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MatdaymonV2

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Posts posted by MatdaymonV2

  1. Looking at buying a facelift SG5 or an SH5 (if one is in budget) to replace the ol' SF.

     

    What are common issues to keep an eye out for with the SG and SH chassis? Thinking along the lines of watery headlights, oil leaks, stuff that ALWAYS breaks. 

  2. Installed a new boost gauge to replace the old one I scored off a friend with its annoying as S*** blue back lighting. Also got an air compressor on sale at Supercheap at the same time so next time I hit the dunes/mud/grasskhana I can actually adjust my air pressure to suit the task at hand. Worked out a while back running 38psi on the beach results in a very hot 20G!

  3. Just the usual wheel alignment. Lifted springs don't really go high enough to cause any issues in terms of camber from what I understand.

     

    The factory trailing arms are the limiting factor in most lifts on Foresters as the higher you go, the more they pull the wheels towards the front of the car. That's why the guys with lift ktis made in Aus/the States get spacers for them. So you might notice your back wheels are closer to the front of the arch than they used to be, but in terms of camber I think you'll be fine.

    • Like 1
  4. 7 minutes ago, El_Chado said:

     

    Plus for any kind of suspension lift I think you'd technically need a cert? Not for the lift springs but for the strut spacer blocks.

    Yep, that's also putting me off going for the lift kit. Price of the kit landed in NZ (they come with strut top spacers, and trailing arm spacers for the 2-inch kit) is still cheaper than getting a cert last time I looked. Since most of my off roading is on the beach I'll probably go down the lifted springs route at this stage. If my 20G blows I might look at going all in though with an EZ30 conversion or something and then the lift kit will be worth the cost of the cert.

    • Like 1
  5. Nice, I take my T/TB SF5 off roading all the time. Mostly beach bashing in the dunes around Port Waikato to get to good fishing spots and forestry road gravel bashing, but have modded it out as a bit of an overlander. People definitely underestimate the capability of Subies off road. Foztrek on Facebook has a lot of like minded Forester bashers B|

     

    My CS build thread

    Most of my pics I've taken out bashing it around in the mud are on my Instagram

     

    I'm running Maxxis Bravo 771 All Terrains, strut tower braces front and rear (the rear tends to twist a lot on the dunes to the point the boot won't open/close), Pajero snorkel, LED spot lights, and seriously looking into whether I want to fork out for a Subie Lift Oz lift kit. Lifting with King Springs etc. reduces your articulation and messes with your spring rates so you lose comfort.

    • Like 1
  6. Hi all,

    I'm thinking about chucking an exhaust system on the DeForester and seem to remember GC/GF8 aftermarket exhausts pretty much bolt straight up. Is that true? 

    I've seen Redline performance advertising GC/GF8 turbo back exhausts for a reasonable amount of cash as well as SG5 versions. What's the go from your experience?

    If anyone has any recommendations for aftermarket exhausts for my SF5 turbo I'm all ears.

  7. Digging up an old thread but in the interest of having useful information readily available...

    The answer is easy enough you just need all the parts and it is plug and play. All the holes are already in the firewall so no need for cutting.

    You'll need:

    Manual Gearbox from a turbo Subaru with the same ratio as your rear diff (should be 4.444 from memory), clutch and flywheel in good condition.

    Clutch master cylinder

    Hydraulic clutch lines for the clutch

    Manual pedal box for brake and clutch - accelerator remains the same

    Manual Forester drive shaft

    Manual center console

    Gear knob

    It's a good idea to change all fluids at the same time to ensure your new box is in as healthy a state as possible.

    I may have written this up while procrastinating from actual work...

  8. Yup have looked at OzFoz / Forester.org and the it seems most of the kits they use have spacers for the trailing arms too. That said a lot of them don't come with them so it seems to depend on the kit and the amount of lift.

    Apparently if you lift more than 2 inches you start getting problems like those you mentioned and need more custom work like extending the steering and other fiddly bits- higher than I think I want to go.

  9.  D-Style said:
    Old Man Emu / King springs do a 1" lift for a Forester. Could get these via a local ARB agent.

    I have seen some other Aussie Subis with a 2" lift,But these were with parts sourced from US or Custom modified parts.

    I like the sound of this. From what I've seen so far there is nobody in NZ that engineers the strut tower spacers for them (this is how the Aussies/Yanks get a 2" lift and I'm wary of ordering bits from overseas)so I'm glad to hear I can get the springs at least here!

    Just bought shiny new thing #1 for the Mrs so Foz is next on the list! Might even be lucky enough to get it before FlatNats

  10. Hey all long time.

    Just wondering if anyone in the wider community has given their Forester a lift? I know, I know, probably the wrong crowd to be asking this too since most people tend to go lower rather than higher but figured I'd ask.

    Reason being I've been given the go-ahead by the boss to buy another SF5 (mainly to shut me up about ones on the motorway) for use as a fun weekend warrior/adventure camping car and after a bit of YouTubing I've come across some Aussies/Americans with 1"-2" lifts on their Foresters doing some amazing things.

    TL;DR Anyone lifted a Foz in NZ and know where I might get a kit to do so myself?

    Cheers,

  11. Hi Guys, This has probably been covered before but the CS search brought up nothing useful so here we go again!

    I\'m looking to get some rust repairs on my Project BC5 - it has the typical boot/under rear windscreen rust problem that I\'ll need to get fixed and I\'m keen to find out if anyone recommends a panel beater/rust repairer in the South Auckland area.

    I used to live on the shore and had a guy there but I don\'t want to have to transport Patient Zero (the car, it\'s a bit of a zombie) the 50kms across Auckland for him to look at it.

    So if you recommend a panel shop in South Auckland I\'d love to hear more about them.

    Cheers in advance

  12. Define what you mean by "heat up" it\'s a radiator, it\'s job involves heat.

    You can fine your engine number -or at least what it originally had on the built plate which should be on the passenger side strut tower in the engine bay.

    If it\'s been swapped to another engine working out which engine it is gets slightly more complicated.

    Hope that helps

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