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Loren

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Loren last won the day on May 9

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  1. A full carbon fibre 22B that costs 5 million pounds... for the fans.
  2. There are loads of places in the firewall that you can use. Stick a hole on one of the wiring loom boots and shove it through.
  3. just put a quiet exhaust on and get it rechecked. do whatever you have to after you have a wof. find a mechanic that doesn't hate you for future wofs. end of story.
  4. I worry about earthquakes while being under there... mostly I should be worried about banging my head, because it happens all the time.
  5. exhaust leak? do you see, smell or feel any leaks around the exhaust?
  6. That is dropping randomly in my book... I have had jacks that do that, and they need to be replaced or fixed. If you look at how the provided scissor jack works, you'll see that the pinch weld is used to locate the jack only. The weight goes on sill, both sides of the weld. I have wooden blocks with a cut out to fit over the weld... then I used a stand under the that. Sometimes for the front stands I will use the rear bush of the front A-arms. It's stable enough, but I'm not that keen on using them. For the rear you could use the bushes of the front of the rear diff carrier (the big T shaped thing that stretches right across the car). The sills with wooden blocks (and cut outs) is best though. If you can't see any damage where the car hit the stands, I doubt anyone else will be able to. They will creak and make noise when the weight settles on them... could have just been a violent version of that?
  7. Jacks that just drop randomly are dangerous. Buy a better jack or get yours fixed. There will be sill damage from a 10cm drop... probably just some dented sills or pinch welds (which are not designed to be used with jacks stands btw). If your floor is a bit uneven, then adjust the height of the stand rather than move the stand to a different place (imo). Often one of the rear stands won't have quite as much weight on it as the other (if the floor is a bit uneven)... it doesn't matter as 60% of the weight of the car is at the front anyway. You can lift or lower the car in stages if you think it's safer... it can be quite scary putting a car on stands when you haven't done it many times... plus when you have a dodgy jack and then also when you are in a small garage and don't have a lot of space to get out of the way of a falling car. Always check each stand has all 4 feet squarely on the ground and that the weight on the stand is directly above the stand... no lateral load. Always check every stand before you get under the car, and give the car a good shake too. Never take any risks or short cuts... you will die.
  8. If you look at external wastegates they have two ports. One port pushes the gate open, and the other holds it closed. So operating in a situation where the spring pressure is too light to hold the gate shut in order to meet the desire boost level, is normal in a lot of situations. But not with a factory setup.
  9. That's what I was saying, but with less words and civility.
  10. So you want to hear from someone that changed their spring pressure and/or actuator for no reason? Probably not the person you want advice from Unless you are having a boost control problem, there likely isn't anything to improve.
  11. That's different, factory tints look darker from the outside. Aftermarket tints look just as dark from inside the car. As for exhaust noise... I live on a very busy street and hear extremely loud cars, motorbikes, trucks and even Utes ... all the time. No way they are legal, but still common.
  12. If you remove the wing, I think you still need to put a high stop light on the rear parcel shelf anyway.
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