Dairusire

shesh, that hurts! Suddenly, getting four cams at only twice the price doesn't look to bad compared to $500+gst for one! haha

to be honest, your best bet is asking Subaru Directly. The chances of finding someone who'd be willing to split up a full set of Cams that are good isn't super high. Try wreckers or engine rebuilders, hell even Kelford. They may have something around that'll suit your purposes, be it second hand, or new whatever.

Maybe a good option for you would be to go to a kelford cam? Nothing extreme or anything but since you've gotta replace the cams?

Sure do. You can get full roof vent kits off Japan Parts OEM kits. https://www.japanparts.com/

So, done another batch of Type RA roof Latches. They’ve come out absolutely phenomenal, and am really happy with them. Added the spring that the factory one retains as well, so you can run the latch looser without it flopping around haha Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That was for the EJ257 but even the EJ207 early on in the GR/GV live cycle was prone to spinning a bearing.

mhm, maybe give WRC Developments a call? I don't know much about them, but they're in Napier? Sending an engine Away is also a good choice to be fair. Taylor Automotive in auckland, @SAS Their facebook here in christchurch, SpeedHub MotorSport in Auckland, of course theres also @PBMS as they're coming back into the scene strong recently.

You have dixcel pads and rotors yah muppet lol not bendix Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

haha well it's always good to try things out Should post up some photos of your car on the forums! I'm sure some people on here would be interested to see more JDM goodness.

Hiya! The Hose 10 mod only works on earlier gen legacys. The reason being, is because the hose 10 mod, actually brings the cars in line with how the revision D is setup Cheers, Dairusire

Not really the same there. There are maintenance tasks and procedures you can do on brake systems. To the best of my knowledge, there isn’t anything available for airbags... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You could alternatively go look for a damd steering wheel, which replaces the wheel bit but retains the original airbag? Or go get the wheel redone?

You got conned in the ol switch and bait tactic of bloody rental cars. They call it an upgrade but reality is it’s not and they likely charge less for that vehicle. Had it happen to me twice. Second time I wasn’t as forgiving and then I actually did get a free upgrade. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No kink shame here mate [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The thing is though, they're very much 'same same'. The difference is, one has a heavy as all heck pressure plate, and one doesn't and they may have different friction materials but I doubt they've got more. If anything you may find more wear from the heavy duty. Also, with heavy clutches like the aforementioned also introduce other wear on the vehicle a lot of people don't realise. For example more load and wear on the thrust bearings, potentially causing early failure. Flex in the firewall (metal fatigue), because you're fighting to push down a clutch. Also obviously more pressure on the clutch master and slave cylinders, obvious reasons 😛 Theres more to consider as you'll probably realise now than just what sort of power the clutch can hold. Well intended I have no doubt but a learning point no less. Someone on here schooled me about it a long time ago lol.

Mate, it's a non-turbo forester. A heavy Duty clutch here is way over the top haha Just go get a standard clutch from Subaru or exedy. Which ever is cheaper.

Aaaaand the RA has now been tuned properly for e85. And only E85 haha Giving the vf36 a leaning on and pushing 1.5Bar of boost through the poor old EJ205, and she loves it! Good lord this thing goes far better than it did before. Bit of a kick in the guts considering the last engine cost me about 7k + some after it nuked and this ol 205 was nothing but $500 including a new water pump and cam belt kit!! None the less I’m bloody happy Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the report back from Link about my ECU..... So I did some digging.... It was the fuel pump keeping the ECU Online.... un-freaking-believable.... Makes a hell of a lot of sense why the thing was seriously troubled and wouldn't behave under any normal circumstances. This ladies and gentlemen is why you should be careful jump starting your car, because I tracked it back to the one event where the jump cables touched for a split second and that's all it took to kill my ECU. EDIT: Also, as an addition, the ECU shouldn't be drawing more than 1-2 amps according to Matt. So even a 5A fuse would be more than suitable. As such I've gone to a 5A.

How'd you get on with Andy's advice?

/me sighs. The RA's ECU has been sent back to link. One issue after another, but hopefully we're finally reaching the end of my problems with this car lol. The aforementioned changes to my wiring did approximately diddly squat and apparently didn't fix my problem of low voltages to the ECU. None the less, a better wiring run is now in place for multiple things, so there should be zero issues with powering it, and serviceability is better. So after checking that my 12V supply to ECU was good to Chassis ground, I checked against the four grounds my ECU has on plugs A and B of the Storm ECU. Testing to each one, all the same 12.8v to those grounds, and that's including the one ground which was dodgy looking (reterminated after I found it anyway) which still had no issues. last test was to pop the plugs back on ECU and grab a couple paper clips and poke one into the positive and test out the grounds individually while the ECU was running. ECU showed 9.34V mean while positive to every ground showed, once again 12.8V supply. Thats a GG in my books and the ECU is coozed. Oh also, the fuel pump stays on permanently.... Doesn't prime as it should, won't turn off if you turn off the AUX Output it's on. As soon as you pull that pin on the ECU header, the pump won't turn on. So that's a problem too. Heres to hoping it's lifetime warranty covers it and I don't have to sh!t a brick paying for an ECU to be fixed.

Hiya Ultraforce. Do you know if the blitzen is a revision C or revision D legacy? One is much simpler than the other haha. Regardless, if you would like the engine replaced but don't have the skills to do some yourself, theres shops that can do this for you. MattChanics or @PBMS (Possum Bourne Motorsports) and a few others that come to mind. If you'd like to give the single turbo conversion a go, there are threads here in the legacy section detailing everything needed and what to do.

Link or a straight up grounding issue. It’s frustrating as hell. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep, the honeywell 150psi sensors require a 12v feed. I've tested the ignition coils and that's seeing things properly. It's just ECU voltage line that's the issue at this stage, but I'm taking the initiative to do the other things too, since I'm already there lol

So after quite a while trying to find where my over fueling issue at idle is, and potentially my issue also with my fuel pump staying on all the freaking time, its come down to something rather... Simple, yet so annoyingly hard to find. The wiring in my RA is stopping my ECU from seeing full voltages. it's getting 9.4-9.8v MAX. and it's still running which is amazing to be honest. Now, you may ask, why would this cause an over fueling issue? Brilliant question! ECU's control the injector dead time, with voltages. The lower the voltages, the greater the dead time. the higher the voltage and the faster dead time. As seen below and explained brilliantly by link. So as you can expect, the lower the voltage the ECU sees, is the absolute highest it could be expected to output. Soooooo How am I going to solve this? Well eliminate the wiring harness entirely for 12v delivery to the ECU, but not only for that for for the fuel pump, Can Lambda wideband, Fuel pressure sensor, Flex Fuel sensor, and oil pressure sensor. Due to the above, this is how I came to doing this.

more than a bit s***. imho