Andy_Mac

As far as TCU tuning you’re probably limited to CCT as I’m not sure any of the others will get into that side of things. Tony and Dave at DTech are legends and unbelievably helpful with dumb questions and support so they always get my vote but not sure they will do TCU stuff

Only really need that in Tauranga where we’ll soon get a third toll road 🥴 Though the current system does actually work reasonably well if you remember to make an account so you don’t get stung admin fees on every bloody trip

The government won’t be keen to pay for hardware/upkeep costs on every fricken petrol car in the country and regular joe sure as hell won’t either so can’t see anything like that materialising.

Idle is always crap after a reset as it needs to relearn so don’t look too closely into that. Those learning view corrections are a bit high but not in the idle region Have you got an aftermarket intake or anything on the car? The two mid figures would indicate something not 100% right But since they’re still in a region where you’re not really making positive pressure in the manifold it doesn’t specifically point to a leak. This is based on how it looks in the old windows program but still helpful.

Will want to double check the sizes. If yours is the normal GR one then no need to go to VA but the auto’s could be smaller

Do a learning view snapshot and see how that looks. That’s usually the best starting point as if there’s massive corrections to fuelling then you’ve probably got a leak somewhere

307bhp probably isn’t that ambitious for some TD04’s. Remember everyone else out there uses wheel hp/kw rather than flywheel/bhp like he does which trips some people up when you start talking numbers. Not fully clued up on the Grimmspeed and Cobb DP’s but know Invidia make RHD specific ones so might find clearance around the steering knuckle is still better with Invidia DTech prices will be similar to Prestige but in my biased opinion they’re top tier and give a heap of uncharged support when needed

Yea only plastic manifold for verticooler so that rules that out without a manifold swap. Definitely no point upgrading with a twin scroll setup but I’d always thought the older single scroll design was a bit lacking. Supposedly the crossover tube is quite small and restrictive. Probably won’t make much more power going aftermarket at this level but can at least transition to equal length.

Not sure on many places doing TCU tuning besides probably CCT/An Lal in Auckland. For general tuning there’s no real reason to go all the way up to Auckland. Prestige in Welly and DTech in Tauranga would give the same results and are half as far away if you’re really not keen to use WRC Developments again. Mod list looks pretty good. -For engine mounts I’d personally go a bit softer, all those shackle style ones promise to be comfortable but really aren’t. For your power needs I’d be going with new STI Group N for engine, trans and trans subframe cushion bushes but it is a bit of personal preference aswell, assuming of course parts for the auto’s aren’t completely different. -Wouldn’t bother doing just an uppipe. Far better off going to a full equal length manifold/uppipe setup. -Definitely go Koyo or Mishi radiator. -For boost solenoid, a generic MAC valve is all it needs to be. Most tuners will sell them way way cheaper than a Grimmspeed one and are essentially the same. -Grab a silicone turbo inlet too since the factory ones are usually pretty stuffed by this age. -I’ve got a Radium AOS for sale if that’s any interest over the IAG

Something rectangle that sits in the top 1/3rd of the vents would be cool, like a P3 gauge but with more specialised info available. Having DCCD there would be cool

Can checked has them as part of their small can gauge or a module individually. Could probably just configure it to flash a section of the screen different colours as you approach the shift point too as another alternative.

It’s generally worth getting a tune done just to get away from the factory one which is very emissions dependent so can be far from great on most Subaru’s. Not sure on VA’s but some of the Legacy’s could get noticeably better economy for cruising which helps a bunch for long trips An aftermarket intake and downpipe along with a tune will really wake it up and even with the on paper figure being not that much higher it can be way nicer to drive. The SI Drive stuff can usually be optimised a bit too so it acts more like separate maps rather than just pedal feel.

Interesting. Had been talking to Niran and reading up on a few others having the same dilemma and they had all basically said you'd have to pay to have it sorted which could be big bucks to get sorted.

Cool idea. Would like some sensors again but definitely need to be proper integrated ones rather than big lumps on the stems. Another one that is a heap more work but very needed is decoding DCCD stuff for the dash so an aftermarket one can display it. Seems a real pain for anyone wanting to go full digital with no way to show current mode/settings.

Ahh yes it is too. I was thinking of the 4th gen Legacy’s where the upper is plastic

Kinda like it. Would look nicer as a single piece that fully replaces the original flat one to have a more flush look.

Have you seen how on the later cars they have both fed from the same reservoir? Haven't seen it myself but it gets talked about a lot on FB pages. Could get lucky and find that res fits straight on our brake master then just run the line down to the clutch however they do it from factory.

That mopar way seems like a heap more effort. The Volvo should be just a matter of new supply and return lines then power. Some people even run it with no signal stuff working so it goes into a sort of limp mode and just runs a fixed percentage assist, something like 60-70% It would be interesting to see real world amp draws on the Volvo, I’d assume it’s usually quite low and only sees anything particularly high during full lock at crawling speeds where there’s probably enough grunt in the battery to negate the shortcoming for short bursts.

Exact reason it peaked my interest. @Gripless the at should be pretty easy for a tuner to sort out then. Some form of feedback if it’s unhappy for some reason might be nice if it even does that but not really needed.

You’d still need to be able to sniff out the data to get the ECU to understand it though, not hard for a shop I guess.

Pretty sure there’s a factory alternator from a Tribecca that’s way bigger than any others but may still keep external dimensions which the track subie guys go to. There are some control modules out there to control them externally. One just has a GPS so at ultra low speeds it adds max assist then slowly tapers back with speed. Hooked onto an aftermarket ECU would be ideal but that’ll be a bit more effort and cost. https://www.servtronic.com/products/new-automatic-gps-volvo-c30-c70-s40-v50-power-steering-controller-kit?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAAR2LGYst-5INecRFaTWGb47DWVpINB73zOkX7_Lb5wke4lu4be8Nx0988gw_aem_MnABhHFABHcxr9eD9n8aKw

Have you seen the electric Volvo power steering pump people are trying these days. Not sure if there are any cert issues with it but it looks like a sweet option. Would mean the alt could get flipped the opposite way for a low running reverse manifold while still keeping AC

What kind of k’s are you looking for? 32k is pretty steep unless its a GV sedan and super low k’s or heavily modified. 20-25k is about the point for a pre facelift GR with somewhere in the 150kkm + area Also EJ25’s aren't super terrible, probably better with an auto where it’s harder to thrash/shock them. The pistons are the main weak point that don't like the abuse or a crap tune

Kinda an age thing but they do insure other vehicles that don't quite fit the standard daily driver criteria. Mines a 2010 but heavily modified and does barely 4kkm a year

How many k’s on the body? 21k value is a joke for a sedan for sure. Is it a daily driver? I'm with classic cover but that's got a soft limit on how many K’s you do a year. Can't remember the exact wording but they do an agreed value that can be over market value by a certain amount but if you want higher they just need an independent valuation done to prove any extra value