Rosssub

Make sure you get the order right too. FR,RL,FL,RR. And also tighten the bleeder nut before mate lifts off the pedal as tiny air bubbles can be sucked back in through the threads causing a spongy caliper on that one wheel.

If it\'s a silencer cap welded onto a big bore tip, remove the rear section of exhaust and cut it off with an angle grinder/cut off blade or just use a hack saw. If it\'s an internal silencer then yeah, drill it out. Be warned, it may have been fitted to get the DB reading within WOF levels.

Inlet blocked at AFM, yeah should hold pressure. Only thing I can think is cracked secondary casing/housing or airflow through slogged shaft bearings. Maybe shagged Oring/seal at rear of inlet compressor housing? After one of my free boost test runs the secondary was smoking/steaming from near downpipe, so possibly a crack opened up more when very hot leaking oil or water. Either way I\'m going to get another VF27 so I can pull mine apart and see whats going on. Will load pics if I find anything interesting/amusing.

Hose 22, from secondary relief valve \'assembly\' (pre valve) to differential pressure sensor. I pulled hose 22 off the relief valve assembly (plastic crossover pipey bit), fitted a short hose and put air through that. So I was feeding air straight into the secondary turbo compressor outlet, with the intake blocked and I could hear airflow into exhaust downpipe.

Remove your TMIC and it will jump out at you.

I put 20psi with air compressor through line 22 into the secondary relief valve. I can hear air escaping through the secondary turbo into down pipe, or its going through the ecv?

P0128 Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature). Cold weather triggers this, do a reset and see if it comes back. Comes up as 128 through diag wires cause cel light cant flash for 0. Your mechanic is going to charge you a fortune for fitting a new thermostat and scanning for nothing.

Yeah when it should be free boosting (hose open) the primary peaks at 14psi then stabilises at 12psi. Secondary still rises slowly and vod is unchanged. Should I inspect the waste gate internals? Maybe a huge crack in seat or cracked plate causing massive internal leak?

Nah did it drifting round a roundabout ;D

Just checked turbo timer vac hose and boost gauge vac hose, both hold 15psi for over a minute with no leaks.

Can\'t find any possible shorts, tidied up a lot while under both sides. Clutch sensor switch has been bipassed, does this do anything other than stop car starting without foot on the clutch? I can\'t find any evidence that a zerosports controller has been fitted/removed. Only one wire has been spliced into the ECU loom which is connected to the turbo timer/monitor (Ultra model 4705) which has its own boost sensor fitted so the ecu splice is either rev\'s or speed wire Edit: ecu pin 48 = speed sensor

Nice, found Reuben\'s old post on installation: http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/02wiring.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/03plugs1.jpg http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa208/Pilot_Reuben/04plugs2.jpg All found here: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,312.0.html

Just had a look round the ecu and there are a few dodgy looking wires rolled up under there cable tied out of sight. If his stereo/turbo timer/boost guage wirings anything to go by there\'s a good chance there might be a short somewhere, I\'ll look into it tomorrow. Is a zerosports controller spliced into ecu looms at all or just power feeds?

Brought it from Nelson through trademe, off a guy that is a Clubsub member. Just tested waste gate again. With 10psi compressed air straight into actuator, it opens straight away and snaps shut. With pliers on the rod it feels smooth and doesn\'t bind at all with good spring resistance. When I release the rod I hear the spring go twang, over the sound of the gate slapping shut.

I put 10-15 psi into the actuator today leak testing again and I can hear it opening and closing. Altough it did seem to close slowly, not much of a \'Clack\' really? I\'ll go and try again now with air and pliers.

So test hose is in the right spot then, between waste gate actuator and existing \'T\' for hose 23. What\'s the best way to test the primary waste gate?

I finally got a free boost hose set up, I put another \'T\' in the primary/waste gate line and ran a single hose into the cabin with a screw driver plugging the end. Removing the screw driver at 4000 rpm while in VOD made no difference at all, even leaving the screw driver out when accellerating from a stand still made no difference. Primary still at 12psi and secondary came up slowly to 16psi. So does this mean my secondary is stuffed, my TT boost is rising slowly because the primary is working through the secondary\'s system? Also that my massive VOD is just lag because the primary is working through the secondary\'s system? Or have I got it wrong, just made my duty solenoid work over time and need to run hose 23 into the cabin to delete the duty solenoid all together?

Check your rear diff mounts. PITA to do, mechanics want $400-$500 to do them.

Ok I\'ll try that tomorrow night, see if it will free boost while in VOD/TT mode correct? I\'ll hook an in cabin bleed valve between the \'T\' and the waste gate actuator and open it when stuck in VOD. Carefully

True, yeah no codes yet. Second turbo has no play in shaft, spins smooth and free and has no visible damage/nicks to any fins.

Yes line 2 restrictor pill is clean, all lines cleaned and checked. Anyone know the resistance values/test values for the differential pressure sensor?

Yes have cleaned primary boost solenoid twice now, I\'ll hook battery up tomorrow afternoon and go for a test drive and report back.

I\'ve fitted a factory primary bypass valve, converted back to original vacuum pipe routing (deleted hose 10 mod) and have restrictor pills as per the above diagram. I disassembled my BBOD, removed each solenoid one at a time and cleaned them out thoroughly while switching them open and closed with an external 12v power source. Got a little more gunk out of the supercharged pressure relief valve #2 solenoid, but I still have the same issue with slow rising secondary boost. I\'ve disconnected the battery for the night with my fingers crossed but I\'ve completely run out of ideas. Help ???

Found here: http://www.subyclub.com/index.php/topic/3773-tt-boosting-issues/

Ok. Other than retrictor pill between primary and waste gate, and resrictor pill in BOV line, how many more and where should they be? Could someone please label them on this pic: