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A_J_T

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Posts posted by A_J_T

  1. Do you have a boost gauge and when the power surges does the boost also surge/flutter slightly?

    Sometimes when cruising in mine id hit a slight incline keeping the same throttle position load would come on slightly and boost would build a little and drop and so on, it would feel somewhat like you have described. just the wastgate having a little trouble figuring out what to do with itself. if i applied a little more throttle it would sort itself out but the TT wastgate always seemed a little touchy on primary when cruising. Ross is probably right but that's just my two cents :cool:

  2. Yea so im real keen on the ease of fitment side of things. ill look into those copper gaskets that sounds like an idea. only have access to Mig so that will have to do.

    Tig would be nice, stuff like this looks so damn good.

    v-band-step-4.jpg

  3. Had an idea of making up a 3 inch exhaust using V Bands for joining downpipe to mid pipe and mid to muffler.

    Bad idea?

    Anyone have some success stories about going at a V band with a Mig, assuming warping is the biggest worry?

    Are V Bands up to that kind of job? Most of the exhaust weight should be on the hangers but I really have no idea hence im here.

  4.  lunacy said:

    Interestingly only seem to be seeing around 7 psi of boost on the gauge. Should I be seeing more than this?

    Should be at around 14psi as Rosssub said. Running 7psi will increase the Lag in VOD/Changeover considerably. find that boost issue and you should be away laughing.

  5. I have one on atm, I think it sounds pretty nice from the inside of the car ‘no idea really what it sounds like outside’ and does not drone while cruising unlike some other horrid muffler I had on for a couple weeks. I feel like they can start sounding real rude on different applications other than stock. Egbp would be an interesting fact to know also, kinda felt like replacing mine soon on the basis that it’s like a 2.2ID? “Are there larger Genomes?” and I get the feeling they are not that good for flow but really I have no idea.

  6.  Divine said:

    Just read entire thread, wow. So 0.8mm restrictor pill in hose #1 and that's it, regardless if you have a BE5 A/B/C/D? My Rev. D is stock standard except a Fujisubo Super R exhaust, would I see any difference?

    Rev-D already has this issue sorted via the ECU. Out of interest I did try this a while ago on my Rev-D and iirc it just slightly confuses things and delays the VOD/Change over a little. If you have a spare pill no harm in trying it for yourself though.

  7. Looks like you have already made your mind up to got to S/T which is probably the best idea. But just in case you want to stick with the TT i will have VF33 VF32 and any other related parts all in not bad nick that ill no longer be needing if you wanted to give that a go.

    Also, pretty sure this should sort out the Oil/Water return lines for S/T.

    http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/turbos/auction-819840968.htm

  8. Been trying to find out what my block is but can’t for the life of me locate this S20C/R20 code without having to pull heaps of stuff off. What’s the best place to get a cheeky peak? i managed to locate the EJ20 stamp and next to it was another 713 stamp that is different from the above EJ208 codes. Which does not surprise me as it’s a Rev-D. Basically what I’m trying to find out is if it is stamped S20C as the v7 EJ207 is. Possibility it’s a semi-closed deck in the Rev-D?

  9.  Marky']So how does the restrictor pill work different?

    hmmm all very interesting hellish stuff that im looking forward to get rid of.

    Correct me if im wrong Ross. but from what i understand Vacuum holds it closed, when you start to hit VOD/change over the vacuum is released and the spring opens the IACV. Air has to get into the solenoid "IACV" somehow and the only way is via the vacuum hose. Having the restrictor pill simply restricts the air getting into the solenoid thus slowing down the rate it opens.

    [quote name='Rosssub said:

    I have a spare B4 TMIC and IACV here, I\'ve been bench testing the opening speed. With a Vac hose connected to the IACV Actuator, applying Vac to close it. Then releasing Vac and timing how fast it opens. Then adding Restrictor Pills to the Vac Hose, to slow it down/restrict it.

    IACV opening times:

    OEM open 4mm hose - 0.15 seconds

    2.0mm Restrictor Pill - 0.35 seconds

    0.8mm Restrictor Pill - 0.85 seconds

    I think extending the vacuum hose, using larger diameter hose or adding a collector tank would cause more of a VOD delay than anything else. This would cause the VOD/change over to occur slightly higher in the rpm where there might ? be more boost to handle spooling the secondary faster? Creating a similar but yet totally different result than the restrictor pill?

  10.  Rosssub said:
    Very nice. :) So all you'll need to do is:

    - Intake pipe

    - Y-pipe (y-pipe gaskets p/n 21896AA010)

    - Turbo

    - Exhaust manifold

    - Up-pipe/down-pipe (single turbo GB cross member for OEM DP)

    - New coolant feed hose from header tank to turbo

    - Block primary turbo oil feed and return in left head

    - Block primary coolant return in left head

    - Tune

    All gasket part numbers for partsouq will be in this thread by Clint: http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?42058-Single-scroll-gasket-genuine-part-numbers Could also fit some phenolic intake mani spacers and bypass the TB coolant while the manifold is off.

    Could swap the primary duty solenoid and exhaust control valve duty solenoid pins at the ECU, to save fluffing around with relocating or running long vac hoses into the passengers guard for boost control?

    B137/24 & B137/11, rev d ECU pinout:

    http://www.brdevelopments.com/docs/MY02%20B4%20ECU%20Pin%20outs.pdf

    Should find the front O2 sensor wires are long enough to relocate it into the DP too, if that's what Alistair does?

    Swapping the primary duty solenoid and exhaust control valve solenoid pins at the ECU is a good idea, i will look into this :)

    Thanks for all the info mate ^

  11.  evowrx']Pity you cant delete the cel at ecu. Sounds like an easy option tho. Trying to think if i have anything that would help with conversion in my garage. Getting thin on spares now.

    Yea, it is an easy option for sure. will mean i can get the conversion done and then look at upgrading the ECU in the future sometime.

    [quote name='94 Leone said:

    *If you feel that wiring is the devil and it is the devils work

    Yes.

  12. Looks like this is the way to go.

     
    Yes it is possible to tune the ECU on your car to run single turbo if you leave the BBOD and all the TT associated sensors in place. The turbos and associated exhaust control valves and air control valves can be removed but the pressure sensors and all the solenoids etc in the BBOD need to stay in place to prevent CELs. You can run the single turbo from the primary turbo solenoid circuit and control it via the ECU

    Cheers

    Alistair

    Raijin Performance Ltd

    Custom Subaru Remapping

    M: +64 (0)21 306 003

    Email: [email protected]

    www.raijinperformance.co.nz

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