescopic magnet and try and align it with the hole then try and feed the bolt through it, takes a bit of practice as in first nut took me 20 minutes to get in but it gets easier and you get the feel for it, once it is threaded through a couple of turns you need a long spanner that reaches down the chassis rail then it's a case of tightening it up.
It is possible to do and I even used both bolts up front even though it's a frustrating process.
Awesome thanks heaps!
Didn't even think about removing the head lights lol.
Would it be any easier using those self tightening type nuts, the ones with the grooved/serrated bottom surface?
Any particular reason for getting rid of them?
Cheers
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Subaru GC8 Front Swaybar Link Replacement
in Brakes, Suspension and Steering
Posted
The adjustable one's from BNT, does anyone have a part number for these? Are they Subaru GC8 specific or a generic item used on a wide variety of vehicles?
Thoughts on rear swaybar links, go aftermarket, e.g. whiteline, Nolathane, etc or reuse the OEM link but replace bushes with Nolathane?
Cheers