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gtb36

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Posts posted by gtb36

  1.  pl0x said:

    yup id say it was center diff binding and worn rear diff bushes banging

    yes been thinking center diff.. but when you turn left and right slow it dasnt make that noise same if i go around and around no noise and rear diff new not to long ago and new rear bushes as well..

  2.  Koom said:

    Nope. They'd be very broken if the outer could spin around the inner bit.

    Weren't you asking about centre diffs elsewhere? Sounds like the diff is binding up. What state is the rear diff in?

    yes been thinking center diff.. but when you turn left and right slow it dasnt make that noise same if i go around and around no noise and rear diff new not to long ago

  3. hi ppl, can cvs slip ??? its just when you take off hard and go around a round about very hard there a big noise from the back end and it seems to pull the back end in/down with a big bang bang noise not sure what it is

    thanks for any help

  4.  slyrwd said:

    Hey there all!!

    Ive done a few EJ20T Engine swaps over the last year for mates with subys and in my own, usually only takes me 1 day or so to remove engine and replace then fire up but ive taken on my mates BD5 with the EJ20TT ???, keeps over heating so she wants a new engine installed. Any pointers or tips for the TT Transplant?? Just to try make my life with this car a lil easier, theres so much more s*** in the bay than the Single Turbos, usualyl i try keep away from the TTs but ill help her out, only charging her $200 for the job too.. Thats too cheap aye!!!

    Any help or pointers muchly appreiciated!!

    take some good clean photos of the engine bay just so if you get stick you can good look at the photos

  5.  MadSi said:

    Afternoon all =)

    I'm currently attempting to diagnose a couple of faults in my Legacy:

    - 1997 GTB manual with EJ20R motor, orange MAF, 4G 3-plug ECU,

    stock standard apart from boost gauge, atmo BOV and new exhaust from down-pipes back (Primary cat still there, rear one removed.), has new fuel pump, fuel filter and K&N Panel filter.

    * MAF receiving battery voltage as opposed to 5v.

    * Backfiring through intake manifold on occasion (under acceleration).

    * Rough idle, hesitation, when setting off at lights for example.

    * Exceptionally poor fuel economy (even for a TT).

    * Intermittent complete lack of boost, mainly after a brief period of boost+WOT, sometimes the boost gauge reads 0, sometimes it reaches a full-on 3psi! Ha. This lasts for up to 5 seconds, then begins to boost normally again. When this occurs I note the exhaust sounds different, as though the exhaust gate to the secondary is being held open.

    * Noted when boosting it up the hill out of Mosgiel the following: Boost crept up to 20psi, engine began detting (obviously this is going to happen at that level of boost when everything is stock ha) and blowing clouds of dark grey/black smoke until I backed off.

    * Primary boost is 16psi, secondary is 18psi normally (so I have observed since fitting the gauge).

    Other than that, the car runs like a dream ha. =)

    Your thoughts on this?

    Also if anyone has an ECU for this particular model that I could borrow for half-hour or so, I'd be grateful. =)

    Cheers good people!

    -Si

    pm me i have a good one 4G 3-plug ECU

  6.  Black aRSe said:

    Hi all can anyone with the above model legacy or knows for sure please tell me which color afm they should be running??? i have my current motor that has a green afm but suspect the guy i got it off changed it and the new motor im putting in was running a blue sticker one.

    Thanks in advance :)

    100% should be a blue afm..

  7.  D-Style said:

    under the bonnet Fuse box should be a high rated fuse (think 80A) check that. If no luck after that, start checking all fuses to make sure they are ok.

    its a 100A and yes its blowin so i try to get one tomorw for him..

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