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Gripless last won the day on June 6

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  1. If you are careful you can just pull the top of the vent panel. Top of the Sti logo outwards and get 30mm or so gap. They just grab the rubber and pull away from vent. Only one side of the rubber is held on by tiny 4mm washers on plastic pins. if you get brave unscrew the side skirt from front arch and the the bottom of the panel has a small clip at the bottom. you can then cut or drill some more holes to get better flow. There is 40mm before you hit the actual car frame.
  2. They aren’t fake. they have rubber flaps behind the mesh to block them. you rip it out and they work. you can cut more hole in fender to drag more air through.
  3. When you take the rubber out of the side fender grills the hot air gets sucked out of the top of the engine bay through those gaps.
  4. Lol I have an alloy one and it’s still in box after many years. pretty sure it’s still new in there.
  5. 4x2 wood in front of ramps works too.
  6. I have an unused process west top mount kit spare. It’s in the box but wrapped in plastic and has cardboard over the fins. Was going to be carryon for the flight back from Australia, but then had upgrade from work and kept the box as more luggage allowance.
  7. Oh what pads do you use? I had some semi ceramic one and they added around a hundred degrees to the temp. Stopped so well but got super hot. I have DBA rotors now, but not on the car I did all the testing in. The aftermarket discs do have a bit more surface area in the vents to cool better.
  8. First get the temperature colour changing paint on the rotors to see how hot they actually get. https://apracing.com/race-car/brake-pads/measuring-brake-temperature someone at the track usually knows someone with a kit, and you don’t use much. That sounds like a drag and dust collector if you don’t need it. I had ducts on one car but the brakes got over 610c into them on the track. Blocked them for road use. Unless you are braking from 140kph or higher constantly then brakes cool pretty well on their own. if not get better discs. actually if your stock fluid isn
  9. You have to ask them, I haven’t used them in a while. if you get the car from a dealer they sort it.
  10. yeah they cover some mods, the ones that aren't covered. like exhausts, wheels, suspension are wear items so they allow them in a lot of cases. I get one for minimum 6 months and thrash the car, if it survives then not much lost. if it dies you save s*** loads. Also its a good way to prevent wasting money on more mods. the waiting until it expires gives you time to save and plan. I've had two major claims both in the thousands covered. So I've done well from them. My STi has a new gearbox, my Evo had the rear active diff replaced under warranty.
  11. That sounds pretty good, but seems like Steve March would do similar and built form an old turbo would be cheaper since you already have the core.
  12. Classic cover and they have good cover for modifications. Had some delays with their claims subcontractors but job got gone. I’d still be going classic cover again.
  13. Yes 48 or 49 can never remember which ever is the twin scroll. it has too much play or has over boosted. Only good for parts. previous owner had external wastegate and it was abused.
  14. I have a spare v11 turbo for parts if that helps build a hybrid. the exhaust side is twinscroll but some insides maybe good.
  15. But dont you want a 300kw rated turbo so you aren’t pushing it and keeping it running in a nice efficient zone so it doesn’t heat up.
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