Gripless

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Gripless last won the day on May 27

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About Gripless

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  1. lol, so my car is now on the NZ list with a status of no parts available. Plus says letter sent, but that's a load of crap unless the mail got lost.
  2. If you have a hood scoop like Subaru you should have a tray as far back as the scoop to create a vacuum to draw more air through intercooler and radiator.
  3. @Dairusire Was $1150 in the morning I think.
  4. I think it’s a slippery slope. Few to many deal posts and shops join just to post crap. but even if it wasn’t from James I’d have posted this. crazy Something like $400 off the first link price. plus pretty sure I have been in hospital twice without one so even at full price very much a must buy.
  5. Not a subaru not even a real car but still killed a few hours
  6. the idea is to have them lead to a defuser out the back, defuser needs smooth airflow to work correctly. Car needs to be low to make them work. better off getting a bigger lower front lip. not the stick on foam s*** though. Or on rally cars stop the stones eating everything.
  7. Ok so I don't work for these guys but they did the group buy and well the email I just got has great prices. I have a HANS device already which the the traditional U shaped that goes under harnesses but these ones are what I wish I purchased. If you have harness or race then these are literally life savers and about the best bit of safety kit you can own. Even in a mild wall tap or off road in rally they help so much. Most classes now require them but if you ca afford it then buy one anyway. prices on the site aren't the sale one and you need to figure out your size. https://jmms.co.nz/collections/driver-equipment/products/simpson-hybrid-sport-head-neck-restraint Large - huge price drop from the one listed or cheap option https://jmms.co.nz/collections/driver-equipment/products/schroth-shr-evo-fhr-device medium - reasonable price drop
  8. The diameter of the magnets will make it hard for anyone to answer, even if the depth is ok they may foul on something. You can't even angle them up to gain clearance since they are almost have a square side profile. Subarus and many newer car have 2-3cm spacers from factory so can be miles of room back there. Look at the factory grills and see how far they sit off the cone face to get an idea of how close you can put them to the door card. Even so with a little cutting of the door card on the back most things can be made to fit. They tend to have raised circles to seal to the factory foam to seal the door skin around the speaker. Worst case you cut the factory door grill out to the cone diameter and screw he infinity grills to the outside of the door skin. Likely you have to have the tweeters mounted sticking out anyway. Remember to get/make new stiffer foam rings to seal to the door skin or the bass will leak into the door not cabin. X-overs you can chuck under the dash if you can't find room in door, but I think you'll find same in the doors. You can run fat new cable to the bass and thinner to the tweeter as it makes getting things through the rubber tube to the door easier. Seems a waste if you aren't running new cable so easy change to keep them inside the car, plus way easier to adjust them in cabin than ripping off door cards over and over to test. https://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx helps a lot for most audio things, they did write ups and teardown on heaps of cars. Don't worry about the AC, sub woofer options for door speakers it more for headunit swaps etc.
  9. Why TVG delete gains are tiny. can leave them forced open and just pull the pump if you want an easier fix. Sub tech is penrose possum Bourne sells the little plates to blank them. The under turbo one you can do at solenoid end Leaving the steel pipe to make it way easier. either can delete the codes even before the pump is pulled out. it’s the cutting the solenoid to keep the pressure sensor that’s the careful bit. You can leave it whole if needed it just won’t be tidy.
  10. I have the titanium version it’s loud as f***. I wound not recommend it at all. Plus the stuffing seems to not like the lift off pops and it got a lot louder. I think it’s burnt out a bit. Cold start will set off car alarms. decat makes a big noise difference so do that first before you pick the rear mufflers. even so the biggest noise I have once warmed up is still the pitch stop. Exhaust is loud but the pitch stop drones so much at mid rpm. yes I wear noise cancelling headphones on long trips. which are fancy airplane ones so you can hear just not constant droning. I'm likely getting custom adrenaline R one made up 3” straight though.
  11. Pitch stop is good call. That or down pipe if it’s from the front. pull the boot carpet etc out and fold seats down. Noise will get way louder if it’s from the rear somewhere
  12. Don’t bother with intake it big money for not much gain and full retune. Get better tires over an intake. they all make 300whp without a cat about 21-22psi down low and 14-15psi up top. they have no rumble in the 2.0L and rear muffler is the thing you want to replace. you’ll be surprised how big a leap the GRB is from any previous model.
  13. Started it moved it to let the lawn live warmed it up Rev’d it Up and down it makes psst BOV noises and pop and crackles on deceleration turned it off Sigh
  14. They over boost on steep hills in high gears as well. Thats the only time I got mine to over boost. Open road on a reasonable hill in 5-6th. Where you really should shift down a gear.
  15. This post was brought to you today by the number 22 and the letter B.