Andy_Mac

Have you got the stock intake still? Those figures would indicate either you have a decent air leak, aftermarket intake or MAF/O2 sensor problem. 2 and 4 byte should give very similar data. The only downside to using 4 is it uses more data so if you use a few 4 byte parameters you’ll find the read speed will drop significantly so data points will slide further out of sync with each other He can tune it for you, you just need to flash a different ROM to the ECU first as it is the same one as mine. There is an 07 ROM available that worked perfectly for me once I finally got round to flashing it.

Yea that sounds pretty out there. Unless the FPR is internally jamming up and just the shock from you pulling it off and putting it back on temporarily loosens it up.

Or just leave it out and delete the code for cat inefficiency or whatever it throws up when it is disconnected, assuming you are in fact talking about the one down at the bottom half of the downpipe and not the one up near the turbo

RomRaider can be quite a pain to install and get working correctly but it really is what you need to be able to get a LV readout. What are you meaning by resitting it? Removing it and reinstalling? Gearbox on a manual won't be the cause at all.

Not sure whether it really matters or not, but the better way to do it is to just swap the BPV and FPR vacuum source locations rather than teeing. They're not the same size vac hose so not sure how it will go with the factory parts. Worked fine for mine with the aftermarket BPV and FPR though. Have you had it tuned? It could be that there is a learnt timing pull at that point that may be making things worse.

Nah no idea which one it was. Just post up the question in as many as you're part of. Or just try message An Lal / CCT directly in messenger.

Might be able to find someone with the knowledge elsewhere that can at least confirm whether this is the right track to be on. Think I saw a post a little while back on FB where An Lal (can't think of what his username is on here) said he could sort it out for someone who added the controls as we have done.

Even the dodgy Chinesey one that sites lists is still $299, assuming USD. Think a trip to a Subaru dealer for at least a discussion might be the best way to go.

@Technikhaus yea that's the same as my one. SSM3 looks to be able to install programmable modules which I reckon is what is missing. http://blog.obdii365.com/2019/06/26/freessm-vs-ssm-3-vs-ssm-4-subaru-select-monitor/

Don't think it'll be in the ROM though you could try. Most years only have one for manual transmissions anyway. What is the CAL ID for your ECU? Mine for some reason uses the 2012 one as there doesn't seem to be a 2010 or 2011 one available.

Did some more rrading about SSM3 and starting to think you might need the hardware/software to be able to turn this on.

No turning back from here, really hoping I haven't forgotten anything.

Depends how he has come up with that power figure really. Some tuning company providing a hardware/software calibration with no in car testing can be pretty good or pretty bad depending on how keen they are to bend the truth to sell their product. As much as most people dislike the idea I'm a big fan of Virtual Dyno. With the right data, and a lot of it, to feed into it it can be extremely accurate. It's a good way to get a consistent figure that can't be made to look better than it really is. We all know a dyno is the best way to get repeatable load for a repeatable figure but with no shop to shop consistency from calibration or aggressive correction factors used they stir up just as many issues.

I get the feeling the later ones won't really work with FreeSSM as they use the CAN connection to read from the ECU rather than serial as you've said. Can't imagine FreeSSM will show you anything the others won't be able to see?

Cheers. Might give that another go this arvo

Excellent. So blue and red are the ones you used on the connector on the column just past the roll connector? Can't remember which one tried so might have to pull it all apart again to try.

What cable are you using? I found mine wasn't on the standard list for OpenECU and RomRaider so needed to download separate def files to get the connection working properly.

Cool. That was what I did at the steering column but for all I know I could have been using the wrong wires.

Yea see them from your image but not the originals. Lame iOS issue I assume. Edit: Scratch that, working now. Think it was cause I was on a hospital WiFi so they block some sharing sites. @Technikhaus Interested to see how you go. Tried to add the audio ones to mine the other day but It didn't quite go as planned. From my understanding the HU should have been able to work it out without a separate interpreter module but it didn't so still not sure if it was the wires I got wrong or whether it really did need the module. The remote wires came out of the roll connector but didn't make it as far as the HU as those slots are empty on the main audio connectors.

@Technikhaus Not sure if it's just me but those pics don't seem to work?

Personally i’m a fan of blanking plates. it’s hard to guarantee the solenoids are fully closed without them. You can get the blanks that sit between solenoids but keep them all in place which makes the process a little easier. Some shops think they can just turn everything off in the ECU and pull the fuse regardless of whether the solenoids are stuck open or closed which is pretty slack in my opinion. I’m going to be doing the delete on the new car shortly as a just cause i can exercise. Saves waiting for it to become an issue I reckon. They may have replaced the pump (big black part up front) as that is where the electrical concerns are but none of the solenoid parts

Whip the rear seat base off and the little cover on the drivers side and you'll be able to see the problem. When mine was leaking it would leak down in that exact spot as it is right below the pump cradle

Ask this guy if he still has the one's in this car. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/subaru/accessories/listing/2571871173

Different issue for you. You need to have 10, maybe 5? Posts on the forum to see the classified section.

Stock is a TD04HLA Could be a Kinugawa one or something modified by Murch. You can replace it with the TD04HLA, VF44 or VF45. There are some minor differences in oil lines and other general fitment differences between the IHI and MHI turbo’s but no one really struggles to make them fit. You'll want to confirm what you currently have and that it still has the factory mounting design for the exhaust and compressor housings first or a factory one won't fit. And work out why the first one failed. Alot of people just put a new one in and have it fail a month later as they never solved the issue that caused the first to fail. @Hayks has a TD04HLA for sale.