kamineko
-
Posts
4,510 -
Joined
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Posts posted by kamineko
-
-
are the v2 sti heads any good? are the blocks forged like the RA?
any good compared to? its a wrx G head. i assume the sti 'light' hla buckets are better than the early version found in a v1/v2 wrx? the revlimit is about 7000
i would say no, the v2 sti shortblock is not closed, but mechanics/wreckers etc all say its a mixed bag. so check for the closed-deck hatched casting pattern. easily noticeable where the stater motor sits.
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?46155-Camshaft-Identification-INFO
-
lol thats a few different answers
they are quite likely to be V2 STI with the lightweight HLA buckets. if the heads are off, are the valves I252 / E283 ?
-
Work in progress, use this info at your own risk. Please donate pics or other useful information to help fill in the table. I should include head casting info in the future.
FRONT > means the > points to the cam pulley when reading the raised bumps, black dot is raised. 'R3' for example changes to 'L3' on the left hand side. R_ represents no number.
There are only 5 identification bands on the machined part of the cam shaft. Other bands further to the outside, non-machined part seem to designate the position of the cam e.g. Right/Intake.
[table=height: 30, class: border]
[tr][td]F[/td][td]R[/td][td]O[/td][td]N[/td][td]T[/td][td]»[/td][td]Cam[/td][td]Engine[/td][td]Type[/td][td]Year[/td][td]Model[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]Buckets[/td][td]u[/td][td]IN Valve[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]EX Valve[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]Valve Springs[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]verified[/td][td]z[/td][td]Intake[/td][td] [/td][td]Exhaust[/td][td]c[/td][td]Lift[/td][td]l[/td][td]Duration[/td][td]u[/td][td]Profile[/td][td]Part numbers[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][/tr]
[tr][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td].[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]Type[/td][td]Dia[/td][td]Mark[/td][td]Length[/td][td]Type[/td][td]Mark[/td][td]Length[/td][td]Type[/td][td]Paint[/td][td]Free length[/td][td]Tension[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td]BTDC[/td][td]ABDC[/td][td]BBDC[/td][td]ATDC[/td][td]Intake[/td][td]Exhaust[/td][td]Intake[/td][td]Exhaust[/td][td]Source[/td][td]RH IN 13032-[/td][td]RH EX 13035-[/td][td]LH IN 13038-[/td][td]LH EX 13053-[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]g[/td][td]R_[/td][td]EJ20G[/td][td]RS[/td][td]g[/td][td]BC[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]HYD Rocker[/td][td]n/a[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]?[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]●[/td][td]r[/td][td]R_[/td][td]EJ20G[/td][td]1st gen legacy?[/td][td]r[/td][td]BC[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]HYD Rocker[/td][td]n/a[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td]?[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]R2[/td][td]EJ20G[/td][td]WRX[/td][td]95 - 96[/td][td]GC8[/td][td]C1[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]HLA[/td][td]30mm[/td][td]z[/td][td]93.3[/td][td]solid[/td][td] [/td][td]93.6[/td][td]solid[/td][td]c[/td][td]39.8mm[/td][td]25kg[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]6[/td][td]56[/td][td]55[/td][td]11[/td][td]7.8[/td][td]7.8[/td][td]242[/td][td]246[/td][td]newsmook[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]b[/td][td]R3[/td][td]EJ20G[/td][td]WRX[/td][td]95 - 96[/td][td]GC8[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]HLA[/td][td]30mm[/td][td]I252?[/td][td]93.7[/td][td]solid[/td][td]E283?[/td][td]94[/td][td]solid[/td][td]n[/td][td]39.8mm[/td][td]25kg[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]6[/td][td]56[/td][td]55[/td][td]11[/td][td]7.8[/td][td]7.8[/td][td]242[/td][td]246[/td][td]newsmook[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]b[/td][td]R3[/td][td]EJ20G[/td][td]STI[/td][td]95 - 96[/td][td]GC8[/td][td]b[/td][td]V2[/td][td].[/td][td]light HLA[/td][td]30mm[/td][td]I252?[/td][td]93.7[/td][td]solid[/td][td]E283?[/td][td]94[/td][td]solid[/td][td]o[/td][td]39.8mm[/td][td]25kg[/td][td]EJ20GDW5PE[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]●[/td][td]●[/td][td].[/td][td]R3[/td][td]EJ20G[/td][td]STI RA[/td][td]95[/td][td]GC8[/td][td]C2[/td][td]V2[/td][td]g[/td][td]shim under[/td][td]30mm[/td][td]INKO[/td][td]104.7[/td][td]hollow[/td][td]EXKO[/td][td]105[/td][td]sodium filled[/td][td]Green[/td][td]49mm[/td][td]26kg[/td][td]EJ20GDW5PJ[/td][td]yes[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]242[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td].[/td][td]R3[/td][td]EJ20D[/td][td]TS[/td][td]94[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td]HLA[/td][td]30mm[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]DOHC[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]b[/td][td]R3[/td][td]EJ20H[/td][td]GT[/td][td]94[/td][td]BG5[/td][td]A[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td]HLA[/td][td]30mm[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]Red[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]b[/td][td]R4[/td][td]EJ20G[/td][td]WRX[/td][td]97 - 98[/td][td]GF8[/td][td]D[/td][td]V3[/td][td]b[/td][td]shim over[/td][td]33mm?[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]WRX AT and Wagon [/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]8[/td][td]52[/td][td]52[/td][td]8[/td][td]8.1[/td][td]8.1[/td][td]240[/td][td]240[/td][td]newsmook[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]u[/td][td]R4[/td][td]EJ20K[/td][td]STI[/td][td]97 - 98[/td][td]GC8[/td][td]D[/td][td]V3[/td][td]o[/td][td]shim under[/td][td]33mm[/td][td]IH[/td][td]r[/td][td]hollow[/td][td]EH[/td][td]g[/td][td]sodium filled[/td][td]White[/td][td]56mm[/td][td]28kg[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td]10[/td][td]56[/td][td]56[/td][td]12[/td][td]8.2[/td][td]8.3[/td][td]246[/td][td]248[/td][td]newsmook[/td][td]AA390[/td][td]AA390[/td][td]AA390[/td][td]AA390[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]n[/td][td]R4[/td][td]EJ20R[/td][td]GTB[/td][td]96[/td][td]BG5[/td][td]B[/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]shim over[/td][td]33mm[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td]10[/td][td]56[/td][td]56[/td][td]12[/td][td]8.2[/td][td]8.3[/td][td]246[/td][td]248[/td][td] [/td][td]AA390[/td][td]AA390[/td][td]AA390[/td][td]AA390[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]z[/td][td]R4[/td][td]EJ20K[/td][td]STI[/td][td]98[/td][td]GC8[/td][td]E[/td][td]V4[/td][td]l[/td][td]shim under[/td][td]33mm[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]hollow[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]sodium filled[/td][td]b[/td][td]56mm[/td][td]28kg[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]9[/td][td]53[/td][td]58[/td][td]10[/td][td]8[/td][td]8.3[/td][td]242[/td][td]248[/td][td]newsmook[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][/tr]
[tr][td]●[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]●[/td][td]n[/td][td]R_[/td][td]EJ207[/td][td]STI[/td][td]n[/td][td]GC8[/td][td]G[/td][td]V6[/td][td]l[/td][td]shim under[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]hollow[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]sodium filled[/td][td].[/td][td]56mm[/td][td]28kg[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td]9[/td][td]53[/td][td]58[/td][td]10[/td][td]8[/td][td]8.3[/td][td]242[/td][td]248[/td][td]newsmook[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]z[/td][td]R_[/td][td]EJ208[/td][td]GTB[/td][td]2000[/td][td]BH5[/td][td]B[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]shim over[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]n[/td][td]R_[/td][td]EJ206[/td][td]GTB AT[/td][td]2001[/td][td]BH5[/td][td]D[/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]shim over[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][/tr]
[tr][td]o[/td][td]●[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td]o[/td][td].[/td][td]R_[/td][td]EJ205[/td][td]WRX [/td][td].[/td][td]GD[/td][td]A[/td][td]V7[/td][td]c[/td][td]solid shimless[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]o[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][td]z[/td][td] [/td][td]c[/td][td]l[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td]s[/td][td]u[/td][td]b[/td][td].[/td][td]r[/td][td]g[/td][td].[/td][td]n[/td][/tr]
[/table]
-
Ive been compiling cam ident info for years. Will be posting it up in the holidays next week
-
Replace clutch, ruin, repeat.
haha
here's a handy single turbo legacy clutch change DIY I prepared earlier
http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?45788-Clutch-change-pictorial
-
Just a big + wire, then a short ground to a well prepared ground in the boot.
The factory ground connection just goes to the chassis/body anyway.
35mm welding cable is a good option, as it's double insulated compared to audio stuff.
If you're going to do it properly you should really have a big fuse or circuit breaker at the battery as well - I'd go with something like a 250A resettable breaker - a lot of people don't bother, but electrical fires suck balls.
Isn't the 'factory ground connection' also strapped to the engine via a large conductor bolted to the starter motor? Personally I would continue the negative battery line to that point. In the setup above, what was the voltage drop through the chassis during cranking?
-
You would expect the engine/gearbox to separate a little before the clutch fork would cause a problem. I'm sure all #? bolts are undone on the housing so its probably just stuck. I would spray some penetrant around the dowels and carefully start hammering at the seam with something sharp... advice on doing that gets a bit dodgy lol I don't want you to #$%% something on my account. I'm sure you've tried most things already which is why confused ??
You'd be surprised how much difference putting a jack under the front of the engine to lift the front up makes. I'm fairly confident (if you've not got it off already) that doing so will let it come out nice and easy.Good point. Are you supporting both the engine and gearbox?
-
whip out the cam & crank sensors and see if they're clean? no logged cel?
-
Took some snaps of the important bits if you're attempting a turbo clutch change for the first time. Or if you're stuck on the release bearing part
Car details: BG5B manual / single turbo
But most of this is relevant to a turbo manual
I am installing a 225mm clutch kit (early WRX / 1st gen turbo legacy). Clutch Pro KSU23005 from BNT. The kit included a new friction plate / pressure plate / release bearing / spigot bearing
96'+ 5MT Turbo spec is actually 230mm. Will follow up in a few months with how this goes.
Get the car up on jack stands. It would help to raise the rear a little also, you need to get to the diff/muffler. Be safe!
Remove battery, intercooler, starter motor
Remove clutch fork pin bung (10mm hex)
Pull out the clutch fork pin with some kind of hook, or if too tight, I think its a M4 thread
Once the pin is removed, remove the clutch fork spring, then pull the fork upwards to disengage from the release bearing (see pic of new bearing below to understand what you are doing here)
Punch the pins out from the gearbox diff stubs (yup, my stub seals are leaking a bit)
CRC or otherwise the lower hub knuckles, remove that wet looking bolt, and a bolt from each of the swaybar links
Pull/lever front arm downwards to disengage from the hub. Hub can now be pulled away from the car, allowing driveshafts to become free of the gearbox
Take care not to damage the lower ball joint rubber boot.
Now is a great time to remove the downpipe, and exhaust system
Remove the rear diff carrier cover
Mark orientation of the drive-shaft to rear diff
Unbolt drive shaft from rear diff. You may need to lift the rear of the car to rotate a rear wheel.
Unbolt central driveshaft bearing mount (not pictured). Remove driveshaft. It will simply pull out of the gearbox.
Undo the gearshift linkages (or punch the pin, whatever you find easier) This is probably much easier after the gearbox carrier frame is removed
Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder, don't undo the lines. Unbolt the gearbox top mount/hanger and unplug the gearbox electrical connections
DO NOT PUMP CLUTCH PEDAL! That would go terribly while the slave is unloaded.
Use some method to support the engine, as it will want to roll towards to radiator when not bolted to a supported gearbox.
Raising the front of the engine a little also helps the removal / re-install of the gearbox. Don't go overboard, as you could possibly damage the engine mounts.
Use some method to support the gearbox. A solid trolley jack, with some strapping for security works well for me. Where I've secured it is about the balance point of the gearbox.
Remove the gearbox supporting frame
Remove the remaining nuts/bolts from the gearbox bell housing.
Separate the Gearbox from the engine. You may need to pry evenly. Sometimes the dowels get a bit stuck.
Pull the gearbox away from the engine until the input shaft clears the clutch.
Slowly drop the gearbox while pulling away from the engine. Once down, pull it further back to make room for yourself
Note that if the gearbox is not kept level, transmission oil can leak from the rear while the driveshaft is removed.
This is what you might expect to find if you have a factory 230mm clutch. Pay attention to where any oil leaks are coming from. Prime suspects are the kidney plate / rear oil seal and gearbox input shaft oil seal
Nice, dry, no internal oil leaks. (I had repaired a kidney plate leak about 20K ago. See the shiny cleaned area? If that's oily then the kidney plate is the likely culprit)
Removal of clutch pressure plate and friction plate will leave you with a flywheel
Removal of flywheel will expose the crankshaft rear seal, and kidney plate as mentioned above. If this area is oily, now is the time to fix it. That metal plate is an uprated part that supersedes the earlier black plastic version.
Remove the release bearing is by separating it from the bird-cage thing like so. Just pulling the bearing is exactly what happens when you operate the clutch normally, it will not come out.
Once unlocked from the birdcage, very little effort is required to remove.
Get your flywheel machined. (Different flywheel pictured, I changed to a lightweight one)
Install a new Spigot bearing. Lightly tap it in flush with the front surface of the flywheel. Tap only against the outer metal ring of the bearing using a suitable socket. Don't tap it in further than flush, the crank mating surface locates into that gap.
Install the fresh flywheel. Torque to 52.8 ft. lbs. +/-2
Brakeclean the flywheel surface
Use a clutch alignment tool to fit the new friction plate
Pay attention to the 'Gearbox side' orientation note on the friction plate itself
Brakeclean the pressure plate surface
Important! Fit the pressure plate loosely, and using the alignment tool, wiggle the friction plate so its dead centre (see picture. Just using the tool will not guarantee alignment, as the weight of the friction plate drags it down)
Tighten pressure plate evenly (star pattern etc to prevent deforming the plate) to 11.6 ft. lbs. +/-1
Clean, lightly re-grease the gearbox sleeve, release bearing hooks and the clutch fork pin assembly
Very lightly grease the gearbox shaft to aid installation. Excess grease will be thrown at your clutch surface during operation.
Assemble like so
Secure the clutch fork forward before moving the gearbox
Now the fun part -reinstall the gearbox. If the angle of the engine hasn't changed, and the gearbox is still on the jack as it came off, this shouldn't be too painful.
Carefully re-align using the bottom stubs but make sure the gearbox is perfectly in line with the engine on approach.
If the gearbox is grating on the thread of the bottom bolts that's an indication of wrong angle.
Once the gearbox is close to engaging, the input shaft will protrude through the clutch and into the spigot bearing. At this point you may require some wiggling from the back of the gearbox.
There is a chance the spines are not in line, you can put the gearbox into gear and rotate the diff stubs or output shaft by hand a little to assist.
Mind the bottom dust cover (engine side) does not catch on the bottom of the gearbox housing.
Mind the clutch fork arm does not catch the parts on the firewall.
Mind the gearshift assembly does not catch or get caught at the rear of the gearbox.
The engine dowels may prevent you pushing the gearbox in by hand. If the gap is even all the way around the bell housing, I carefully wind in a top mounting bolt and judge by low torque if it is safe to bring it together.
Once you have bolted the gearbox back together, Its time to engage the release bearing onto the pressure plate.
Push the clutch fork arm towards the firewall. There should be a mechanical click as it engages.
Pull the arm away from the firewall. It should move slightly, then become firm as you are trying to manually release the clutch.
Put everything back in more or less the reverse order.
-Remove whatever engine support you used before doing up the top gearbox mount/hanger
-Install the clutch fork pin bung and clutch slave cylinder before fitting the starter motor
-Don't forget the clutch fork spring. Or the main earth on the starter motor. Or anything else you pulled off!
-Clean the Section of drive shaft that slides into the gearbox. Take care not to damage the gearbox rear seal.
-The DOJ (inner 'CV') need to be located onto the gearbox stubs at one rotational position only, where the pin holes line up perfectly. (The other possible orientation is almost there, you don't want to hammer the pins through that )
-Use coppercoat or antiseize on turbo nuts. Don't re-use damaged turbo nuts, that's just nasty. If you do have to replace, use the same hardened type.
-If you used CRC etc around the brake rotors, clean them with Brakeclean
-Test clutch pedal
-Test that the new clutch can stall the car
-Take it easy on your new clutch, follow whatever bedding in procedure is relevant to your new parts.
-
there are lots of conversion and electrical info posts. PM'd
-
yup i just changed mine. if they are leaking, won't you be able to see oil seeping out of the bottom of the valve guide? assuming the exhaust valves have a higher chance of leaking
-
I may be wrong here, and I expect someone more knowledgeable to chime in - but would it be a good idea to remove the extractors and shine a torch up into the exhaust ports to see if one of the valves are leaking to confirm that diagnosis?
I don't know anything about D-tech, but if you told them the same story I wonder why they checked the fuel pressure before looking for an electrical problem?
-
sounds consistent with limp mode due to knock or overboost. do you use 98 or 95 fuel?
-
kamineko']so..
plugs....OK
coils....swapped OK
ignitior...have you removed a spark plug, stuck it into the plugged in coil, earthed the base of the spark plug on the engine while cranking, to check for good spark as Rossub suggested? (protip, also unplug injectors on cylinders missing a spark plug or fuel mist will be sprayed around)
assuming no spark from either cylinder,
assuming ignitor is OK because you're using a known good one
-> check wiring from coil to ignitor
-> check wiring from ECU to ignitor
-> check ECU
More suggestions? From what i can tell, you made it to checking the spark plug ? What about the other checks? Where, when and how exactly are you measuring 2 Volts?Seems to be electrical, and there's no shame admitting you don't have experience in that field. Its going to be less stressful finding someone clued up to look at it
[quote name='rtstk1 said:
Actually no I replaced spark plugs with new 1s. then removed them with the coil and tried it up against the block like suggested and there was a spark but was very weak. I also swapped coils with the ones from the opposite side to see if there was any change and there wasn't. Still no difference in revs when unplugging while running compared to the other side. I'm obviously not clued up in that side of things which is why I asked if there is anyone in Auckland that could come and have a look. And the 2v was found using a multi meter While coil was unplugged and runningYou seem to have miss-interpreted my posts. I've made a list of what you said you tried, with suggestions what to check next. Apart from finding a weak spark, and 2V somewhere It's not clear where you're at.
Nevermind. Anyway. I came across this in my travels and thought of your problem. url]http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?40806-Virtually-no-pulse-feed-from-computer-to-ignitor[/url]
You have checked for CEL codes aye?
-
The first post is not a reply ;p
-
Well this is the 5000th reply in this thread. Its great that people are getting help, but a darn shame that the culture that created this thread in the first place still exists.
I'll be asking the Com to consider closing this thread. Clubsubers shouldn't be scared to post a new thread with a question. Sure, if the question has been asked/answered 50 times already then you might attract some negativity however I admit it's not been that easy to find/search things lately... (forever)
Having a whole bunch of useful info jammed into one post isn't helping either.
Hopefully this will change shortly. We are putting quite some effort into restructuring the technical boards, with a large collection of FAQ's and links, that should hopefully satisfy most of your 'dumb' questions and more.
-
so..
plugs....OK
coils....swapped OK
ignitior...have you removed a spark plug, stuck it into the plugged in coil, earthed the base of the spark plug on the engine while cranking, to check for good spark as Rossub suggested? (protip, also unplug injectors on cylinders missing a spark plug or fuel mist will be sprayed around)
assuming no spark from either cylinder,
assuming ignitor is OK because you're using a known good one
-> check wiring from coil to ignitor
-> check wiring from ECU to ignitor
-> check ECU
More suggestions? From what i can tell, you made it to checking the spark plug ? What about the other checks? Where, when and how exactly are you measuring 2 Volts?
Seems to be electrical, and there's no shame admitting you don't have experience in that field. Its going to be less stressful finding someone clued up to look at it
-
Not a camera guy, but LOL
-
Leader board is back in service. Fire away
It is likely we will extend the length of the board to accommodate all who post legit dyno results -
-
Yeah there is a ground wire from firewall to the gearbox that's used for the neutral/reverse switch circuits. Assume your speedo is plugged in and working ok? That also causes terrible running. Checking what cel is logged might point you in the right direction
-
Sounds electrical related..
Its pretty common to miss one of the earths on reinstall of gearbox/engine, double check all plugs etc?
-
black or darker plug is always to the rear of the engine for spark and injectors eh?
'92 EJ20G
-
so..
plugs....OK
coils....swapped OK
ignitior...have you removed a spark plug, stuck it into the plugged in coil, earthed the base of the spark plug on the engine while cranking, to check for good spark as Rossub suggested? (protip, also unplug injectors on cylinders missing a spark plug or fuel mist will be sprayed around)
assuming no spark from either cylinder,
assuming ignitor is OK because you're using a known good one
-> check wiring from coil to ignitor
-> check wiring from ECU to ignitor
-> check ECU
-
Who's Online 1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 172 Guests (See full list)
Boost loss issue (EJ20G)
in Engine Related
Posted
what turbo downpipe do you have? i've had an issue where the wastegate flap was jamming open on the siamese divider of a 3" aftermarket downpipe. took ages to diagnose that..
in case you have an aftermarket downpipe, try removing the circlip, disconnecting the actuator arm from the turbo and check the wastegate arm for bind by hand