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A_J_T

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Posts posted by A_J_T

  1. Bit of an update on this. Removed the Plasti Dip the other weekend, just over a year of it on there and it came off ok. If you plan on keeping it on that long id recommend applying more coats, the thinker it is the easier it comes off. Seems to degrade over time and does rip when removing and makes it hard getting it all off clean. One wheel that I patched up had a couple more coats than the others and it all peeled off just fine. The others didn’t come off clean and I ended up soaking it in crc which melts it and just water blasted the remainder off. Also when peeling it off the plastic centre caps it peeled the paint off them. Looks like when I applied it the Plasti Dip became one with the paint.

  2. Sorry, So does the pump prime when you turn the key on? If so then it’s not any of this and im just wasting your time haha.

    If you get your head far enough down in the foot well and look behind where the fuse board would be and up you should see a green and brown relay, green one is fuel pump i believe and that’s the one you checked yea?

    Immobilizer could have something to do with it if it has fuel pump cut but i really have no idea sorry mate

  3.  McMasterJamie said:
    Thanks! havent had them long , its on sti springs too. Okay will get v7 intake soon, where did you get all your blue silicon hoses from?. You make that sound easy haha i should be okay though.

    Silicone radiator hose kit was from SUBARU-Impreza-WRX-GDA-GGA-STi-GDB-GGB-EJ20-00-07-SILICONE-RADIATOR-HOSE-BLUE, undermani intake was from http://www.pro-wholesale.co.nz/ and verious joiners were just from Redline, Altech etc.

     
    Just bought the sti long block and ecu.. exciting biggrin.png

    This means commitment haha, start a garage thread im keen to see the journey and end result.

     
    What about Xforce headers and down pipes, any good? or should i just get factory v7 sti headers? undecided..

    No real world experience so yea no idea sorry, im going with stock V7 headers for a start purely for sound, i have a set of equal length 250T headers that ill be swapping on and off to make some comparisons and ill keep the ones i like best.

  4. Regardless of what Engine+ECU combination you go for you will need a tune to get 290-300whp so i wouldn’t exclude that from your V7 sti costs.

    Someone else on here might have more info on the AVCS guff but yip as far as I know if you run a V7 STI ECU you will just need to wire in the AVCS with the correct loom, i believe the loom needs appropriate shielding etc.

    Your intake manifold shouldn't need anything changed? Just throw a V7 undermani silicone intake in there and your good to go.

    Rev-D intake manifold - V7 Undermani intake

  5. Welcome along. The journey you are about to embark on is one I am almost done with :cool: "i dont think it will ever actually be done but eh lol"

    What power do you want at the end of the day? Your EJ208 only has 125,00ish km on it so providing its been maintained and has not suffered from crazy detonation it’s probably a good stable platform to build a 200wkw daily on. That being said at the end of the day if the v7 sti long block is in the budget then hell that’s the way to go for sure.

    When was your car imported?

    In regards to the rev-D ECU and getting it tuned im waiting for a reply from Dave at DTech in Tauranga. He is trying to get his hands on a Rev-D map to see if he can go through and turn off all the TT related goodness and clear CELs etc. if he gives the green light on that then I can’t see why the Rev-D ECU isn’t the way to go. You literally need to change nothing in regards to ECU pin-outs “except an optional boost control solenoid” so it does make the conversion very easy in that regard.

    If you haven’t already have a quick read through this, Rosssub on here is very helpful: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?44725-ECU-questions-and-thoughts-Rev-D-TT-to-ST-conversion

    Also re; uploading pics: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?44352-Uploading-and-Posting-Images-via-iForce

  6. Kind of bringing this one back from the dead but figured its the best place to post without having to re-explain my situation ^ .. soooo to prevent the Differential pressure sensor and ECU having a fritter out on me and throwing a CEL would I pop hose 21 onto intake manifold pressure and hose 22 into turbo outlet pressure "effectively the same pressure just maybe a delay between the two idk?!":confused:

  7. Welcome, head on over to the intro thread and tell us a little about the car and your plans for it if you have any and throw some pics up.

    In regards to the above, what year is the car and define boost hesitation.. hesitation between gears or something else etc?

    Assume its randomly staling when you come to a stop light or something similar?

    Any aftermarketness on the car BOV, Pod filter etc?

    Also have a read through this thread: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?45749-Boost-and-Hesitation-Problem-2000-BE5B-RSK

  8.  Zach said:
    http://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/exhaustbackpressure.html

    Number 2 is a interesting read on it.

    I really dont know much about all the technical side of these things but this does seem to be referring to an NA application not turbo?

    Im about to go full turbo back 3in and also dislike neutral throttle/cruise drone so this could be interesting. That being said I dont believe loudness and drone is directly related to the size or exhaust you go for. It comes down to the design of the system really… there are also plenty of ideas and facts on how to cut out certain frequencies to help eliminate low rpm drones.

    Unsure if it works but this is an interesting idea: http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaust/22791-fancy-tech-how-get-rid-exhaust-drone-works-great.html

    Also equal and unequal length headers plays a part as drone is from the way frequencies bounce about so im keen to play around with different headers to get the sound and hopefully lack of drone i want at the end of the day but thats a whole other can of worms

  9. I got mine from Exedy NZ Ltd - 151 Wairau Rd. Unsure what they can do for you but could be worth a call.

     scoob said:
    What is it like to drive? What's the difference etc?

    Really depends on the individual and what you want at the end of the day... what’s the reason your looking at Lightweight in the first place, what’s the car used for, do you commute every day in stop go traffic?

    Personally i really liked what it did for my car, just brought it so much more alive imo along with a noticeable change in power delivery. In stop go traffic it does take the joy away rather quick however… although i still don’t mind but yea i can understand why one would hate it… if I had to commute everyday in stop go traffic I wouldn’t recommend it tbh.. also you will find yourself riding the clutch a little more so expect to add some wear to your clutch but once again that really depends on the individual

  10. Probably want to go for the water pump with cast impeller 21111AA026

    impp_1103_12_o%2Bsubaru_ej_series%2Bwate

    The water pump front, right is a cast impeller that flows more water apparently, whereas the rear, left stamped impeller which is the one in your list (part 21111AA065) allows for water to bypass the blades and does not flow as much water.

    That is of course if you order genuine. no idea what aftermarket will provide.

  11.  B4 I was 250T said:
    Hey guy, I got an Adrenalin R off trade me. Set me back $280 odd but is an awesome muffler. 3 in inlet and 6in outlet. I believe they do a 4in out as well. Timmah got one too. Great looking muffler, NZ company. Highly recommend :)

    Hey mate have you got any pics of fitment? im thinking of grabbing on of these but with a longer tip. kinda sceptical on the 6in outlet so would be sweet to see it fitted. i think the Genome i had was near 6in out and it looked fine. Also whats the sound like? i realize sound is not all up to the muffler but still would be sweet to hear some feedback on quality of sound/drone and build etc .

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