Dairusire

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Dairusire last won the day on January 12

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About Dairusire

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  • Drives :
    2013: '00 B4 RSK Rev.C (sold 2014 June)
    2014: '99 STi Type RA V5.10 (Twinscroll setup with complete v10 GDB driveline), Still own.
    2018: '01 Legacy GT Rev.D 'E-Tune'

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  1. Haha nah the rears were already done when I got them. Fronts mustve been on the way out and putting them on last mustve been the one to send it home so to speak. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  2. That is a big ooofff. What's the game plan now? Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  3. That's not how this works You'll either get over it quickly or you won't want to sell it haha.
  4. While there's still a good 12kw bump in power, the noticeable difference will be that torque increase. Nice healthy increase there. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  5. Yep it is. I have it in the rear brakes already in all four bolt holes. Just gotta do all four for the fronts now. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  6. You know what's a car crime? Brembo and their crappy decision to not use a steel insert in their complete alloy calipers. Over torqued it a bit? They a bit old and weary? Guess what. You now get to strip out your $1000 brakes... [emoji58][emoji58] Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  7. haha yeah I had it off to spray some start ya bastard in it, as it currently doesn't have any fuel lines running to the tank but I wanted to make sure it actually kicked over (which it did thankfully).
  8. Fixed the 'new' cars ECU power problem. Turned out to be a fuse, but because it was missed the first time around things had been pulled and essentially was in a worse state than it began (wasn't myself), so after figuring out exactly what goes where and how things are powered, I traced the issue back to the fuse. Regardless, the wiring of these cars is freaking bonkers are no wonder theres so much un-needed wiring in there. Made a thread about it here. Next thing to do on my list is to do fuel lines in the rear of the car. Going to do -8 feed and -6 return, and while I'm at it, figure out a double pumper solution using stock hanger. Because I can. Also, car photo tax.
  9. So, because this was a PITA for me, I'm sharing the knowledge I've gleaned from this. Anyone else is welcome to fill in the blanks that I've missed. In short the V3/4 I bought had an issue with ECU not starting. Now yes the issue is now fixed, and I found what my problem was. It was a fuse short. Apparently I missed it on the first pass. Somehow. In any case, if you have the same issue as I did, where a car will turn over, dash will light up, but fuel pump won't prime and lastly the ECU won't turn on, don't go start pulling this apart to find the issue. Just check Fuse #11 in the drivers (RHD) side fuse box The bottom plugs in this image are the ones you're looking for. 3 plugs. EJ20K Input 112 Green Signal wire to relay that switches on ECU power on pin 113 (not joking) 113 actual switched ECU power that turns ECU on 114 ECU Circuit power 111 Ignition SW 37 Airflow sensor signal 36 Airflow sensor ground 38 O2 Sensor 33 crank angle sensor + 34 crank angle sensor ground 35 cam angle sensor 40 water temp sensor 39 knock sensor 48 throttle sensor power 46 throttle sensor signal 45 absolute pressure sensor 22 car speed sensor 43 exhaust noise sensor 1 31 Air conditioner SW 23 Starter SW 32 Neutral SW 115 sensor-type ground 105 injector ground 110 power type ground 116 ?? 106 ignition ground 24 intake temperature sensor 28 intercooler spray auto SW 7:44 output 104 injector #1 101 injector #2 102 injector #3 103 injector #4 1 ignition signal 1,2 2 ignition signal 3,4 107 IDC valve open 108 IDC valve close 26 canister purge solenoid 8 ? pressure solenoid 5 atmosphere switch solenoid 17 radiator fan relay 1 25 radiator fan relay 2 4 fuel pump relay 11 aircon relay 3 check engine lamp 12 exhaust sound warning lamp 27 engine rotation signal 20 select monitor send 21 select monitor receive 41 test mode connector 42 reed (lead?) memory connector 30 AT ? 18 AT air amount So if you've checked the fuse and thats fine or you've replaced it and it's still not working, check the relay. The relay is located under the dash, to the right of the go go juice pedal, and is brown. Photo below for context. Now, the wires coming into the relay are 2x black with red stripe down the middle (permanent 12-14v live) 1x Yellow w/ light blue down middle (switched 12-14v to ECU from Relay) 1x Yellow w/ red stripe down middle (switched 12-14v to I assume Fuel pump relay? I don't know.) 1x Green wire (switching signal to turn off/on relay from ECU) 1x Black wire (ground) Now, I have ZERO clue as to why Subaru insisted doing it the way they have. Essentially there is switched power from the ignition, which runs through fuse 11, that goes to the ECU on pin 114, that then turns on the signal wire on 112 so it can switch ON the relay and send power back to the ECU on Pin 113.... Yeah. So there's that 0.o Enjoy your misery ????
  10. It honestly looks SUV sized. Like maybe, but it seems to be too large for a WRX Hatch Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
  11. In short, I did a thing and Bought @Furze car, CHOPDU. It's been sitting for a while, unfortunately, as it's had a few electrical issues and as such projects need to move on. SO! It's going to get stripped and parted. While I'm certain I could fix it and get it back up and running in no-time, I don't have the funds to keep it (which I very much so want to). So, as such, I'm picking it up this weekend and next week I'll begin the process of take all the parts off it to get ready for sale. There are a few goodies I'll be taking my way and with that the RA gets an upgrade! Things to change over are - v7 STi 207 w/ Supertech dual valve springs - Spec C intake manifold (no TGVs!!) - Murch HX35 turbo setup - MCA Red custom valved suspension - 114.3 hubs (swapping these as they were recently replaced with new bearings on all corners) - Dixcel Z Type Pads (F/R) and Dixcel slotted rotors (F/R) - Oil catch tank setup Everything else is going and I'll have a TON of work to do.
  12. It looks quite nice. It may or may not have a closed deck engine, since it was rebuilt too and the price isn't bad. Only issue with that era car, is you're limited in terms of mods, as phase one engine. Give it a good once over at a mechanics on a hoist.
  13. the two washers to the best of my knowledge one should go on top and the other on the bottom. Flick me a PM on facebook or something and remind me at about 5:30pm to take a photo for you. Before I drive to welly tonight haha.
  14. While I don't disagree with you, because honestly, the money factor you're spot on. I can't say I completely agree with the statement either? There is most certainly bonuses to going either route. There is however, downsides to them both as well. Cost is certainly the top factor. So lets start here. Stock STi upgrade. The good: Good well rounded package that gives you extra punch at quite a reasonable price. simple upgrade route. other than bolting/plugging in what you've been given, that is it. Hard to stuff up. The not so good: you are talking about old injectors, and old ECU tech. My suggestion if you want to go this route is to make sure everything is cleaned and tested, for example. Have the injectors cleaned and flow tested, and make sure the ECU you're buying HASN'T been opened (theres a factory seal on em). Wouldn't be the first time someones tried to hock off a faulty ECU because they didn't know what blew up their engine, so parted out. G4+ upgrade route The good: you can get plug-in ECU for your gen car! Makes putting in an ECU very very easy. There are also second hand ones coming up for sale all the time. Often in the $800 ballpark, so try not to pay more than this if you're buying second hand. They also have lifetime warranty. It opens up aftermarket parts for your car that simply put, the factory ECU cannot handle. ECU controlled widebands, Flex fuel, better knock control, anti-lag /2 step / launch control / automatic DCCD control / logging You want extra sensors? You can add them. You want an AVCS engine from GRB? You can do it (with doing some wiring of course) Downsides. Brand new it's much more expensive than the cheaper STi upgrades. Plus the factor of professional tuning. Theres no doubt what Boon has said is right. You will need to get the car tuned, be it by someone like @Pappu1 or @SAS OR if you're quite savvy and have patience to learn how to tune yourself, properly, you could buy a course package from the likes of HP Academy, where you'll learn the ins and outs of tuning. Then you can tune that puppy all by yourself. Summary: You need to think intensely about if you want to do more things in the future or just keep the car as is. If you want to do things the stock (or STi) ECU can't handle, then honestly a Link or Haltech may be your best move long term. If you just want to give it a freshen up and some more punch, then the STi upgrades are definitely a winner. Regardless, if you do the STi upgrade and then decide 'hey I want more' theres absolutely nothing stopping you from getting that Link anyway and still getting more power than you would've originally.
  15. Castrol Syntrax. To the best of my knowledge, it's what the cars are serviced with, and I've never had any issues with it being in my DCCD 5 speed or my S204 box.