Andy_Mac

Do it!, so i don't have to be the test dummy for this stuff

Only downside to going prefacelift is the lack of the 6mt and mildly inferior interior. I'd still go with the facelift if i had to do it again.

No rush on the cable if you're still fiddling with your tune.

Well got it all hooked up and initial impression is its working correctly. Can't do any proper logging to go with the gauge data yet. Thinking about just getting a cheap mechanical boost gauge so i can have boost and egbp both recorded. Should make it a bit more obvious if the egbp does infact reach a point where it starts to exponentially rise independent of boost

Plus Legacy's are way coolerer

Trial setup number one. Get the feeling the exhaust heat might melt it off and if not the capillary tube diameter may be a bit to small to pick it up well but time will tell. Other option will be to just drill the hole bigger and use 1/4inch copper the whole way up to the vac line

Getting pretty good at the old tuning now ay. Can't really call it boganism when fancy software and a laptop are involved can ya Won't meed it for a while. Still hacking my way through making up my EGBP testing setup.

hmmm. That autobend site gives me all kinds of terrible ideas. Maybe full custom is the way to go then afterall. Could almost hack something up myself with some spot welds and get a pro welder to do it nicely.

Quads are definately the way to go but still reckon those ones are just a touch to big to fit nicely into the cutouts

Ah so it was a brazed join that failed though? Did it look like it melted and came out or just cracked off?

Nice. Will probably work out cheaper than the jap options but still enough to make it hard to justify.

You mean the copper capillary tube pulled out of the brass fitting?

Sweet, i'll give them a go. Could have been speaking chinese and the Repco guys would have had no less of a clue what I was on about. Depending on how they've joined it exhaust temps could be an issue too, i'm thinking. The one you showed looks like its just copper brazed to brass. Unless they have used some strange composition silfos i haven't come across yet then the exhaust temp at full noise will surely be within the melting range of it.

Yea NPT seems the more common of the options for everything else in this diameter range. Still struggling to find any vac line kits made up for stuff like this though

Yea true. Well i'll see what the exhaust guys have sitting around. None of the places i've been to have any plugs for metric size threads and claim no one else will off the shelf either so thinking about just seeing if the guys i'm taking it to have plugs and i'll just drill a hole through them and easy flow some copper to it.

Thinking those two spots for getting the ports welded into. The twinscroll headers are extremely small so not sure how welding a full size bung onto one will work out. With my rather crude measurements the external diameter is about 1.5" for each on the headers just before the uppipe flange. And short of going to the other side of the cat chamber thats seems to be the only spot it'll fit on the downpipe since the stock heatshield gets in the way of the opposite side of it. Don't think there's any chance it'd mess up the o2 sensor readings at all

Measures the difference between the two sides, not sure how the digital ones calculate it though. Maybe just two highly sensitive pressure sensors. If one has no movement, pushing/pulling, then it is essentially just measuring the pressure the one side see's and can typically be more sensitive towards small changes than other methods. Say if you hooked both sides up to the intake manifold it would always in theory read zero since its only picking up the difference between the two, regardless of what pressure is being applied to both sides. Thats the basic method they use to calculate the pressure difference

Basically a gauge with two hoses/vac hoses. One positive, one negative. Doesn't particularily matter for digital ones what direction they go but you'd usually have the positive side as the side expected to have the higher positive pressure. We use them for checking pressure drops across filter banks and condensers/evaps for fan efficiencies

Yea as I said, only really even started looking into this stuff a few days ago so pretty clueless right now. I know the obvious one to do is pre turbo but with the number of people saying i've got to go for a much bigger exhaust to get more power i'm intrigued to see what results the stock one gets. Got a couple of digital differential pressure sensors at work that'd probably do the job, apparently they're calibrated to be accurate at single digit kpa values so should pick up almost anything. Guessing just one side tucked up somewhere to get atmospheric pressure and the other in the gas flow? Thats how i'd do it atleast

By 2:1 you're meaning backpressure will be essentially half the boost pressure, or is it the other way around? This is one area i've never really put any research into in the past so pretty green on the whole idea of it So derived from AFM readings mines getting just under 32lb/min. Alright well in that case i might as well just take off the downpipe and headers and get a new port welded into both and go from there. Its alot easier for me to just drop parts in than taking the car in since its not driven daily.

Aren't you still wanting to maintain a certain amount of pre turbo backpressure to help spool? Is that no noticeable difference with stock or a big custom one? I'm kinda more interested in what keeping the stock turbo back exhaust is doing to the performance potential of it. And then the difference between the two when i eventually swap it out. Or is the difference going to be low enough that i'm just wasting my time? For the uppipe is it all that important having it right near the turbo or is at the bottom good enough? Potentially saves needing to completely remove the uppipe if it can be done at the bottom

Was planning on starting with the downpipe to see what kind of pressure the post turbo part of the exhaust is generating. Trying to find tangible data to backup whether a full exhaust is needed or not. Also for a twinscroll won't you need to get bungs installed on both paths of the uppipe, these ones don't have cats in the uppipes either so thats alot of the usual restriction gone

Should be a .hex file for the actual rom and I think its .xml for definitions Yea it was a post from you on another forum that Matt had replied to saying he had it. Assuming you are gorgasmb4 elsewhere.

Alright so talked to a exhaust crowd who can supply and install o2 bungs for next to nothing so figured i might as well just get a 2nd one welded on. Would it be best to have it right at the top of the downpipe nearish the existing o2 sensor or further down near the other end of the downpipe? Don't suppose it'll make much difference other than having less perceived back pressure the further away it is due to the gas cooling?

Good stuff. Emailed him the other day about Marky's one too, since based on some other forum posts he's actually previously tuned a car with the same ecu id.