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D1Style

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Posts posted by D1Style

  1.  KingCole said:
    Blouch units are bolt-on on JDM STIs AFAIK and there is a guy in Australia running a 1.5XTR on his STI V8 or V9. Very fast spooling turbos but just kind of pricy. You have a big budget though and I think you can max the blouch unit on pump with a budget of 7k-7.5k max (no cams) with the mods you mentioned.

    From what i remember reading when i was shopping for a turbo, the 1.5XTR were originally made for the the guys in the UK with 2L engines so will be sweet for our JDM cars.

    Should be a straight bolt on.

    When Tony fitted my stock location GT3071R he said it fitted mint with no issues at all. The ATP range could be another option you could look at, especially the GTX units with your budget.

  2.  Dairusire said:
    Hiya, So can anyone do me a solid by chance? I'm going racing at flat nats, and am in need of some 17x7.5's (preferable) to stick some Semi-slicks onto for racing over the weekend (11th until 14th). In return I shall give you a box of beer for the inconvenience. If there was any tires on them, they'll be refitted / balanced and back to you.

    I've got my old set of V7 Sti rims in the garage.

    They still have tires on them.

    You're welcome to grab those.

  3.  evowrx said:
    Bkr7eix are cheap off partsouq. I ran them in old engine but found coppers fouled a lot less often when tuning etc. Best thing with coppers is gives an idea of how each cylinder is burning.

    Damn...i never thought about getting them off Partsouq, pretty well priced aye. I've always just got them off Ebay.

    With the IX i haven't had any problems so far ( touch wood ) I used them in my old 2JZGTE Aristo back in the day and that was sweet as well but agree with you on the coppers. I'm just lazy and cant be arsed changing them as often...LOL!!

  4.  Tony said:
    Nah man, its the black sedan - I'm sure you would have seen it? the cage had just been finished when you were here last. It's gonna be pretty amazing when done, new turbo just arrived the other week (EFR 8374), and the boys are currently doing the fab work to fit it etc.

    Oh yeah, that's right , the caged out black one.

    Was thinking of another one but same shape.

    Damn....nice turbo too!! Should go nicely with that unit on it!!

  5. Hi guys

    Just thought i would share this with you.

    Not sure if you are familiar with it or not but its called JP-carparts.com and its a website to help you find the oem part numbers for your car.

    I've used it several times and its pretty easy to navigate.

    Just choose your model then model code. For example for my V7 Ra i would choose : Impreza GD.GG then GDB-4DH.

    It will then list all parts available for your car. I've also found that some parts not available or does not exist in the Partsouq system will be available on here.

    You can either purchase direct from their site or find the part number then buy it from Partsouq. I've found in some cases it will be slightly cheaper on Partsouq.

    http://www.jp-carparts.com/subaru/carlist.php?maker=subaru

    Hope this helps some of you out.

    Cheers

    Sakon

    • Thanks 1
  6.  evowrx']Just throw it away.

    Yeah i was actually thinking about that as the Spec C's don't have them do they??

    [quote name='rex7 said:

    you can grind a bit metal off that brace, it wont hurt anything.

    I might do this if i don't end up taking it off and leaving it off.

  7.  marc']2mm? the engine will probably rock more then that under load.. Any signs of it touching on the headers aka rub/scuff marks etc

    Hmmm thats what i thought too. Its sitting pretty damn close to it.

    Would a set of say, Group N engine, trans mounts and pitch stop help with the movement?? I've also been reading where some guys who have had similar issues have cut a semi circle piece off the brace where it touches....

    I had a quick look this morning before work and it looked like it had been touching. Just a small mark. Will jack the car up properly tonight and have a good look.

    [quote name='evowrx said:

    Is that the nasty horseshoe deadweight hanging off the front subframe?

    You mean this thing.....if so yep!

    url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=yjwckqdk.krj.jpg]yjwckqdk.krj.jpg[/url]

  8. So i took the car for a quick drive just now to check out a strange sound the car is making.

    Its making a knocking sound and i can feel it under my feet each time it makes the noise.

    This has happened after my header install. I remember feeling and hearing it driving home after fitting them. Could it be a coincidence?

    Its not all the time, just now and then.

    I had a quick look and i cant see anything touching but it definitely feels like something is. The headers seem to be really close to the subframe, maybe only 2mm gap between it.

    Cant figure out what it could be or where to look?

    Is it possible that my swaybar links are buggered? Or exhaust hanger loose after fitting new exhaust??

    Any ideas?

    I'll jack the car up and will have a proper look on the weekend

  9.  sl8r said:
    I run a modified Macbilt sump... i.e. mine has been substantially modified over their off the shelf unit. one thing to be mindful of is headers and them fouling on the sump if you go enlarged which is highly recommended. Sumps are one of those do not skimp areas as you will pay big if you get a lesser one. Oh and remember to put your windage tray back in too lol

    How much roughly are the Macbilt ones??

    Baffled sump is the next mod on my list.

    Have also been eyeing up the Killer B setup with oil pickup but quite pricey once you factor in exchange rate, freight then duty.

  10.  lachlan said:
    15s are ok for jeff the purple wiggle

    11800531_10153482026698718_6923718549448

    bye bye jeff . fkn stoaked for $350 with good tires . also this is a fkn nice car for 4k . its only the 160 hp one with half v tec but fk its nice

    11229685_10153482026633718_7429560096582

    11831717_10153482026763718_4703370887252

    Yeah man they are awesome wagons aye!

    I bought one a few years back before i got my RA. Mine was the K24 200hp version. Was pretty good on gas , huge boot and bonus being chain driven too. The only thing i noticed was that once it hit over 100,000kms it started to chew the oil a bit more. Apparently it's a common issue according to my Honda mad mate.

    Gave it to the Mrs to use for a couple of years and we just recently sold it.

    Here's a couple of old pics of it after i lowered it and fitted new rims.

    jiajy3g1.rme.jpg

    uqd2wnpx.4cs.jpg

  11.  boon said:
    The guy who "knows his stuff" doesn't "know his stuff" if he recommended an aftermarket boost controller, the factory ECU plus a 3-port boost solenoid is capable of rock-solid boost control.

    The mobile guys, stuff paying $900 for something that isn't a dyno tune, that's very close to dyno tune money. EDIT: They are basically the first guy, but with a sign-written van.

    The dyno tune is a dyno tune and will give you the best result, the best reliability, the best fuel economy, the best power, and the best car.

    +1 Get a dyno tune

    I was looking in to the mobile guy but I wasn't confident in using him once i started an email conversation back and forth.

    For only a couple hundred more go for the dyno tune.

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