Rosssub
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Posts posted by Rosssub
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I installed the new Zerosports sequential controller today, The car is not getting stuck in VOD anymore. Goes from single to twin and twin back to single almost instantly. ;D
But, it\'s still slow to reach full boost in twin mode. Twin turbo boost does rise twice as quick as it was but still takes about 5 seconds to reach full boost.
Edit: The more I drive it the better it\'s getting, secondary boost is now pretty much as responsive as primary boost. VOD change over from single to twin takes around 1 second. Which suggests my original problem was with the ECU?
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Yip it\'s come close a few times now. But all solenoids are opening/closing and holding pressure.
-Primary boost is perfect
-Secondary removed and inspected/perfect
-Duty solenoid cleaned twice and tested perfect
-BBOD cleaned twice, all solenoids tested perfect
-Vacuum/boost lines cleaned/inspected and tested perfect
-Restrictor pills clean clear and perfect
-ECV inspected and perfect
-IACV inspected and perfect
-Waste gate tested opens/closes perfect
-Down pipe inspected and perfect
-Inlet pipe inspected and perfect
-Boost leaks tested and perfect
-Primary bypass valve (bov) tested and perfect
-Secondary relief valve tested and perfect
-ECU reset 3 times at weekly intervals
-Never had a CEL
But still a massive VOD and secondary boost very slow to rise ???
What\'s the best way to test for exhaust leaks pre turbo?
Might just put the Zerosports controller in and cross my fingers...
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Yeah twice now lol.
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It\'s all back together, inlet is clear and clean. All banjo bolts, hoses cleared and cleaned. I guess next thing to try is replace the BBOD? I have a new Zerosports sequential controller to fit but I want everything working right before I put it in.
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The black mark on the heat sheild is burnt carbon/oil, its dry, hard and scratched off. The compressor nut is tight. The ECV is tight on it\'s spindle and hasn\'t moved.
Tomorrow I will check the inlet for restrictions and check all banjo bolts and hoses.
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Ok will do. Is there anything else I can check/test while it\'s apart? I\'m thinking I\'ll just put the original back in, it has no shaft play at all in either direction. The replacement has about 0.5mm play front to back.
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Got my secondary off, can\'t find anything wrong with it. ECV is working fine with no visual cracks or problems. Original feels and looks better than the replacement
Original 201,000kms:
Replacement 90,000kms:
Original:
Replacement:
ECV open:
ECV closed:
Original front:
Original rear:
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Will do, thanks.
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Replacement has only just arrived this morning. Will remove original tomorrow avo.
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Yeah I know, shouldn\'t happen. My CT20 with about 2mm shaft play I can almost breath through the shaft/bearing assembly. My current/fitted VF27 (201,000kms)I can seal the inlet put a compressor to it and hear air hissing out into the downpipe. My replacement VF27 (90,000kms) I can just, only just get air through it.
My only semi plausible explanation is worn out front and rear oil seals and undersized worn bearings, or maybe lack of oil in the floating bearing assembly or cracked housing???
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My secondary is nackered and I can blow air through it from inlet to downpipe, can do the same with an old ct20 turbo I\'ve got, a blocked oil return bango filter/mesh could be causing oil to flow straight into the downpipe causing the smoking? See if there\'s oil in the downpipe and excessive oil in the turbo to TMIC pipe?
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If I went through 2 turbo\'s in a week I\'d be checking that the turbo oil & cooling feed/return pipes are clear.
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Maybe it\'s like a modem reset and needs to be held in for 5 seconds +???
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Which ecu pin have you got the brown wires connected to? ECU pin 10 in third colomn?
Also where you cut ecu loom wire from pin 10, did you connect the brown/white wire to ecu side of cut and the solid brown wire to the loom side of cut?
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Ah one of the diagrams is completely backwards and needs to be reversed.
The ZSC diagram is looking at the loom plug face
The ECU pinout diagram is looking at the ecu pin face not at the ecu loom plugs face.
So you need to mirror image the ecu diagram for it to all work.
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No, pin 12 in second colomn. ecu pin 12 is lead/read memory
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Those diagrams dont match up at all. ZSC wire 6 (grey wires) are going to ecu pin 7 which is \'RxD\', ZSC wires 7 (blue wires) are going to ecu pin 14 which is \'Brake switch\', ZSC wires 8 (brown wires) are going to ecu pin 13 which is \'Static test mode\', ZSC wire 9 (yellow wires) are going to ecu pin 12 which is \'Lead/read memory connector\'.
So you must have the wrong ECU pinout diagram.
The way you have it wired ZSC wires 7 (blue) that want to control your Intake Air control valve are hooked up to your brake lights...
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Can only be a wiring fault then, Do you have the right ECU pinout guide? Double check which pin is for the ECV negative pressure solenoid?
Going off My BH5 info, about to do install my self.
Wire numbers from Z/S controller:
Wire 6 (grey wires) = Differential pressure sensor
Wire 7 (blue wires) = Intake valve solenoid
Wire 8 (brown wires)= ECV negative pressure solenoid
Wire 9 (yellow wires)= ECV positive pressure solenoid
You must have womething wrong or backwards where these wires are.
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Was everything working fine before the controller install?
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Have you got the dip switches set correctly?
http://download.robson-brown.co.uk/uklegacy/zerosport/01switch.jpg
http://download.robson-brown.co.uk/uklegacy/zerosport/index.html
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Replacement VF27 in the post, hoping it arrives tomorrow for fitting this weekend. Will update when I get it on.
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Will front half shafts cv\'s/axles from a 2000 B4 legacy be a straight fit into my 2000 BH5 GTB? Thanks
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If you want to disguard the factory boost solenoid without throwing a cel could you just plug the return to inlet/vent hose with a ballbearing, then solenoid can open and close all it wants but it wont bleed any pressure out.
Then \'T\' your EBC or bleed valve hose in pre factory solenoid.
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Make sure you get the order right too. FR,RL,FL,RR. And also tighten the bleeder nut before mate lifts off the pedal as tiny air bubbles can be sucked back in through the threads causing a spongy caliper on that one wheel.
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HID bulbs
in Legacy & Outback
Posted
All the info you need should be stamped on the base of the bulb.