Andy_Mac
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Posts posted by Andy_Mac
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13 hours ago, darkchief1 said:
What are "good" figures? Might pull mine soon just as a health check
All zero’s in those two tables means the tune and health of things is bang on but usually isn't attainable for a stock tune so a little bit of variation isn't terrible.
The corrections in the top table can be controlled by the ecu as high as 15% so they're half way to being uncontrollable variations.
Most of your bottom ones are positive which isn't super normal but isn't bad like negatives are which indicate there has been knock in that range consistent enough for the ecu to make a semi permanent reduction to the timing.
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Through leak check is the way to go if it still has the factory MAF box and not a pod filter one. Those figures are reasonably bad so it could be the infamous split in the intake plenum just before the throttle body
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I passed with my old decatted DP and R400 but it was definitely above the legal limit, I go to a local mechanic though as I would have been willing to bet VTNZ would fail it for noise. Most straight piped Subies seem quieter than it.
As much as it isn't the ‘right’ thing to do i’d say your easiest option is to put a factory one back on for the recheck then go back to the R400 later on.-
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Is it in neutral?
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Passed the cert with flying colours but driving it for the first time after doing the hoops I’ve noticed one of the speakers now hums along with the engine speed so may need to piss around with the wiring to get that back to how it used to be
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13 hours ago, Bugeye01WRX said:
Wow that looks bloody amazing!! So that is all wired into the ECU that data you are reading there?
That is really damn cool to know thanks so much Ill definitely add this to the list of things to do when I get an STI.
Don't think Ill bother with the WRX hahaha
Yeah the STI setup just needs a single pair cable from the aftermarket ECU, the Legacy one connected to the obd2 port for the factory ECU with a tactrix cable and OTG cable for the tablet
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2 hours ago, pl0x said:
+1
I went for a gauge art can gauge (same as the link rebranded one they sell now), all sensors mentioned above bar egt. I barely look at it.
Generally leave it on oil temp, mainly to see when its up to temp. Rest is controlled/protected by ecu.
Where do you have yours sitting? I hated mine as it was way too dim and would reflect literally everything making it almost unreadable, the contrast and brightness of the Banks one is miles ahead
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I’ve just gone for a simple 52mm CAN multi gauge in mine. You don't need a whole row of gauges to display what you want once you go digital.
Set up is easy and cost was somewhere under a grand but you're relying on the sensors you've already installed for the ECU fail safes which is where the bigger cost is.
I don't look at it as much as I should but it can be setup with warnings for any of the available parameters and multiple pages of different layouts. It's mainly used for trouble shooting issues when I can't be bothered dragging the laptop out to plug into the car.
The other way to go is to get a spare android phone/tablet setup somewhere on the dash permantely connected to the OBD2 port with one of various apps running whatever parameters you want to see.
The one I used in my old legacy was super useful but was only supported for a few vehicle models. It could be setup to do logging and snapshots of all available parameters whenever a knock threshold has been past.
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Waste of time and money really. You're not going to notice mid pull it's off before any damage is done and it's not the kind of gauge you can set up to alarm as it's always changing depending on the AF figure the ECU is aiming for at the time.
Heaps of people feel the need to get them but would probably never notice if the readings were out
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Did you ever do it on the STI? It should be pretty similar.
I had issues with mine as the button resistances were too close together so it would often volume down when clicking up which I've never really resolved.
It might be easier to trace it back to behind the wheel and test it out there. Or even with a multimeter at the plug behind the HU
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Don't forget the original power was at the engine where this is the same figure but at the wheels so you get an extra 10-30% bump over the original depending on who you talk to about drivetrain loss.
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38 minutes ago, ginganinja said:
Yep I am using a 3 port solenoid and the first tune up on the car worked fine. I have since changed a couple of things on my set up so I am going back to dyno to have the tune tidied up at end of March. Before doing so I wanted to do some research into these actuators to see if i would potentially see some further gains by changing to one.
Would it be right to think a 12-14psi spring should mean the car should get to 12-14psi faster/easier as the wastegate is managing this before the 3 port solenoid takes over to manage boost control from there on after.
I may be completely wrong in my understanding of all this, but I figured if you don't ask you don't know.
There doesn't seem to be any info documented online of people using them, so maybe its not worth doing.
It shouldn't get on boost any faster than with a bigger spring if everything is working as it should. Running out of control at high boost is the usual reason to upgrade though the preload on an adjustable arm has been know to stop them creeping open also.
The solenoid is disrupting the pressure going to the actuator so you could technically have zero boost pressure making it's way to the actuator which will allow the fastest spool possible, but that isn't necessary as you only need to stay below the opening threshold of the stock spring to keep that optimal response.
You can pull your turbo and using an air compressor with a low pressure attachment test the gate to see at what psi of ‘boost’ it would start to creep open. It won't help the tuner much but will give you a idea of how it's doing it's thing.
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10 hours ago, ginganinja said:
No, You have misunderstood me.
I want to hear from someone who has changed from using a stock actuator to an IWG75 with higher base pressure and had an improvement in performance....or vice versa or not seen any change. As mentioned above some real world results.
If I am right a stock VF22 actuator is about 7-8psi. Hence when the car is tuned to approx 22psi the wastgate duty cycle is very high. Am I wrong to think that a higher base pressure would help boost build faster? Therefore resulting in a better power band and also mean lower wastgate duty cycle and better boost management?
At the end of the day, if you haven't tried you can't really say it will or won't do anything.
If no one on here has used one shall I be the guinea pig and see what results I find?
Are you running a 3-port solenoid? If you are 22psi is still well within the zone other get to. The properly working solenoid valve should be able to bypass enough to not creep open.
Higher pressure springs should make no difference to spool either unless the solenoid is maxed out and can't bypass enough to stay below the 8psi which extreme exhaust pressure can impact too but doubtful on your car.
The guy who bought my old 22 ended up putting an aftermarket one on for some reason so there must be an option out there that works, unless he just redrilled the comp housing for the different mounting.
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5 hours ago, Loren said:
That's different, factory tints look darker from the outside. Aftermarket tints look just as dark from inside the car.
As for exhaust noise... I live on a very busy street and hear extremely loud cars, motorbikes, trucks and even Utes ... all the time. No way they are legal, but still common.
Interesting. I can't say I've ever noticed they're lighter inside than equivalent aftermarket ones but it makes more sense why it's allowed.
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20 minutes ago, Timmah said:
Nearing two years later, same car, no more lip:
Did a kerb eat it??
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15 minutes ago, Technikhaus said:
I find these rules funny to be honest.
I used nite-shades on my FTO many years back, and never had an issue with WOFs etc, but another friend with the same car immediately failed his WOF for it.
And also, if it's factory, it's okay 🤷♂️.My new car has them as a factory option (only photo I have that shows them, but they're the factory-option tinted taillights.
Same way manufacturers can have insanely dark window tints which are deemed legal as they apparently know best, but anyone else can barely go half as dark
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10 hours ago, Bugeye01WRX said:
I see a lot of people like the blobeye tailights but I am not a fan. The little circles annoy me I like the cleaner look of the V7 and the Hawkeye ones look terrible being predominately white.
I'm not a huge fan of that lower circle either but the general colour design with clearer lenses looks less early 90’s style.
Things could be worse though, you could have these trainwreck aftermarket ones
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GFB Mach 2 is a good way to go for a full recirc valve
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Just do a light coat. You get almost all of the light output while looking a bit nicer and won't get pinged by anybody but will technically still be not above board.
Grabbing a set of v8/9 ones is another option as they like ok a lot less dated than the v7’s. You’d just need to cut the bumper a bit for the round section at the bottom
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Just buy a cheapo one from aliexpress and retap it for the NZ plate hole locations
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6 hours ago, Serchn said:
Alldone, I’m guessing theres a special place in hell for the guy that locates the clamp from the blowoff valve to the inlet😉.
Dunno why they did it that way aye, I've succeeded with ultra long needle nose pliers getting the clamp loose but it's always a bit of a battle unless you change to a normal hose clamp you can screw tight with a socket extension.
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7 minutes ago, Technikhaus said:
Link branded MAP sensor in the engine bay, and Link CAN-Lambda sensors. If I just cover them they'd not know. haha
Plus a big aftermarket dash sitting right in their face as they hop in 😂 -
Interesting issue. They were available from factory for some 3rd gen Legacy’s also so finding proof of that may be enough to convince them to let you pass.
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On 28/12/2021 at 12:35 PM, jbmurc3.0 said:
What about factory 3.0 BP 4pot brembos ? A good upgrade on standard 3.0 316mm ??
A factory 3.0 BP won't have Brembo’s, it should come with the 2pot slider calipers and 316mm rotors that have been talked about above
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EZ30 Fuel To Use (Low IAM?)
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
I think something went wrong with a windows driver that destroyed compatibility with the standalone LV program a few years ago as it seems to no longer work for almost everyone.
The one in the top menu’s of romraider logger is the next best way