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Everything posted by Dairusire

  1. Well, I got it running after about 4 weeks of faffing round with getting some Radium fuel rails that weren't stuffed out of the box. Side note, Patrick at pbms was really helpful. With that sorted, it's also fixed the fuel leak I was experiencing. Boy this thing absolutely rips. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  2. Thaaaats not true anymore. The Rev A-D are all tunable now. An Lal at custom culture and tuning tunes them. There's also the group out of the UK AFAIK that sell off the shelf tunes and equipment for em. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  3. Theoretically, yes. Reality no. The MAF should be able to take care of any variation in airflow from turbo differences. Wouldn't hurt getting the car tuned if it hasn't been before though. They really come alive after one.
  4. I mean, if you want to consider selling that HKS exhaust, I'm fairly certain my RA could do with a nicer exhaust than this s****y looking 3" I've got on my car currently lol. F*cking mushroom tip muffler that subirex put on it is heinous
  5. What you stated but also their divorced downpipe works about as well as two people who actually had a REALLY bad divorce. It's a poorly cut basically gas axed hole in the pipe... The rust is a big one but also the fact the exhaust doesn't actually come finished, and the welds overall are trash in comparison to the near HKS level of pricing you pay for it.
  6. I dunno. If I were in your shoes, unless its hitting the ground or sounds bad etc I probably wouldn't change? I do not rate the rage exhaust systems tbh. For what you pay and what you get and need to do it's a bit 'meh'. At this point it's a case of 'Do as you want' but there very likely will be some power loss.
  7. Just so we're clear, I'm NOT certain you will see spool differences when still using a single scroll turbo. When using a twinscroll turbo that's actually made for it, yeah you would.
  8. Theoretically there shouldn't be any issue as your total flow is still limited by the factory turbo. if anything the engine should run a little healthier as they've got individual runners a lot further from the port. I wouldn't worry about driving it before the tune, just don't be a savage on it incase it does introduce a significant change to your engine.
  9. Sorry bud, Have replied to you just now
  10. Yeah, you could reach out to GCG turbo in AUS, as they could make one, but you could say goodbye to north of 3k Otherwise, you could find a blown legacy twinscroll turbo, send it to murch and be like "I want power plz" and he'll build you a new turbo.
  11. I'm willing to bet you got Legacy ones. Which aren't bad. I can sell you a twinscroll to singlescroll up-pipe if you'd like. That's $150 but you'll spend 5x as much getting one made or twisted.
  12. There's heaps available.... You just gotta twist the turbskis
  13. I mean, fair enough. I run a V7 STi engine in my Type RA with STi twinscroll headers. Sounds absolutely wild when on boost. As for twinscroll vs single, twinscroll really does come on earlier and feels nicer throughout the range imho. Worth the upgrade.
  14. My 10 cents. Since you're aiming for the mid 200kws, a murch turbo may be the good middle ground option. It'll still be 'new' (refreshed), larger comp blade and a good trimmed wheel. He can alternatively recore it entirely with his own core as well and make it something else other than a VF22. Personally I think you're paying a lot (says the guy who spent 5k in fabrication work for his turbo kit alone lol) if you go the in GCG direction. It's a $3000+ turbo. Imho, I'd by FAR prefer pulling that engine out, take those heads off and get some cams and $500 worth of porting to clean up the castings and maybe get some flow once getting that turbo refreshed.
  15. Well, this has to be potentially one of the most frustrating weekends I've had with Subarus in a VERY long time. warning. LONG read. tl;dr LOTS of things don't go my way. Things broke that shouldn't have broke. I consider insurance fraud. I fixed it after putting in WAY too many stressful hours. I'm definitely not selling it now because it owes me WAY too much money. Also, @SAS Richard, thank you for the help on identifying the issue from over 1200km away Man knows so much about Subarus it's not funny. Kinda is, comical but guru is literally a thing. @94 Leone Dude, you're legendary. Your assistance in getting this flame heap of a turd running was absolutely critical, I can't thank you more. lastly, take a moment to thank people who share information here on clubsub. You're all awesome. I wouldn't know anything or how to fix much without this community or its support. So cheers all. =================================================================== Got my Legacys engine back and started putting it in on Saturday, engine in the bay in under an hour. Going really well! I thought Start bolting things up run out of light so call it a day. Good progress was made. Sunday brings us getting most of the last things bolted up! all ancillaries, coolant system, etc all hooked up ready to go! and nothing It cranks but won't do crap. Check fuel priming to injectors. Yeap got fuel pressure. Check Spark? Yep got that too. Breathe in? Yep got air. Pulled spark plugs and they're cleeeeeean. wtf, maybe fuel injectors gummed up from sitting for nearly 3 months? Drive home in the car I've borrowed from a mate.... Literally pulling into the drive way I hear a sound no-one wants to hear. The sound of pads having worn through and being metal on metal. Check the brakes and confirmed. They're boned. Well, guess there goes by back-up for getting back to work tomorrow morning "Hey boss, look... I'm having a really bad weekend" MONDAY: Out they come I'm off to petroject and say 'please test and clean if needed, need done now' 30 minutes and $75 later. "Good news and bad news. Good news, injectors are perfect, like spraying way too well for what are 20yr old injectors. Bad news is, your fuel system issue your problem with the car not starting. I did replace the o-rings though. They were perished " WHAT THE HELL! Check crank sensor and cam sensor, also, fyi, if you've got a multimeter you can test these and for subarus they should come out between 1.5-3 ohms. Mine came out bang in the middle 1.9ohms. Well if that's not the issue.... *Looks at the Crank Sprocket* "God dammit" After confirming with online parts numbers for my car, my crank sprocket was the wrong bloody one. Drive to pukekohe from North shore and back. remove cambelt, put on the right sprocket. Go to install the last idler threaded the bolt aaall the way in by hand, went in really nice, just to tighten it up a smidge before hitting them with the torque wrench... aaaaaand righty loosey. Pulled the ENTIRE thread out of the block. Kevin comes in clutch, delivers me a M10x1.25 helicoil kit at 6:30pm at night and install the helicoil that night, in the dark. Tuesday aaaand I put it back to the absolute minimum I can to try start it. First try, does it even count if you didn't hit the starter? ignition on, fuel pump prime and I hear the unmistakable sound of fuel pissing out on the ground. Oh look, an injector seal is leaking. Pull both right hand injectors and looks like one must've gotten an o-ring JUUUUUUST too smol. Back to petroject, they give me new o-rings, bang em back in the car and sure as heck, it starts up thankfully not spewing fuel everywhere. Big yass. Only to be shot in the foot 40 minutes later when I notice that the clutch ain't doing crap. and that ladies and gentlemen, is where I wasted the next 6 hours trying to bleed it out, and fix what can't be fixed. A quick visit from a friend of mine who did this sorta crap for a job, "you're an idiot sandwich mate. You've got a blown Master Cylinder....." and that brings us to our Finale. Wednesday. up at 8am. Down over to Grey Lyn for rotors and pads for the other car as I'm thinking maybe it's time to eat a slice of humble pie and try fix the lowest hanging fruit issue first and brake fluid for my legacy and this loaner car. Friend from giltrap gives me a buzz while I'm driving "You need a master cylinder aye? I can get you a cheap one from PartsMaster for $80?" You know I'm all about them deals. pick it up, shoot back to the legacy, and I sh!t you not, that thing is bolted up bled and working in under 25 minutes. Quick test drive.. To hamilton for work?? Lets take all the tools.... Runs, drives and oh god it was so worth the stress this @$$hole has put me through haha. Guess it's just in time for a wash eh? Oh... Hey weather system.
  16. Honestly, there's a huge variance in things to buy. As far as it goes for getting a legacy with the McIntosh stereo systems, they're dated and likely just going to get ripped out anyway. Like the one in my legacy which is completely stuffed. But what can you expect for a 20yr old car. So don't let this be a selling point because the likelihood is it's trash or soon going to be. Personally the late model (07) BP5 Legacys are really nice cars. They've got nice interior etc and really are the end of where the legacys felt like a 'drivers' car. To be fair, they never really were, but that's where it absolutely stops. They're also overpriced imho. They're nice cars, but people know they're nice and the demand is enough to drive the market up. Unreasonably so for what realistically is a 13yr old car. Anything later, especially '12+ have a quite nice interior and do really get that nice quality feel where Subaru really did step their game up. As far as reliability goes, of the BP5 variant, the 3.0L is the more reliable engine comparatively to the 2.0 The 2.0 has problems with some models getting the crappy VF38 turbo I believe. It's also known for the JDM cars to nuke their engines when driven hard due to being made to run on 100 octane in japan, and without having been tuned for NZ fuels can lead to severe detonation. tl;dr If you want a turbo (which sounds like you're sold on anyway), find one that's got a bloody good service history. If it's had a recently engine replacement, make sure it was a rebuild, you've got receipts to provide proof, someones word is not good enough. The 6spd models are far better than the 5 speeds. Just in general a nicer gearbox. Same with turbo replacement, if it's not a VF38, it's probably been replaced with I think the TD04-L. Someone confirm, because I can't remember exactly. OR If you buy one from Japan, once again service history, but most importantly get it serviced from top to bottom and get it tuned by a reputable tuner.
  17. Got all the gaskets for the legacy engine. Plus others which I saw were being sold and had low quantity so bought them anyway. Because reasons. I'm really gonna be glad to get this legacy going again. It's been far too long.
  18. If you ever want to swap your S203 for a really modified Type RA with over 300kw, let me know
  19. That's a big yikes. That sorta balancing time is $$$
  20. Just a nice photo from beginning of this year at Leadfoot
  21. That looks gorgeous! Really nice and tidy BH Also, shameless plug for anyone reading. Theres a one day sale for anything Link related. can do up to 30% off and taking pre-orders until Thursday. Sale day is Friday. Cash preferable. But I wanna hook up the clubbies and best as I can. Let me know if you want Link gear or ECUs. because, basically... the Storm G4x goes from $1950+gst to under $1350+gst.... Good deals to be had y'all. Over the weekend, I pulled the engine out of my Legacy.... Because blown headgasket. yaaaaaaaaaaaaay... It's sah dirteh That crap you see on the oil filter? Yeah, that filter has only been on there 6mo.... big yikes.
  22. Also, a side note to the above. As much as I wish to support local businesses (subaru NZ or a dealership), their pricing is absolutely pathetic and makes it economically unviable to even do headgaskets for an engine in a older or stock car. For example, at a discounted price, I was quoted just over $960 Want an example of price differences. 11044AA483 (headgasket) - NZ: $109.71ea Partsouq: $43.08ea 806933010 (o-ring) - NZ: $5.45ea Partsouq: $1.59ea 13293AA051 (Spark plug seal) - NZ: $13.41ea Partsouq: $5.45ea 13270AA162 (r cover gasket) - NZ: $24.38ea Partsouq: $10.18ea 13272AA094 (R cover gasket) - NZ: $24.38 Partsouq: $10.18ea 11095AA042 (cylinder head bolts) - NZ: $25.30ea Partsouq (revised part 11095AA123): $5.16 11051AA070 (half moon seals) - NZ: $17.71ea Partsouq: $3.49ea 806733030 (oil seal) - NZ: $18.98ea Partsouq: $4.05ea 14038AA000 (exhaust gasket) - NZ: $22ea Partsouq: $4.33 and the absolute best for last. This is an absolute piss take for pricing. 14035AA421 (intake manifold gasket) - NZ: $32.91ea Partsouq: $3.90ea Want the biggest kicker? Before you jump in saying 'Well that's before GST and shipping!" Shipping is a total of $37.61 NZD on FedEx 2-5 day courier. And all those prices for the gaskets in NZ.... Yeah those are plus GST....
  23. Well, I placed my largest order off partsouq to date so far. Ordered just over 82 individual gaskets. Some for the RA with it's upcoming sleeved 2.35L build, but mostly for the legacy which has decided to blow a headgasket unfortunately.
  24. Saturday, Well, engine came back out! Fixed the misaligned clutch. Put the oil drain on, with heat shielding. Deleted the GDB clutch bleed setup in favour of single braided line. Got that around the wrong way. Fixed that. Engine in, wastegates off to check spring pressures. Now both have 7psi springs. Flumbled around trying to figure out how to get it all to fit in there. Turns out, turbo on first, then engine in, then downpipe, then wastegate dump pipe on wastegate, then wastegates in place. She's a little tooooight Also fiddled with fuel lines. Plumbed the -8 AN lines to the stock body for the time being. Then today! Get under the car to install exhaust manifold on engine. Promptly get it half on, drop it on my face, break my nose. Mint. Hospital check because recently had surgery on my nose and would rather sort that now lol. Reattempt getting manifold on without breaking nose again, am successful. Yuss. Replace the fittings in the wastegates, because old and cruddy. Cut heat shielding to size for boost lines. Run vac lines for wastegates. #goodenuff Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
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