A_J_T

The green test mode / flash connector will be on the left side footwell 'JDM Passenger footwell.' When connected and you turn the ignition on, you will hear the fans and solenoid cycling. This is how you know you have the correct plugs connected. Also, be mindful of your battery voltage. It may close the interface if the voltage is below 12v. Ensure that lights, etc., are off, and sometimes, it pays to connect a battery charger."

Yea@Marky would be the go to in your area, if you cant get hold of him let me know and i can help out remotely. iirc i provided you with the map you mentioned. My Tactrix is being borrowed again but as mentioned if you cant get someone local let me know and I can send it your way when i get it back and help out.

What ECU are you using? The Rev-A Engine will have a differnt crank trigger pattern so you might have to swap that also. Here are the diffrences in old generation vs newer MY01 crank and cam triggers - in your scenario if you have somehow installed a Rev-D Twin Turbo ECU then you will likely only need to change the crank trigger, cams will be the same between Rev-A and D IIRC

Got a photo of your engine bay? The odd miss on idle is not uncommon on these. The stumble is the interesting thing It could be detecting knock on tip in. can you log knock and see if you got any feedback?

Yea no harm in trying, it only takes two seconds to unplug it and fire it up. Its possible that there could be a problem with the wiring/grounding to said sensors too, just swapping sensors out sometimes neglects the wires that go to the sensors. The issue you have described really does sound like an intake leak even though you have ruled that out.. Do you have an aftermarket blow-off valve at all?

Unplug the MAF entirely and start it Maffless. Unsure about earlier revisions but the Rev-D runs openloop when its unplugged. Good way to troublshoot. If it idles fine wihtout the maf then thats possibly your probelem. Edit: just read above that you have already replaced the MAF with no difference.

This rom is the closest I've ever gotten to having a editible TT rom http://www.romraider.com/forum/download/file.php?id=13729 2002/03 JDM Subaru Legacy 2.0TT MT A4SHC00H Also as a disclaimer, i was re-readinig this thread and please dont do like i did above "editing defs and re-defining them" unless you really know what you are doiing haha.

Do a single turbo conversion ? Depending on the milage, you probably want to strip the short block down and do piston rings, a bearing set and get the block decked. Its easy to get a little out of hand with rebuild costs on these.. defintely look into replacment longblocks the EJ206/EJ208 is a direct drop in and the EJ205/EJ207/EJ20Y/X will all work with faily simple mods and a quick ECU reflash. Consider the tools also, if you do go for a full rebuild you will need a good torque wrench and some other specific tools that can add up $$. ignore this if you're not a pleb like me and already have a workshop full of fancy tools Also, do a single turbo conversion.

ahh the strougles of two years ago. This is a thing of the past, cheers anyway though.

Yea I'm very much a 16bit ECU man so I can't really confidently comment on the 32bit side of things. This is a good source of truth though https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=37 looks like there are a number of 32bit speed density ROMs out there. If you go with the MAF just make sure you have a good bend 90-degree preferably but just something and basically just get the MAF as far away from the turbo as possible. If I ran a MAF on a twisted setup "which I wouldn't" I would run the intake pipe down into the wheel arch and locate the MAF down in there somewhere. Remembering that you ideally want the MAF 300ish mm away from your pod filter for the same reason as keeping it away from the turbo. It needs clean unturbulent flow to work nicely at low flow / idle. And as mentioned, going to a 3inch MAF housing will require a MAF rescale which is easy enough on the stock ECU

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/subaru/auction-2202546675.htm?rsqid=32c219ce997a4b6e8ed75d90abaf84a9-003

Biggest crime is that he forgot how to drive and just parked it up against the wall

The software looks nice. The base maps they have loaded in are super informative and it looks like they have the twin turbo system and definitions all figured out. Any competent tuner could work with this.

Welcome to the forum. We are happy for you to post any questions in here mate, that way others that have tackled this process can add their knowledge too. Cheers,

What revision BH is it mate? This may help V5/6 WRX/STI ECU Plugs/Pinouts: https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=CFA30F34A9604D4A&resid=CFA30F34A9604D4A%21162&app=WordPdf&wdo=1 V5/6 WRX/STI Engine wiring Diagrams: https://onedrive.live.com/?cid=cfa30f34a9604d4a&id=CFA30F34A9604D4A%21161#cid=CFA30F34A9604D4A&id=CFA30F34A9604D4A%21164 V5/6 WRX/STI (bottom section of PDF, covers V5/6 WRX in detail) http://reuben.xpjets.com/random/BH-Conversion/Possumlink-MY99Manual.pdf BH5: http://reuben.xpjets.com/random/BH-Conversion/BH-WiringDiagram-JDM.pdf Other ECU\'s covered here: http://www.brdevelopments.com/archive.html