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Everything posted by Dairusire

  1. Wait, aren’t the wrx seats from the 01-06 Wrx’s black/grey anyway? Only the sti seats are blue black? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. If you're referring to what looks like curbing in my first photo it's actually not haha. They got dropped on their face when off the car by my lovely now wife haha. chipped the crap out the paint haha
  3. My wheels are done with being Media blasted and now Powder Coated by @chulozumo! Ho boy do I think that's an improvement over the silver that they were! So. The before And AFTER!
  4. Narrowband for sure on all models. Wideband only on newer generation and some legacys? I think? Don't quote me. Oil pressure yes, but it's a switch sensor, not a pressure sensor. So it'll tell you 'yes' there's pressure but what that pressure is, it will not tell you. Again, referencing earlier models. Oil temp at least in the GC, GDs there is not. There might be in later models, but again. I'm pretty well shoehorned into earlier models. As for CANBUS, like I was talking about in reference to aftermarket ECU's eg Link and the like, they come with CANBUS (most do). That's what I was referencing where you can use CANBUS gauges or a Dash cluster, like a haltech IC7 or whatever the link one is etc. It's how I'm running the Link CANBUS wideband and soon to be Haltech EGT sensors and maybe a dash if I'm feeling spicy (I probably won't they're horribly expensive). The answer is yes, that piece of string is long. What I'm eluding to here is if you want them all, fine do it right. Otherwise the best options? Just spend the money elsewhere. Great tyres, lighter wheels and better suspension with good brake pads can be absolutely transformative. Or you could do nothing? Save the money? I kind of wish someone told me that when I started this whole thing with my car. End of the day, your car. Your choice. Your money. If you're happy with what you've done, who am I to tell you otherwise.
  5. I'm going to stop you here just for this not so quick explanation. It's not to be rude but to really advise you. Gauges and sensors are typically a complete waste of time, across the board, if not being used in real time by the ECU. The ECU is doing operations at literally the rate of tens of thousands per second, if not millions. EGTs, oil pressure, oil temp, boost pressure, Wideband, IAT, fuel pressure, ethanol content, fuel temp blah blah I can go on. In short there is absolutely zero chance you will catch something even 1/10th as fast as the ECU can and will. If you want to get gauges and sensors and really have it matter? Heres my advice to you. Do it once, do it properly. Get a motorsports ECU (link, haltech, motec, syvecs, holley. Your preference), get all the sensors you want, have them wired into the ECU properly, and if you want them displayed get some CANBUS gauges or get a CANBUS dash cluster which is programable to have everything. I say this because it is super easy to spend $1000 on gauges that realistically, won't save your car, engine and end of the day, your money. The above is horribly expensive, but sensors save even more expensive components. NOW! To your questions. To be honest, if you've lost oil pressure completely and notice it on the gauge it is already too late 99.99% of the time. Even if it hasn't knocked yet there will be major scoring to bearings, cams and other pieces in the engine. So yeah it's more so just noticing when driving around if it's somewhere it's not meant to be. Not enough to trigger engine safety protections but enough that I notice and then check my ECU logs. in the case of oil temp, Yeah in my example yes that is predominantly what it's for at least for me, but once again, ECU logging and engine safeties get to that well before I do. Also normally when you've got oil that hot and you're loosing oil pressure you should drop the oil and change it. Overheating oil can and will damage the oil in ways that can then do potential damage to your engine. Though, if you want them for the look, and less about the sensors themselves. Knock yourself out. They're cool as sh!t and I've love mine even though they realistically don't do crap for me haha
  6. imho, just oil pressure and oil temp. Once again, they best serve when actually integrated into your cars ECU, as an ECU will respond instantly where-as you might not even notice. Though, Oil temp and oil pressure are in some examples good on track for purposes of not pushing it too far. For example, I have oil temp and pressure in my RA, because with the temp it's a lot slower changes, easier to notice over time. Pressure is less about seeing it go to zero because if it goes to zero the damage is done. It's more so about knowing when your oil is too hot and you're loosing pressure because of that, tells you when to button off and give the car a few good low rpm cool down laps at a good cruising speed. Boost is another case of really only useful when troubleshooting an issue. Aka, hitting boost cut or the car has gotten sluggish or it's picked up a LOT more power and you need to figure out why. Though, it can be useful and for me it has proven so when I've looked at the boost gauge and realised there was 30psi of boost being fed into my stock EJ207. It was going REEEEEEALLY good there.
  7. My answer is that it's really only good for looks if it's not wired into the ECU and actually utilised. Like, sure you could use it on the road and be able to tell if you're running at 1.0 lambda when cruising but in reality, when you're actually driving it you will not or at least should not be looking at the gauge. You also, unless you're logging it, won't be able to tell exactly where in the RPM range at what throttle load the cars at so it's basically a turkey shoot.
  8. If you don't believe the marketing either, my ethanol content sensor in my Type RA confirmed that too lol
  9. I don't know why on earth you guys are suggesting 98? He's clearly said 100 octane is available and it's cheaper..... Do you guys read? So yes, 100 octane man. I can also attest that in a twin turbo legacy, just going from 98 to 100 octane got rid of a slight detonation problem I was having. Definitely not 95.
  10. Me having my RA go through wof on 235 semi slicks, swapped subframes, engine, bigger turbo, brembos, and 114.3 swap and passing.
  11. Well, I got it running after about 4 weeks of faffing round with getting some Radium fuel rails that weren't stuffed out of the box. Side note, Patrick at pbms was really helpful. With that sorted, it's also fixed the fuel leak I was experiencing. Boy this thing absolutely rips. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  12. Thaaaats not true anymore. The Rev A-D are all tunable now. An Lal at custom culture and tuning tunes them. There's also the group out of the UK AFAIK that sell off the shelf tunes and equipment for em. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  13. Theoretically, yes. Reality no. The MAF should be able to take care of any variation in airflow from turbo differences. Wouldn't hurt getting the car tuned if it hasn't been before though. They really come alive after one.
  14. I mean, if you want to consider selling that HKS exhaust, I'm fairly certain my RA could do with a nicer exhaust than this s****y looking 3" I've got on my car currently lol. F*cking mushroom tip muffler that subirex put on it is heinous
  15. What you stated but also their divorced downpipe works about as well as two people who actually had a REALLY bad divorce. It's a poorly cut basically gas axed hole in the pipe... The rust is a big one but also the fact the exhaust doesn't actually come finished, and the welds overall are trash in comparison to the near HKS level of pricing you pay for it.
  16. I dunno. If I were in your shoes, unless its hitting the ground or sounds bad etc I probably wouldn't change? I do not rate the rage exhaust systems tbh. For what you pay and what you get and need to do it's a bit 'meh'. At this point it's a case of 'Do as you want' but there very likely will be some power loss.
  17. Just so we're clear, I'm NOT certain you will see spool differences when still using a single scroll turbo. When using a twinscroll turbo that's actually made for it, yeah you would.
  18. Theoretically there shouldn't be any issue as your total flow is still limited by the factory turbo. if anything the engine should run a little healthier as they've got individual runners a lot further from the port. I wouldn't worry about driving it before the tune, just don't be a savage on it incase it does introduce a significant change to your engine.
  19. Sorry bud, Have replied to you just now
  20. Yeah, you could reach out to GCG turbo in AUS, as they could make one, but you could say goodbye to north of 3k Otherwise, you could find a blown legacy twinscroll turbo, send it to murch and be like "I want power plz" and he'll build you a new turbo.
  21. I'm willing to bet you got Legacy ones. Which aren't bad. I can sell you a twinscroll to singlescroll up-pipe if you'd like. That's $150 but you'll spend 5x as much getting one made or twisted.
  22. There's heaps available.... You just gotta twist the turbskis
  23. I mean, fair enough. I run a V7 STi engine in my Type RA with STi twinscroll headers. Sounds absolutely wild when on boost. As for twinscroll vs single, twinscroll really does come on earlier and feels nicer throughout the range imho. Worth the upgrade.
  24. My 10 cents. Since you're aiming for the mid 200kws, a murch turbo may be the good middle ground option. It'll still be 'new' (refreshed), larger comp blade and a good trimmed wheel. He can alternatively recore it entirely with his own core as well and make it something else other than a VF22. Personally I think you're paying a lot (says the guy who spent 5k in fabrication work for his turbo kit alone lol) if you go the in GCG direction. It's a $3000+ turbo. Imho, I'd by FAR prefer pulling that engine out, take those heads off and get some cams and $500 worth of porting to clean up the castings and maybe get some flow once getting that turbo refreshed.
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